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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Rear Window Seal

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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 11:09 PM
  #1  
jb451's Avatar
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Mo' parts, Mo' problems.
 
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From: Mesquite, TX
Default Rear Window Seal

Whats up guys, i got an 01 Screw, my back window is leaking on the drivers side. I have the middle sliding window if that makes a difference. I think the gasket has fallen through, so now every time it rains, water gets through and gets the seats wet. Anybody know how to get those back windows off? I'm guessing i'll have to take half of the interior apart unfortunately. Thanks guys!
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 04:16 PM
  #2  
AFSOCSGT's Avatar
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From: Navarre FL
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I think there are nuts that are on the inside behind the panels. Yeah the P.O. of my truck sealed that window shut.
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #3  
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From: Pa
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http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ar-window.html

Follow this how-to.

Instead of using the caulk type sealer used in the link, buy a roll of butyl tape. The stuff in the tube is way too messy.

It's actually pretty easy to do. Did mine in a couple of hours on a warm day.
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #4  
Black '97 4x4's Avatar
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From: Salem, Or
Post Rear Window Leak

Yea i got some personal experience with that, couple days ago I looked at the back window and there was water drops just hanging there, inside. Water was dripping on the backseat from the window seal, so i took it too a glass repair shop and the problem they were very familiar with. They said 85 bucks replacement of the seal.. if it's the butyl seal. Now these 1997-2003 trucks have a common problem with the back window frame cracking and if its that, then it will be a 400$ replacement of the whole back window so i was praying that it wasn't the frame and it wasn't, luckily. And just fyi you can't get the stock mirror finish windows, or at least that's what they told me. And btw- no need to remove the backseat back rest ... they did it by just pulling the fabric back and revealing the nuts.. hope this helps some jb451
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #5  
schmanman's Avatar
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From: michigan
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That happened to me, the shop had to pull the rear window off and replace a gasket
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #6  
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From: Rockmart , Ga
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My frame is cracked. I got a replacement window from my local salvage shop for 79.50. Now I've just got to buy either butyl tape or window weld and for less than 100 its all fixed. If you can use a sockect wrench you can do this yourself a lot cheaper that any dealership or window shop will charge you.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 02:15 AM
  #7  
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From: Georgia
Question wanting to replace solid rear window with sliding in std. cab

Hi folks. I was reading this thread and saw something about the surround being different on different cabs. Are the bolts in the glass, or just the surround? As far as I know, a sliding window was not an option on a std. cab. Can I change it out?

Thanks.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 02:44 AM
  #8  
aloha_hawaii's Avatar
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Im in the process of doing my rear window. It was super hard for me to get the old sealer off it was so hard to come off! Then i took it off i found out that the plastic cracked i bought like 20 dollers worth of athesive to fix the crack and it didnt work. I also found a rust hole and i had to fix it. I painted the faded surround and i just found a rear window off craigslist. it will be going in tommrow. btw im using butyl tape bought at napa auto. good luck
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #9  
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From: Rockmart , Ga
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Butyl tape all the way! i tried to reseal mine with Window Weld from a caulk type tube and it leaked like a mug. So i called a automotive window specialist in town and he told me where i could get the butyl tape. He suggested the 5/16 butyl tape. I accidentally bouth 3/8 but its still works like a champ! Automated Car wash and crazy hard rain tested!

Also my truck origionally had a sliding window. When i went to the salvage yard to pick up a new window cause the above metioned specialist showed me where i had a few cracks in the frame of my sliding window, i found out that sliding windows were 100 and non sliders were 75 so i went with the nonsliding. All the bolts lined up perfectly. I think from what ive read is the you have to have a plastic surround from the same cabb style truck as yours cause they say on the inside of them "R" for reg and Super Cab for supercab.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:55 AM
  #10  
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From: Georgia
Question still confused about surround

I plan to put a slider in my std cab. I understand about using my own surround, and that one off an extended or super won't fit. Here's where I lost it on the "how to" video (which was great!):

What holds the glass into the surround while I'm putting it back on the truck? I see pics of adhesive on the face of the surround, but the glass is already in it. I see the comparison pics of the two surrounds (without glass) showing the differing bolt patterns. But-what holds/seals the glass into the surround?

Thanks.
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