So it’s time for news brakes. They could go longer, but I’ve got a 1000 mile camping trip, through very steep mountains, and with a lot of weight in calming gear.

so I’m just going to get them done now. My question is, what pads and rotors should I go with? I mean, I don’t want to spend a fortune, but I want good stopping power.

I went to rock auto and noticed they have the daily driver parts in stock. But the premium parts kits where all out of stock. And the heavy duty was in stock. It was around $440 which…..I mean I’ll pay (just for the front parts) I if it’s REALLY a noticeable difference in stopping.

EDIT: how is this kit? It looks like all four rotors and pads would be around $350 =SUBMODEL|Lariat]Brake kit

also, I noticed a couple of thousand miles ago that the boot on my drivers side half shaft was ripped and all out most of the grease was gone. So I’m assuming it needs to be replaced.

is it a tough job? Should I do it while I’ve got the rotor off?

 

The brakes and axle work are unrelated. Sort of.

Brakes are easy, if you done them a few times before. To get to the axle you will need to remove the brake assembly again but give it is not a challenge, you could do the jobs separately, if you are going to continue driving until your trip. If you are keeping it out of service to perform the repairs, doing them both at the same time isn't a bad idea.

I don't have anything to add about replacing axles -Have not done the work to understand the complexity.
@[F2C]MaDMaXX has replaced an axle, I think.

I would not have any quams about replacing brakes with the OEM replacement parts. I found a set of AC Delco pads on Amazon for a good cost. I slapped those on my 90,000 mile truck (GM truck) a few years ago when the pads were wearing down. My factory rotors were still perfect.
Some say the Powerstop system is equal or better than Ford but it is difficult to determine because people usually say how crappy the Ford brakes are, but that's also when they are worn out. Most any new brake will be superior to glazed, heat cracked, thin pads that are being replaced. The rest test is to brake in the new pads from a new truck, then replace them with aftermarket to make a claim how superior they are. Some have done that with good results. The point is that it is difficult to say 6 years later that the junk feel is the same it was 6 years previous.

But if the cost is similar or equal, I'd get a good mid tier level of the aftermarket, otherwise stick with what you know has worked for you through the years. Stay away from the economy parts from any manufacturer. Especially if you tow. No need to go with an absolute high end unless you're towing heavy all the time.

 

You usually don't need to replace the discs, though you don't say how many miles you've done - unless they're below the min thickness, i would just get some new pads and be done, flush your fluid if you've never done it especially as you're going to be asking more of your brakes on the trip. I keep seeing Wagner Thermoquiets being touted for pads, my current are Akebonos and have been working fine including a towing trip.

I've replaced the front axle on my 12th gen, non idea what changes (if any) there are on your 10th gen, it's otherwise simple, you don't need a slide hammer in most cases, straight forward replacement.

 

I haven’t actually checked the rotor thickness, but I’ve got 248,000 miles, and it hasn’t been changed in quite some time lol.

I figured if I’m doing the work already, I might as well change the rotors. It seems like it’s only a couple of hundred bucks more, so I figure why not.

the cv score isn’t making noises. But the truck has had perfect alignment, and all of a sudden it started pulling to the driver side. Even through a couple of tire rotations.

I’m pretty ignorant to this stuff, but a part of me wonders if the reason is the cv shaft is starting to….bind? Maybe? Or the lack of line is creating more friction which, in turn, is making it pull to the drivers side?

I don’t know. Either way, it’s got to be changed.

 

A freshly turned Ford rotor has good odds of being better than a new aftermarket rotor. And, even better, cheaper. My local Napa store still had a guy that knew how to run the machine. Only took a few hours, no need to change bearings, ended up with essentially a brand new Ford rotor.

 

I just got my rotors checked. They are hosed lol. So I called up the Ford dealer and they want $100 a piece for all 4 of them.

but then I see them online for around $55 a piece(Motorcraft). Is there a reason for that? And when I go to certain sites they ask a million questions like is my truck 7700GVW or is it 7700GVWR and a million other questions.

 

Probably just dealership costs.

Sparkplugs run about $14 at the Ford parts counter vs. around $7 at AutoZone for the same MotorCraft plug.

 

Ok, I found motorcraft rotors for $230 (all 4) online, and I decided to go with Bendix severe duty fleet semi metallic pads since I put a lot of weight in the truck when we go camping and we regularly go into the Arizona and California mountains when we go camping.

I really liked the black color of the severe duty Bendix rotors but I couldn’t find them with five lugs anywhere. Oh well.

 

You should be looking for ceramic pads for that use-case and remember semi metallic are a little loud as well as extremely hard on the discs.

 

Just don't do this...... https://www.reddit.com/r/IdiotsInCar...ots_in_garage/