I'm hoping someone here can steer me in the right direction. My son has a 1997 F-150. The truck has been sitting for close to 2 years with an occasional start up. He brought it to my house for a temporary storage and I decided to have a look at it. Ran really rough. I know he's already replaced one ignition coil. Anyway I saw his battery terminals were loose and corroded so I replaced them. Seeing as how any drop in 12v would translate to a voltage drop at the coil I drove the truck and it is much improved. Now to the windows. The power door lock and mirror switches work but neither the drivers or passengers switch will work. No sound at all when depressed. I pulled one of the relays and it has 4 terminals. 85&86 are the coil so I applied 12 volts and checked for continuity between the other 3 and only have it on terminals 87A & 87 when voltage is applied. There is a terminal #30 but I have no idea what it's purpose is and there is no continuity. Can I assume that since there is continuity between the 2 terminals that this relay is good? I'm perplexed because neither door switch works.
Any help would be much appreciated and I know I'll be back here as I continue to resuscitate this truck.

 

97 F-150 window problems. I have a 97 F-150 as well and for last year and a half I have been changing all sorts of part's trying to figure out why my passenger side window worked at both switches but caused dome light to go off with door open and driver's side window wouldn't roll down and when it pushed up button it made some light flash and acc relay click. Here's what I have learned. Number 1 test voltage across 85 & 86, #2 test voltage across 87 & 30 while pushing the button. Should both be 12 volt not less or more than 13.5. #3 pull the driver's side armrest bezel up it just snaps in. Look for a large black wire spliced to several smaller blacks and run a jumper from ground under dash and use a needle to puncher the large black to test for a bad ground. #4 disconnect the battery for 1 he then hook it back up and drive it 10 miles so Generic Electronic Module aka body module that bolts to backside of interior fuse box can reset. #5 pull the door panel and unhook the grey connector under speaker that goes to the motor and run a temporary 12+ volt and ground and attach one to each lead of the motor if it works reverse them and see if it works opposite. # 6 check all fuse's in interior fuse box there are 3 or more that go to generic Electronic Module plus the ones for each power acc. Check all the fuses under the hood be careful cus there is a large fuse box on driver's side, a relay box either next to it or on fire wall and a very small 6 fuse box either sides ways next to relay on fender or next to large fuse box. Don't mess with mega fuse box next to battery. # 7 pull the driver's side window switch and test voltage on light blue with black stripe to ground on connector for driver's window. #8 check voltage on white with black stripe when pushing the button. #9 check voltage on all the rest with and without pushing the buttons. Same for passengers side tan with blue stripe goes from driver's side window switch to passengers side window switch at passengers door and other than with blue goes to gem module. #10 pull the cowl panel and wiper arm on driver's side and make sure it's clean inside not clogged up with leaves and such. #11 inspect the entire seam of windshield and silicone everything suspect of leaks like cracks in glass and anywhere u see bubbles in the seal, also silicone the top of windshield where the rain Channels are then run a small bead on top and both sides and on either side of the rubber trim. The reason for these last 2 steps is anything leaky or stopped up cowl drips directly on generic Electronic Module and interior fuse box. And shorts all the power equipment out first. If you find something at any of the previous steps replace that fuse, part, relay, window switchs. Piece of advice if window motors are bad replace the entire motor and regulator assembly otherwise it's a pain to adjust I suggest buying it from a1auto.com. #12 clean and use WD-40 on the window guide's. If you need parts don't buy just what say rockauto says fits pull your part and search Google for part number ebay, Amazon and a few other sites have better deals and quality equipment or oem used parts and look for eBay seller's with a 30-60 day return also Google how to videos and consult every related thread here and check out Sparkys Answers they had a wealth of information on the electrical components

 

