Riggodeaux

So I changed the plugs on my almost new to me 2014 5.0 XLT 4wd at 90k miles [late, I know], discovering that the heads of the bolts holding the ignition coils [and the valve covers grommet bolts] were pretty rusty. One 8mm head Ignition coil bolt head snapped [passenger, RH side, second from front, so easy to reach], but extracting the bolt has tested the limits of my shade-tree mechanic skills. The local Ford dealer's solution is to replace the valve cover [part no.EL3Z-6582-C] rather than extract the bolt. If I can't get a local indy to extract the skinny bolt, I'm considering doing the valve cover & gasket replacement myself.

The first question: what are all the bolts needed for the valve cover? My research shows at least eight grommets [top and bottom], current part no. appears to be 6E5Z-6C519-CA, plus one? on either end of the valve cover that may be different. Some diagrams show these as HB1 and HB2; the parts diagrams are not very helpful, and I don't see a good DIY on youtube. Can anyone give me some guidance on the proper part nos. for that and any tricks for this task [the grommet bolt head sizes, given the rust, are a bit tricky: 3.8ths six point, or maybe 11-12mm?]

Second question: Ford Performance Parts sells a flashy aluminum valve covers set, M-6067-M52S, plus a six studs set needed to mount in the F150. It appears to be a vanity/appearance product for the Mustang set, though pitched as 'reducing valve cover heat.' Does it provide any real performance/longevity value? The price, via Summit, is not unreasonable.

Thanks in advance for any advice/help.

[F2C]MaDMaXX

Did you ever do this with the alu covers?

Riggodeaux

Nope. Looks like a lovely appearance product, though. I'm driving the truck with the one bolt head missing, will try again on the extractor when I next do service [oil change]. Off topic, but my wife luvs the new Bronco. I'm hoping they'll drop a V8 into it with that cool 7 speed manual tranny - not likely

SALEEN961

iTrader: (1)

I'm still waiting for a V8 Ranger, we're both waiting for something that will never happen lol. It's a shame I'm not a Mopar guy, they're dropping V8s and superchargers in everything.

StraightCase

I know this is a somewhat old thread, but how did it turn out OP?

I am going through a similar mess right now. 2013 5.0 Coyote.

I sheared off the ignition coil bolts on cylinders 2, 6, and 7 and broke the coil itself prying it off of the #2 plug. Also, all of my bolts running along the bottom of the valve cover are rusted to where it looks like you can peel layers off like an onion. I can just picture them now when I go to remove them clicking right off in the head. Currently waiting on parts to arrive.

For the sake of reference material for others in a similar predicament as of right now what you need to replace both valve covers are:

EL3Z-6582-C (valve cover)
KR3Z-6582-B (valve cover)
FL3Z-6750-D (dip stick)
FL3Z-6754-C (dip stick tube)

It seems Ford changed up the dipstick arrangements somehow and is requiring a different tube and longer dipstick if you use the new style valve cover.

Hope this helps anyone searching the forum. There has to be more than just a few others in the same boat.

2011_aka_Ticky

I think there's several of us rolling with busted bolts without issues. I sheared off #3 and #7, directly across from each other and had to drill out the threading on #7 two years ago. Both went back on fine and I could feel the boot "seat" onto the top of the spark plugs, no issues.

2011_aka_Ticky

And now there's a fix:

Riggodeaux

That's a fix! Macaloco [sp] is a good source. I tried a screw extractor, no go, and was considering another option, getting a spot weld on the broken bolt to give some purchase. Given that its a plastic valve cover with a brass fitting, this makes sense.

delaware74b

I found out about the coil bolts breaking last summer on my '13, cylinder #2. After that one broke off at the head, I broke out the PB, soaked the *&*& out of the bolts, top and under the coil. I let them soak for an hour while i hammered on the stub and got it out with vise-grips. I used my cordless 1/4" impact on the remaining bolts. Chased all the inserts with PB and compressed air. Replaced all bolts with stainless M5x25 button head hex bolts with anti-seize.

mwood

What is "PB?"