There is a knock that I discovered about a week ago but didn't think anything of it and might of thought it would go away. But it didn't. When my truck sits at idle at operating temps., and then goes away when it's revved to 1000 RPM's but then comes back at idle again. -99 150 5.4- it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side valve cover.

(The rattle you here is the ac compressor, not worried about it right now since one it 15 degrees outside and two it's not that big of a deal)

If you need anything else just let me know, thanks.

Here is the video link:

 

Bottom end of the engine is shot. You need to stop running that before you really mess up the block. It's time for a bottom end rebuild at the least. Good luck. At least that is the hammering I heard at idle.

 

damn it, (if your dead serious) so probably rods, bearings, crank.

 

Dead serious. My old neighbor just bought a 5.4 in this condition and the mains and rods were history. The block needed extensive reworking also, so it's best to fix these before they break too badly.

A crank kit (rod brgs, main brgs and crankshaft) is the way to go with of course gaskets and seals. That would be the minimum. You'd be better off to do the whole motor rebuild so that you don't have the same problem repeat itself. It's better to pull it out and go completely thru the whole motor.

Get more opinions but I believe that most of the engine guys will agree that your motor is really needing rotating assembly repairs. Good luck.

 

Don't forget that if you rebuild this motor, to make sure that you get new timing components so that you dont have problems later.

 

Could I just machine the existing crank to save money if it's fixable? It's a 99 with 16x,xxx miles, my question now is would it be worth the rebuild or just sell it or what not?

 

Would this work- http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index...t_detail&p=718

Sounds like it does the main things, I don't think the valve-train would be necessary to worry about (like rockers, lifters, camshaft etc.)

 

Yes it would work fine, but you wouldn't be able to order until after your motor comes out and you figure out what you need for sizes. Some blocks will clean up with minimum work, others will take a more extensive rework. Once you get he motor apart, let the machine shop check the block. If you don't need much machine work, you can order whatever sizes are necessary and put it back together.

 

If you have the means but not the funds, you could get a crankshaft kit from crankshaft repair. 10 under crank, 10 over mains to make up the difference. Get new con rod bearings as well. Check clearances.