Well, I am finding my coolant looking a light brown lately. Oil looks normal - no milkshake yet and I have verified the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant using the block tester and blue fluid. The good news I have plenty of time to fix it because I'm laid off. I am sure I can do this but would love some pointers from the guys here on what will make it easier.

Any suggestions on the best kits out there? I'm going to replace the lash adjusters while I'm in there.

 

I haven't had to do any in the past (Knocks on wood), but I would think FelPro would be a pretty good choice. Not sure what comes from the factory, unless Motorcraft makes them.

 

Remember that the exhaust manifold bolt/studs can snap off when trying to be removed. Replace the bolts when reinstalling with good bolts. Just be careful with removal, and soak them so they will extract without incident.

As far as the gaskets, Ford used to use Victor to manufacture their head gaskets, but I don't think they do anymore. The 92-95 4.6 h/g's were a problem, and Ford replaced them with another manufacturer, if I remember the parts bulliten correctly. Sort of like the Firestone/Wilderness tire fiasco with the Explorers. Felpro, and Victor are both rated as good gaskets currently.

 

Oh yeah, exhaust, I am going to start spraying those bitches while I'm taking everything else down.

I was thinking of some locking header bolts from summit, along with the felpro head gasket set, bolts x2 and new set of lash adjusters.

How hard are the valve stem seals to replace? Also, since I'm in there, shouldn't I replace the timing set?

 

Definitely look at the guides for the t/c's. They will tell you if you need to replace them. If the guides are toast so is the chain. You can see if they need replaced, or if you are uncertain, take a good photo of looking down the chains, from the top.

Thinking more about the chains, why not replace them while you have the heads off. They are a bit/h to get set right and with the cover off, much easier to reset. If you have the money, replace the oil pump also. It is right on the front of the motor, behind the balancer which you have to remove anyways to replace the lower gear for the chains. Sounds like a good idea actually, if, you have the money.

As far as the Summit bolts, I'm unfamiliar with them at all, so I have no opinion. Good grade 8 stainless would be ideal to replace the originals with, but that's my opinion. I doubt that the lash adj's need replacement, but if you are in there, and have the extra money, why not. As far a changing the oil seals, yuo will have the heads off, so why not get a head set, instead of the individual head gaskets, and save yourself a little money? It has the seals and everything to replace the heads on both sides, but no bolts. lol.

Good luck with your endeavor.

 

Crank holding tool and the valve spring compressor for the 4.6L. I'd take the heads to a machine shop. Resurface the heads and install the seals. They will check the guides and valve seats. If your doing the lash adjusters, I'd install those after reinstalling the heads. With them and the rockers out, there will be no pressure on the cams for installing the timing chains. Cams will be able to spin freely, no bent valves if the cams do happen to slip. #1 and #6 pistons will be all the way to TDC. A slip of the camshaft and possible bent valves. I made this mistake 1 time at the dealership. Valves are tinker toy parts and cost less than $10, but a lot of work to replace them. Install new timing tensioners, they have impregnated gaskets and will be toast. Metal exhaust gaskets, not the composite aftermarket ones. Check the intake manifold at the coolant crossover, may be cracked already. Coolant tube under intake manifold condition? Exhaust manifolds get real thin, aftermarket OE replacements are thin to start with.

 

Do you know where I can get this crank and cam tool? I guess I can squeeze in an oil pump and water pump.

Looking at the situation here, I think I should just remove the heads with the manifolds attached and then do battle with them.

 

I'll have the heads off to R&R by this Monday. Just thinking I should do a little extra to this thing for a bit more power. Ah dreams

 

The chains and guides look great. The driver side tensioner is weak but that could be because it doesn't have a fresh supply of oil. The passenger side manifold is crusty as hell. The passenger side cam has a score in it above cyl 1. So now, I am faced with a situation of maintaining or upmaintaining. Best I can do is shortys over manifolds. ( In the mustang world, shorts were pointless) and some 268 cams. Upgrades w repairs, suggestions?

 

Also, the passenger head is golden brown from the apparent coolant problem, while the driver's side is clean. The head gasket leak was on the pass side