My plan is to get regulator/motor/wiring from another F150.

Qutesion 1: Is GEM involved in power window for 1997? I searched this forum and found a post that indicates later year F150's need GEM re-programming. Is 97 simpler and plug-n-play?

Question 2: Can I salvage parts from any 97-03 F150 and Expedition?

 

The easiest way is to get the power regulators from a salvage yard and use this switch kit.

 

Thank you for the switch kit link. I didn't know it's available. By the way, Amazon also sells regulator/motor not much more than a junkyard. I paid $30 used. Amazon price is $43 brand new. I need to think twice about junkyard.

 

My local yard is $18.00 for a power regulator and they have 50% sales from time to time.
I made up a harness with fuse for my c3 battery pack to test motors when going to the yard.

 

This is a retarded question, but I need your advice.

According to Rockauto,
ACI 83151 fits Front Right F150 97-01 Extended Cab and Expedition 97-02, and
ACI 83153 fits Front Right F150 97-01 Regular Cab.
Is there a difference between reg cab and extended cab?

My junkyard pull was from a 00 Expedition. I have a 97 regular cab.

 

I found there is a difference between my 97 F150 Regular Cab and the donor 2000 Expedition. The difference is with the bar directly supporting the glass (marked red in the photo). The bolt holes on my 97 are about 1/2" closer. Remedy: use what came with my 97. The rest of the regulator just slides off the glass support bar. Other mounting holes are exact match.

One thing that I didn't pay attention to when I watched youtube videos was that the regulator was originally riveted. No fixed bolts or nuts. Bolts had to be inserted from the door cavity side. 4 green holes were easy. But 2 blue ones were pain in the neck because the motor was right behind. I used 1/2" long (2 ea) for the blue holes and 3/4" for the green holes. Size 12 or 1/4".

For those who will do this conversion or motor replacement, the first thing to do is to line up 2 blue bolts and the raised rib with holes. The rest is easy.

If you have a welder, weld bolts directly to the regulator, especially the blue holes. I glued mine with epoxy.

FYI: The motor takes 5-6 amps. Fuse the circuit accordingly if you are not using OEM wire harness.

 

We have limited number of junkyards. They don't compete against one another. No sale.

 

I have a related question. My door looks like. It has a power window regulator installed but doesn't have a switch. Has anyone installed factory switches in a base door like this? I was thinking about adding a switch somewhere on the dashboard, but if factory switches can be installed (physical fitness), I want to give it a try. Can the door panel be swapped out?

 

You would have to change the door panel to use the factory switches. But it won't have a place for your lock.

 

I was hoping someone dremel-ed the plain door and installed factory switches. Thank you for the advice.