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Lower firewall radiator hose

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Old Aug 16, 2022 | 09:11 PM
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Default Passenger side firewall radiator hose

So I’m sitting in a parking lot waiting for the tow truck. The passenger radiator hose that goes through the firewall decided to break on me. Does anyone have a part number and maybe a link to a video on how hard of a job it is?

Thank you!

Last edited by Oh2supercrew; Aug 16, 2022 at 10:33 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2022 | 01:06 PM
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Well, if anyone has this problem this is what I did.

The actual hose didn’t start leaking, the quick connect/disconnect broke right where the nipple goes into the hose. Right where that metal is crimped on, presumably to act as a clamp.

So my initial thought, as you’d probably guess, was to just replace the hose. Well, it goes all the way to the back of the engine block and it’s a real pain to get the hose clamp off.

I noticed, on some YouTube videos, that sometimes there was an extension coming off of the inlet to the block making it much easier to remove/replace said hose.

Mine did not have that unfortunately. So instead this is what I did:

1. I ordered a new QD piece that goes in the house and makes the connection to the connection going through the firewall.

2. I inspected the hose for stiffness (that’s what she said heh), cracks, and the general overall health of it. Obviously I can’t be 100% sure but it appears to be solid.

3. I left the hose connected to the block. On the other end, where the QD piece broke, I cut off about 1 inch before the crimped on metal piece (which still had the nipple part of the broken QD piece in it.)

4. I put the new QD piece in and put a hose clamp on it. Reattached it and wha-la.

while it’s not a new hose and thus a full fledged fix per say, I wouldn’t quite classify it as a half assed fix either.

as always time will reveal which fix it really is lol.
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Old Aug 17, 2022 | 01:49 PM
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On numerous occasions ive warned people about those fittings when they get old. If one of them broke the other one is not far behind go ahead and replace it now.

Oh, and use motorcraft fittings only aftermarket have a reputation for leaking. Probably incorrect o-ring size or something.

If you buy the replacement motorcraft hose it has a motorcraft fitting on it that's held on with a clamp instead of being permanently crimped on it like the original hoses. That's a $60 way to get a motorcraft fitting if you don't want to order one from RockAuto or someplace for $5

People who just hose clamp it to the end of the heater core fitting have had their hoses blow off before.

And if your hose is anything like mine, the one with the restrictor in it is made of plastic and is in similar brittle shape. That hose is easy enough to replace though. The one connected to the heater pipe at the back of the engine can be a real bear to get off that pipe... In fact when I finally took my pipe out when I replaced my manifold I had to spend 10 minutes wrestling with it off the truck in order to get it free from the pipe. There's no way in hell it was coming loose on the truck.

Last edited by mbb; Aug 17, 2022 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2022 | 04:28 PM
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Default I think my hose is broken between the block and the QD.

How, on earth, can you get behind the block to replace that hose. I’m thinking of going to the junkyard just to see on a wreck how I might get to it. Surely, there’s got to be another way. At 64, my hands really have a tough time getting these things done. I have video, but files are over the 20mb limit.
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Old Nov 24, 2022 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wbmartin3
How, on earth, can you get behind the block to replace that hose. I’m thinking of going to the junkyard just to see on a wreck how I might get to it. Surely, there’s got to be another way. At 64, my hands really have a tough time getting these things done. I have video, but files are over the 20mb limit.
I know what you mean, why do they build crap like that?
what year what engine?
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Old Nov 24, 2022 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by wbmartin3
How, on earth, can you get behind the block to replace that hose. I’m thinking of going to the junkyard just to see on a wreck how I might get to it. Surely, there’s got to be another way. At 64, my hands really have a tough time getting these things done. I have video, but files are over the 20mb limit.
My clamp was turned so tool couldnt get on it. But anyway even if it could like I previously indicated it took me 10 to 15 minutes with it off the truck to get the hose unstuck from the metal tube after 16 years. No way it was coming off on the vehicle


Here's how you get it.... You remove the intake manifold. Thats the way. Seriously. Then the whole heater pipe and hose comes out. But most likely all you have to do is replace the fitting on the end of the hose not the whole hose

Last edited by mbb; Nov 24, 2022 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2022 | 07:35 PM
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Is this a V8 ? It was a little difficult removing the hose connected to the heater pipe, but I've repaired that by feel and reaching behind there in the past. The hose got soft at the connection...had to cut it back and reclamp it. Ford had a regular old worm clamp holding that together. Got it with a nut driver. PITA but doable.

The heater core connections at the top, that's a different story. I already had the intake off for a gasket R&R. Decided to replace those hoses while I was in there. Had the tool, but fought and fought those connectors before I had them removed. I didn't take many pics of that one, have some though, -





New hoses, no restrictor..^^^
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Old Dec 10, 2022 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mbb
On numerous occasions ive warned people about those fittings when they get old. If one of them broke the other one is not far behind go ahead and replace it now.

Oh, and use motorcraft fittings only aftermarket have a reputation for leaking. Probably incorrect o-ring size or something.

If you buy the replacement motorcraft hose it has a motorcraft fitting on it that's held on with a clamp instead of being permanently crimped on it like the original hoses. That's a $60 way to get a motorcraft fitting if you don't want to order one from RockAuto or someplace for $5

People who just hose clamp it to the end of the heater core fitting have had their hoses blow off before.

And if your hose is anything like mine, the one with the restrictor in it is made of plastic and is in similar brittle shape. That hose is easy enough to replace though. The one connected to the heater pipe at the back of the engine can be a real bear to get off that pipe... In fact when I finally took my pipe out when I replaced my manifold I had to spend 10 minutes wrestling with it off the truck in order to get it free from the pipe. There's no way in hell it was coming loose on the truck.
Did you have to remove the throttle body and the air intake manifold? How long should that take? Should I get new gaskets for the throttle body and air intake before I take them apart? What about pressing a new aluminum hose fitting into the engine block? I've seen photos that the aluminum hose gets pitted and eventually fails. My 2002 f-150 has about 275k miles on it, but has been running strong for a long time.
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Old Dec 12, 2022 | 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by wbmartin3
Did you have to remove the throttle body and the air intake manifold? How long should that take? Should I get new gaskets for the throttle body and air intake before I take them apart? What about pressing a new aluminum hose fitting into the engine block? I've seen photos that the aluminum hose gets pitted and eventually fails. My 2002 f-150 has about 275k miles on it, but has been running strong for a long time.
I bought a new hose from a dealer that was about 50 miles from me.....that was the closest one in stock.... And I needed it now. I did not want any flimsy aftermarket hose or cheap connector. I looked at one at the auto store and it was junk by compare to oem.

Then I just moved the fitting from the new hose to the old hose. I did not replace the whole hose until I did the intake manifold and had it off of the vehicle. I could not get that hose off that heater pipe behind the engine until the intake manifold was removed, and I removed the whole heater pipe too to change the o-rings where it goes into the water pump. I ended up replacing the whole heater pipe because mine had a kink in it.

Where that heater pipe goes into the back of the water pump is a common leak point after many many years probably because of corrosion of the steel pipe not sealing well with o-rings anymore.. or incorrect aftermarket o-rings.. $60 when have the opportunity is cheap insurance you never have to mess with it .


Last edited by mbb; Dec 12, 2022 at 05:50 AM.
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