Front differential problem
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,761
Likes: 76
From: Massachusetts
I would look into this a little more...
When in 2H the front axle isn't "live" unless the vacuum actuator is stuck (but then you would have power to the front wheels if your front drive shaft is spinning in 4w) and therefore might not be be the source of the noise unless there are actual chunks of debris in there or and the spider gears are worn and chunked... The only thing that moves in the front housing when driving in 2H are the spider gears, drivers axle shaft, and passengers inner shaft in the reverse direction... The spiders are in full 100% motion... The ring, pinion and carrier stay in place... So if it is the spiders being worn or chunked with debris in there you could replace them easily (just under $100) and the R&P haven't been moving so they could very well be fine...
To hear "diff noise" and even more so when turning in 2H would tell me to look into my CV axles first which are always turning with the force of the road regardless of what range the transfer case is in... The spider gears are not affected with any force when turning when the passenger axle isn't engaged via the shift fork and collar (2H) because there is no resistance or drag from the passenger axle...
CVs will pop and bind when turning if they're going bad or broken and grind when traveling straight...
As far as not gettin power in 4w, a busted CV could be the problem if it's that bad... Or it could something else (more likely you have 2 separate problems here), but I would start by looking at the CVs...
Get under there and give the CVs a tough wiggle try taking the weight off the front to get the rotating pressure off and wiggle as well... Any movement and they're junk...
One other scenario could be you do have a broken shift fork, and it is allowing the thrust collar to slip freely over the passenger axle while in 2H when taking a left turn thus engaging the axle and you get your clunk and bind as well as no power to the front wheels unless the collar happens to slip on...
... Nobody knows till you check and factor out the CVs as the problem then open up the diff...
Find the immediate problem, then move onto the 4w not engaging
When in 2H the front axle isn't "live" unless the vacuum actuator is stuck (but then you would have power to the front wheels if your front drive shaft is spinning in 4w) and therefore might not be be the source of the noise unless there are actual chunks of debris in there or and the spider gears are worn and chunked... The only thing that moves in the front housing when driving in 2H are the spider gears, drivers axle shaft, and passengers inner shaft in the reverse direction... The spiders are in full 100% motion... The ring, pinion and carrier stay in place... So if it is the spiders being worn or chunked with debris in there you could replace them easily (just under $100) and the R&P haven't been moving so they could very well be fine...
To hear "diff noise" and even more so when turning in 2H would tell me to look into my CV axles first which are always turning with the force of the road regardless of what range the transfer case is in... The spider gears are not affected with any force when turning when the passenger axle isn't engaged via the shift fork and collar (2H) because there is no resistance or drag from the passenger axle...
CVs will pop and bind when turning if they're going bad or broken and grind when traveling straight...
As far as not gettin power in 4w, a busted CV could be the problem if it's that bad... Or it could something else (more likely you have 2 separate problems here), but I would start by looking at the CVs...
Get under there and give the CVs a tough wiggle try taking the weight off the front to get the rotating pressure off and wiggle as well... Any movement and they're junk...
One other scenario could be you do have a broken shift fork, and it is allowing the thrust collar to slip freely over the passenger axle while in 2H when taking a left turn thus engaging the axle and you get your clunk and bind as well as no power to the front wheels unless the collar happens to slip on...
... Nobody knows till you check and factor out the CVs as the problem then open up the diff...
Find the immediate problem, then move onto the 4w not engaging
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Abita springs Louisiana
Damn. I'll look at that. You know your **** haha. But yeah my uncle had mentioned the CV axles and my dad mentioned the shift fork. As soon as I get a chance I'm gonna start looking into everything. I really appreciate the help. I'll let y'all know how it goes..
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,761
Likes: 76
From: Massachusetts
If you find that the CVs are your problem and get it fixed and still have no 4x4 (most likely) come on back...
There's a process of elimination to troubleshoot the 4x4 starting with the easy stuff to where the last resort is removing the passenger axle tube and opening the diff...
If you find the CVs are fine I would move on to SAFELY (jackstands and blocks! or a lift) Jack up the front and spin the drivers front wheel... In 2H the passenger wheel should not spin while doing so and at this point you can hear just the spiders rolling and "meshing" inside the housing but before you open the housing first disconnect the vacuum lines to the front vacuum actuator and engage the shift fork by hand (push the arm toward the passenger side, you may need to roll the wheels a bit by hand to get it to fully engage, I'd do it with my feet haha but maybe have someone help)... Does the passenger side wheel move now when you spin the drivers wheel? It should rotate in the opposite direction, cycle this motion a few times if it engages and disengages the passenger axle the fork is fine...
So now it seems you need to look at the spiders, they are pretty easy to remove and install, they just roll out when you remove the center pin from the carrier and roll back in... Make sure the ring and pinion are in good shape with no chips or chunks... If this is what you need to replace you are looking for the Ford 8.8/28 spline front. I've seen the kits for $80.00-$209.00 depending on brand
There's a process of elimination to troubleshoot the 4x4 starting with the easy stuff to where the last resort is removing the passenger axle tube and opening the diff...
If you find the CVs are fine I would move on to SAFELY (jackstands and blocks! or a lift) Jack up the front and spin the drivers front wheel... In 2H the passenger wheel should not spin while doing so and at this point you can hear just the spiders rolling and "meshing" inside the housing but before you open the housing first disconnect the vacuum lines to the front vacuum actuator and engage the shift fork by hand (push the arm toward the passenger side, you may need to roll the wheels a bit by hand to get it to fully engage, I'd do it with my feet haha but maybe have someone help)... Does the passenger side wheel move now when you spin the drivers wheel? It should rotate in the opposite direction, cycle this motion a few times if it engages and disengages the passenger axle the fork is fine...
So now it seems you need to look at the spiders, they are pretty easy to remove and install, they just roll out when you remove the center pin from the carrier and roll back in... Make sure the ring and pinion are in good shape with no chips or chunks... If this is what you need to replace you are looking for the Ford 8.8/28 spline front. I've seen the kits for $80.00-$209.00 depending on brand