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I dont know. Probably be a lot easier just unbolting the trans.
I like the blue.
While you have the radiator out, check down in each corner of the bracket, they are know to rust out down there.
They sell replacement brackets but you need to remove headlights bumper and other things to replace.
With all that removed the engine and trans would pull right out.
Got the harmonic balancer off, starter, bell housing bolts, and engine mounts removed. I think all that's left is the exhaust manifold which I'm going to hack off with a Sawzall.
With everything off the front, I think there will be ample space to slide the engine out.
Putting this thing back together is going to be hell. Some of these bolts make me wish I still drove a Honda.
I saw a video where the guy burns the bolts off, and afterwards the studs came out fairly easy with vise grips or an extractor tool after the manifold is off
Where your rubber bushings are down the bottom on the passenger side radiator mount for some reason rust faster then the other side. That is what I was saying in my other post.
After you take the engine out and clean up the engine compartment you ought to paint it all with a rust paint. Not cheap but works good, made to go over rust but I would clean it up before hand.
The engine wont lift out with the exhaust manifolds on?
I can't get the 2 bolts holding the manifold to the downpipe
This is a poor picture of where they are, next to the starter housing. I want to leave the manifolds in place since the engine removal points are attached to them.
Here I am with the engine removal. I can't get the engine to separate from the transmission to save my life. I unbolted both manifolds. I've removed all the bolts from the bell housing and the 4 from the flex plate. I have a regular floor jack under the transmission.
I can lift the engine up, swing it side to side, but they just won't budge.
The dowel pins were definitely seized into the block, I had to use two screwdrivers and a hammer to get behind the metal plate and work my way around till it let go. Very satisfying feeling when it finally went.
Took some negotiating with the exhaust manifolds and heater pipe to clear everything
The flex plate needs to be replaced. This truck has had 5 starters in the past 10 years and this is probably why.
I'll be tearing down the engine this week and making a plan. The engine still spins freely so hopefully no internal damage but I'll be checking and upgrading as I go.
I know the intake gasket is the main culprit and was upgraded on the 2001 4.2l. Is there any other upgrades I need to do to make this bulletproof?
There are some good 4.2 rebuild threads on the forum. Here's one. I think that the changes Ford made were efforts to make it "bullet-proof". Plastic intake manifold, etc. Not sure which parts swap year to year though.
Here's another thread that talks about a bad timing cover gasket as the reason for the coolant in the oil. Seems like you just need to make sure that you get new Ford gaskets, if possible.
