Originally Posted by tcrote5516

I can stand by a turd too...it would still be a turd. Instead I would rather put time into a well thought out and accurate response to the OP. Sorry if that got under your skin but your "advise" was just plain wrong and it seems as if every time someone calls you out you go on the offensive vs. taking a second to learn something new. Not a good trait but I will try to teach rather than argue... YOU STATED: "Mono is good for a sub as it can support lower impedance, typically down to 0 ohms." I'm assuming you are not saying low impedance is good for a sub as that would make zero sense. The sub is the load. Assuming you are talking about the amp that's also not true, in fact it's so wrong it's backwards. Amplifier impedance actually is decreased in bridged mode. A typical amp capable of operating at 4 ohms bridged will be stable at 2 ohms driven in stereo. This has to do with the amps power supplies ability to dissipate heat and push past that high resistance and when you bridge it your essentially doubling down on load but with the advantage of efficiency so resistance tolerance is reduced. YOU STATED: "when you say you have a 1200 watt sub and 600 watt amp. That sub would be severely underpowered and sound like garbage if you were talking rms. It's better to have an amp slightly over powered than a woofer way under powered. " You cannot "severely under power a sub" or any speaker for that matter. As I already explained, there is no risk involved with a subpar amp with the exception of pushing it past its limits into clipping. You can however overdrive them with an amplifier that is able to produce more power than the drivers voice coil can handle or; over time the drivers ability to dissipate heat generated. Sensitivity is the factor to pay attention to when sizing an amplifier that is at or below the drivers power handling ability. Important words there are: at or below. Sensitivity is a audio measurement that is basically a unit of power (1 watt) against a distance (usually 1 meter) to produce a volume level measured in decibels to tell you how efficient that driver will be at given power levels. YOU STATED: "For starters, you never speak in max watts as it's completely irrelevant to specing out hardware." Here we agree but even RMS is not bench marked from company to company so you need to use common sense. Under sizing amp's to 10% of driver capability and setting gains from the head unit down to the amp to leave headroom before distortion is the best policy. I'm sure I will get a snarky one liner response but I'm actively trying to get the right info out there. I have competed in many IASCA comps over the years, installed professionally in bars, restaurants and homes. Not saying I know it all, but I do know what I post.

Originally Posted by tcrote5516

Yea it will work but the install location can be tough. When your ready, bend over and I'll show you where it goes. You'll probably like it.

Originally Posted by Heavy_Metal

Im gonna guess the OP wishes he wouldve stuck with Crutchfield now........

Originally Posted by tcrote5516

Wow this thread is full of HORRIBLE advise so far. Yikes.

Originally Posted by DaytonLax14

Yeah those CAB amps look decent but the guts look crappy. It does rated though. Time will tell on the quality of these amps