Serious Pull to the Right...
11-08-2011, 12:27 AM
#12
Cockpit Magician
Thread Starter
Tyler, I actually purchased UCAs with new ball points already in them so I don't have to worry about doing them. It sounds like this job won't be too bad vs the $1500 estimate from firestone. jeez.
11-08-2011, 12:38 AM
#13
Yea I just consider myself pritty good with balk joints since the first time I did them I did it right 
listen to a7x he really knows what he's talking about I ask him for advice all the time I probably annoy the hell out of him asking so much :P
listen to a7x he really knows what he's talking about I ask him for advice all the time I probably annoy the hell out of him asking so much :P
11-08-2011, 08:10 AM
#15
Senior Member
Haha, thanks guys, Tyler you ain't buggin me! Lol, hell if everyone lived closer I'd tell ya to come on over and I'd help you all out! and show ya how to do it too, I wish I made YouTube vids every time I worked on a truck, it'd be much easier to explain that way but I try my best typing on my phone haha
Lower ball joints ain't bad, sometimes one side'll take me an hour on one of these trucks, sometimes it'll take me 30min, it's all about how easily things come apart... Same usually goes for most every unbolt/bolt in application... If it comes apart easily your golden, if not, well once you get it apart you'll be cruisin haha
If ya don't have air tools, put your socket on there and tap it around with a2lb sledge to get things apart a little quicker, this is if ya don't mind replacing your ratchet every once in a great while...
If somethings really frozen, use a six point socket instead of stripping the bolt with a 12 point...
Also don't be afraid to use heat (where it applies, away from fuel lines, rubber if you plan on keeping it), even a cheap map gas torch can be your best friend to melt some lock tight or beak/expand a joint welded with rust...
If ya ain't keepin it, you can cut it, heat it, beat it, cut the rubber off to heat it without starting fire... Etc.
Any questions, feel free to ask!
Lower ball joints ain't bad, sometimes one side'll take me an hour on one of these trucks, sometimes it'll take me 30min, it's all about how easily things come apart... Same usually goes for most every unbolt/bolt in application... If it comes apart easily your golden, if not, well once you get it apart you'll be cruisin haha
If ya don't have air tools, put your socket on there and tap it around with a2lb sledge to get things apart a little quicker, this is if ya don't mind replacing your ratchet every once in a great while...
If somethings really frozen, use a six point socket instead of stripping the bolt with a 12 point...
Also don't be afraid to use heat (where it applies, away from fuel lines, rubber if you plan on keeping it), even a cheap map gas torch can be your best friend to melt some lock tight or beak/expand a joint welded with rust...
If ya ain't keepin it, you can cut it, heat it, beat it, cut the rubber off to heat it without starting fire... Etc.
Any questions, feel free to ask!
11-19-2011, 09:46 AM
#16
Cockpit Magician
Thread Starter
Howdy guys. Just to update you on my truck., I ended up replacing my front rotors (warped) and idler arm and now my truck rides just fine. I can tell that in the future I am gonna need to replace my bushings in my CA's but other than that, its running strong and straight. Thanks for all the info, I will definitely use it down the line.
11-19-2011, 09:56 AM
#17
Senior Member
Originally Posted by oldfloyd
Howdy guys. Just to update you on my truck., I ended up replacing my front rotors (warped) and idler arm and now my truck rides just fine. I can tell that in the future I am gonna need to replace my bushings in my CA's but other than that, its running strong and straight. Thanks for all the info, I will definitely use it down the line.
nice job! And ya saved some $$$!