97 F-150 window problems. I have a 97 F-150 as well and for last year and a half I have been changing all sorts of part's trying to figure out why my passenger side window worked at both switches but caused dome light to go off with door open and driver's side window wouldn't roll down and when it pushed up button it made some light flash and acc relay click. Here's what I have learned. Number 1 test voltage across 85 & 86, #2 test voltage across 87 & 30 while pushing the button. Should both be 12 volt not less or more than 13.5. #3 pull the driver's side armrest bezel up it just snaps in. Look for a large black wire spliced to several smaller blacks and run a jumper from ground under dash and use a needle to puncher the large black to test for a bad ground. #4 disconnect the battery for 1 he then hook it back up and drive it 10 miles so Generic Electronic Module aka body module that bolts to backside of interior fuse box can reset. #5 pull the door panel and unhook the grey connector under speaker that goes to the motor and run a temporary 12+ volt and ground and attach one to each lead of the motor if it works reverse them and see if it works opposite. # 6 check all fuse's in interior fuse box there are 3 or more that go to generic Electronic Module plus the ones for each power acc. Check all the fuses under the hood be careful cus there is a large fuse box on driver's side, a relay box either next to it or on fire wall and a very small 6 fuse box either sides ways next to relay on fender or next to large fuse box. Don't mess with mega fuse box next to battery. # 7 pull the driver's side window switch and test voltage on light blue with black stripe to ground on connector for driver's window. #8 check voltage on white with black stripe when pushing the button. #9 check voltage on all the rest with and without pushing the buttons. Same for passengers side tan with blue stripe goes from driver's side window switch to passengers side window switch at passengers door and other than with blue goes to gem module. #10 pull the cowl panel and wiper arm on driver's side and make sure it's clean inside not clogged up with leaves and such. #11 inspect the entire seam of windshield and silicone everything suspect of leaks like cracks in glass and anywhere u see bubbles in the seal, also silicone the top of windshield where the rain Channels are then run a small bead on top and both sides and on either side of the rubber trim. The reason for these last 2 steps is anything leaky or stopped up cowl drips directly on generic Electronic Module and interior fuse box. And shorts all the power equipment out first. If you find something at any of the previous steps replace that fuse, part, relay, window switchs. Piece of advice if window motors are bad replace the entire motor and regulator assembly otherwise it's a pain to adjust I suggest buying it from a1auto.com. #12 clean and use WD-40 on the window guide's. If you need parts don't buy just what say rockauto says fits pull your part and search Google for part number ebay, Amazon and a few other sites have better deals and quality equipment or oem used parts and look for eBay seller's with a 30-60 day return also Google how to videos and consult every related thread here and check out Sparkys Answers they had a wealth of information on the electrical components
Also there is a how to video sponsored by a1auto on how to change the window motor and assembly and generic Electronic Module which is same procedure for Interior fuse box is also on YouTube
Turned out after I did everything else but test the wiring harness for voltage and proper ground I had spent $600 in parts had a shop change just the motor then a year later the whole assembly y then I fixed my leaky windshield and changed all my parts with zero results that I had a ground that worked intermittent and progressively got worse until it just started the whole electrical Gremlins that pointed to faulty gem and/or interior fuse box due to leaky windshield that condensated with weather changes on inside of the window so much I kept a towel to wipe it off. All that and it was a busted ground that the shop I took it to when window worked but was sluggish and hung up, they damaged the ground and did a crappy job installing the motor. So when I took it back this year I tore it half apart and showed the shop owner why they pop rivot the assembly in place. They didn't even diagnose the whole problem and call me with an estimate. Needless to say I found a new mechanic

 

Well there goes my day off.... Thank you for all the detailed info. I will bench test the other relay and if good, start by making sure I have 12v at the fuse box going to it. If that is good then I'll start down the rabbit hole of electrical gremlins....

Thank you again Pegasus525.....

 

if you have power when you test 87 &
30 and constant power on 85 & 86 the gem is good. As you approach the testing I would test the switches and motors before you do much else then the cheapest one of all the ground test. I had no trouble peeling back the door jamb boot away from cab side and easily fished a wire back behind the e-brake thru inside boot and snagged it with my finger and then worked it thru jamb boot. Mind you though I was an electrician for 20 year's. Once I got it fished and spliced under the speaker and pulled the kick panel and door jamb kick skid both just snap in just be sure to start with bottom skid towards the front of the cab. Then with kick panel peel back the door seal first then pop it off at that edge and work it off the e brake. There is a big ground few inches off the floor behind that kick panel & another one behind the passengers side.. If you do tear into the gem/interior fuse box test, clean or replace the e brake contact switch because you'll have easy access. By the way I have a Master switch, driver's bezel, gem and fuse panel for sale for a 97 2wd w/ 4.6l, m/t, power everything and 4 & 7 pin trailer harness.
You'll need 7mm & 8 mm deep well and extension and rachet. If you go to gem/ fuse panel you'll need a 10mm deep well. If you try changing the window motor and regulator you'll need a special pop rivot gun to put back to spec's which I recommend because that way in future it can be just drilled out verses reaching inside with a wrench and doing it all by feel
Relays are like $3 each I changed all of mine figured 200k miles just spend the $12 and keep old ones for spares

 

Pegasus, did you fix your window problem?

 

Yep 1 1/2 years and 2 shop visits and countless hours of my own time and $600 in parts all for a $3 piece of wire and a butt splice. Ground was damaged but worked certain items. But I started with what I thought was a weak motor, then moved to whole assembly, and hen gem and interior fuse box cus I had a leaky windshield that condensated so much I kept a towel in truck. Then the master switch and bezel that got a crack from master switch being removed like 10 time's. Had the gem and fuse box out 5 time's trying to find the issue never thought about the ground cus it wasn't driver's side window ground that was issue it was main ground that went to everything else and caused everything to backfeed on unrelated systems

 

Update:
One of my favorite expressions is don't look a gift horse in the mouth. After bench testing both relays I put them back in the car and for s&#&s and giggles I tried the windows and they both worked. I grabbed the accordion hose in the door and manipulated it while opening and closing the windows to see if maybe a broken wire. I notified my son that his windows now work and he was thrilled. I can only assume that one or both relays were "stuck" and applying power several times they became "unstuck" I'm taking this as a win. I did test several of pegasus's items and they checked out. Much appreciate his invaluable help.
NOW.......on to why the third door will not open.

 

Relays about $3.50 each but I have 2 complete extra sets that I'll donate to you if you cover the shipping cost just email me if you are interested stuchell52569@gmail.com

 

That door uses cables to open. If like mine, the plastic ends have degraded and no longer work. Its a pain to get things opened up at first but you can buy replacement cables or cable ends.