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Little update. Got the internals almost all together. Went with sealed power bearings to replace the ones I busted. I think all that's left is the oil return and the oil pan. Does anyone know what size the cam shaft woodruff key is? The new one didn't come with one and I can't get the old one out.
The heads are ready to go with new valve seals. I should have it together by the end of next week.
Looking good, You try a Ford dealer parts place? They should be able to get you a part # or the key itself.
You try a little heat on the old one?
You going to use the old plugs?
Got the bottom end all torqued together. Got the woodruff key out of the old camshaft with a nail set and hammer.
Put the heads on only to realize I didn't put the dowel pins in so the intake won't align properly.
Does anyone know the parts # for the cylinder dowel pins. I've called everywhere in the area and they don't sell them.
Also what Arp head bolt/stud kit works for this engine?i called their parts department but they say they don't make one.
Help! I got it back in and its all going down hill. I got it to start and idle but it killed when i put it in gear. It would rev up nicely and would return to idle. I let it idle for a while and it has good oil pressure according to the dash, it also had good temperature while it idled. I started messing with the cam shaft sensor and its gotten progressively worse. Any ideas?
Help! I got it back in and its all going down hill. I got it to start and idle but it killed when i put it in gear. It would rev up nicely and would return to idle. I let it idle for a while and it has good oil pressure according to the dash, it also had good temperature while it idled. I started messing with the cam shaft sensor and its gotten progressively worse. Any ideas?
Double check all the vacuum lines?
What trans is in it?
Can you use a code reader on that truck?
You do have the air inlet line to the throttle body hooked up, right?
The rebuilt engine is just a bit tight and the processor needs to relearn raw sensor data?
Run it for a while longer to get it broken in and loosened up
It will relearn idle speed and quit dying in gear tomorrow or after a few test drives most likely
Trust your work
I owe yall a drink, if youre ever down south during mardi gras let me know.
So I finally got the ***** to ask for help and one of my buddies came by. Hes the only person I trust to do good work. He determined my harmonic balancer was slipping so the timing marks were wrong. We put it in TDC by looking in cylinder 1. Got the ignition timing back in order with the little yellow tool and not the grey one. Its very confusing because the years overlap at 98 so one tool is 180⁰ different than the other.
Once that was in order, the starter I just bought 4 days ago, proceeded to break. I returned it and im on starter #9 in this god forsaken thing.
He showed me how to do a load test on a starter with a 2x4. Turns out if you can stop the bendix with a stick, its a broken starter. Any idea why the starters are always breaking? Its been about 1 starter per year since ive owned it in 2013.
I've got 3 hoses left to hook up but I cant figure them out. They are on the back of the upper intake manifold on the passenger side by the firewall. I cant find a diagram anywhere that shows it. I believe one goes to the bifurcated heater hose thing that comes out the water pump. The other two are mysterious. Ill try and get a picture of them later.
Your buddy is learned
That starter trick I also learned from jumpstreet
Try explaining that to the parts guys at Autozone or O Reilley
I did once, and they said they won't or can't do that during their bench test (chewing up the 2x4 to test the drive)
I put 5 starters on a Corvette I only owned for 4 years
A SD 302 Ford starter drive (Bendix spring) fits most old starters
Yours will be a different one. You could try to find a Ford starter drive and fix one of your starters that spins but zings out
Last edited by manicmechanic007; Feb 21, 2024 at 08:50 AM.
I owe yall a drink, if youre ever down south during mardi gras let me know.
So I finally got the ***** to ask for help and one of my buddies came by. Hes the only person I trust to do good work. He determined my harmonic balancer was slipping so the timing marks were wrong. We put it in TDC by looking in cylinder 1. Got the ignition timing back in order with the little yellow tool and not the grey one. Its very confusing because the years overlap at 98 so one tool is 180⁰ different than the other.
Once that was in order, the starter I just bought 4 days ago, proceeded to break. I returned it and im on starter #9 in this god forsaken thing.
He showed me how to do a load test on a starter with a 2x4. Turns out if you can stop the bendix with a stick, its a broken starter. Any idea why the starters are always breaking? Its been about 1 starter per year since ive owned it in 2013.
I've got 3 hoses left to hook up but I cant figure them out. They are on the back of the upper intake manifold on the passenger side by the firewall. I cant find a diagram anywhere that shows it. I believe one goes to the bifurcated heater hose thing that comes out the water pump. The other two are mysterious. Ill try and get a picture of them later.
The only diagram I have is for my 1999. For Vacuum hose.
I dont know if the 1998 is the same.
Well after nearly 2 years, it drove itself to AutoZone. Couldn't have done it without y'all. I figured out how the vacuum lines connect, it took that diagram and pausing videos to get a glimpse. I replaced the DPFE hose from the firewall to the throttle body with a garden hose for now. All in all it was meticulous and time consuming but sitting behind the wheel feels like second nature. It was a learning experience and finally moving a vehicle that i completely dismantled is a great feeling. I'll try to update this periodically. It still doesnt have full power in gear which ill narrow down in the next coming weeks. I hope this thread helps some person down the line!
