Engine Builders talk.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,165
Likes: 19
My motors not built tho lol
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,533
Likes: 7,638
From: MI
@charliedyal , @fordmotorsport
Long posts suck, so I'll try to as blunt as I can lol, I want to do you guys right, so, -
Yea, I should of explained cable sizes. Let me try and ASK questions PLEASE lol, if iffy of course. I can still recommend the best for what you have at a good price. I mentioned these clamp sizes (2/0) in my first post and assumed you guys new what they were. I apologize for that, wire /cable is more less second nature to me, - since I've worked with it allot and for some strange reason took an interest in it long ago. Yea, just didn't think about that before offering up those battery clamps.
Battery cable sizes are like this, from largest to smallest, -
4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.....etc.
F150 cable when measured correctly is only 7 gauge/awg. Yea, that's all it is.
The cable clamps I posted are 2/0 solid cast copper conductors. These aren't even offered or made for our factory automotive cable. So they won't work with factory set ups without modification.
_________________________
A little bit about automotive cable
Manufacturer's use a low strand count (thicker) solid 100% copper conductor strands vs high strand count more flexible cable. The reason this is done is because the thicker the strands, the slower the corrosion rate. The thinner the strands the higher the corrosion rate. Corrosion will wick right up and into thinner high strand count cable unless it's either in an controlled environment or each strand is tinned and protected in a uncontrolled environment.
Welding cable, - One of the best configurations, hey it even has it's own extinction, but can be the worse cable to use for our vehicle cable harness, IF the wrong type is incorporated. I can't tell you how many use this and have problems soon after, but it's many! It doesn't take long. So use the correct type. Differences in type,-
1. Clean WC
2. UL Tinned WC
Use the UL Tinned WC (#2). Clean (#1) WC is very corrosive and wicks quickly. Personally and in the past, -I've tried to sneak some in under the hood, just a small section and paid for it. Split it open to find heavy oxidation (darkened copper strand sections), greening in a short amount of time..pun intended! So use the UL only, absolutely no conductive difference vs Clean. It also doesn't matter hpow good your terminations are sealed (Adhesive heat shrinked) Clean cable corrosion starts and builds inside the cable insulation via heat(thermal) transfer in colder climates. This eventually allows just enough O2 to feed, impurityize and corrode. There's no way around it. Once that starts, it climbs up through the thin strands like a vine (wicks). This is why U.L. approved comes into the picture. UL is OFC (OxygenFreeCopper) cable. The very same type Ford uses for our O2 harness as it's also signal sensitive, - maintaining it for the most part.
__________________
Anyway, yea those clamps probably won't work with your cable harness. But if you guys can get the size of your cable to me, I can/will direct you to the best clamps/terminal cancellation for your set ups. Like I said before, I will professionally crimp or solder them up for yuh free if your provide the materials and shipping.
EDIT- @fordmotorsport , - Do you recall that link I posted earlier for Remy Battery ? This is the Quick Cable distributor I found recently that said it would be two weeks from order date that they would need before sending off to the costumer..these guys, - http://www.remybattery.com/Terminal-Clamps-C1341.aspx . Well, I decided to try them out and ordered Quick Cable lugs, ring terminals and a few other things. To my surprise, they emailed me this morning informing me that my order was on the way, - sent directly from the manufacturer, - should be here by the 20th. So that's much quicker than 2 weeks lol. Use them, -if you need anything. So far they're doing me right.
Long posts suck, so I'll try to as blunt as I can lol, I want to do you guys right, so, -
Yea, I should of explained cable sizes. Let me try and ASK questions PLEASE lol, if iffy of course. I can still recommend the best for what you have at a good price. I mentioned these clamp sizes (2/0) in my first post and assumed you guys new what they were. I apologize for that, wire /cable is more less second nature to me, - since I've worked with it allot and for some strange reason took an interest in it long ago. Yea, just didn't think about that before offering up those battery clamps.
Battery cable sizes are like this, from largest to smallest, -
4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.....etc.
F150 cable when measured correctly is only 7 gauge/awg. Yea, that's all it is.
The cable clamps I posted are 2/0 solid cast copper conductors. These aren't even offered or made for our factory automotive cable. So they won't work with factory set ups without modification.
_________________________
A little bit about automotive cable
Manufacturer's use a low strand count (thicker) solid 100% copper conductor strands vs high strand count more flexible cable. The reason this is done is because the thicker the strands, the slower the corrosion rate. The thinner the strands the higher the corrosion rate. Corrosion will wick right up and into thinner high strand count cable unless it's either in an controlled environment or each strand is tinned and protected in a uncontrolled environment.
Welding cable, - One of the best configurations, hey it even has it's own extinction, but can be the worse cable to use for our vehicle cable harness, IF the wrong type is incorporated. I can't tell you how many use this and have problems soon after, but it's many! It doesn't take long. So use the correct type. Differences in type,-
1. Clean WC
2. UL Tinned WC
Use the UL Tinned WC (#2). Clean (#1) WC is very corrosive and wicks quickly. Personally and in the past, -I've tried to sneak some in under the hood, just a small section and paid for it. Split it open to find heavy oxidation (darkened copper strand sections), greening in a short amount of time..pun intended! So use the UL only, absolutely no conductive difference vs Clean. It also doesn't matter hpow good your terminations are sealed (Adhesive heat shrinked) Clean cable corrosion starts and builds inside the cable insulation via heat(thermal) transfer in colder climates. This eventually allows just enough O2 to feed, impurityize and corrode. There's no way around it. Once that starts, it climbs up through the thin strands like a vine (wicks). This is why U.L. approved comes into the picture. UL is OFC (OxygenFreeCopper) cable. The very same type Ford uses for our O2 harness as it's also signal sensitive, - maintaining it for the most part.
__________________
Anyway, yea those clamps probably won't work with your cable harness. But if you guys can get the size of your cable to me, I can/will direct you to the best clamps/terminal cancellation for your set ups. Like I said before, I will professionally crimp or solder them up for yuh free if your provide the materials and shipping.
EDIT- @fordmotorsport , - Do you recall that link I posted earlier for Remy Battery ? This is the Quick Cable distributor I found recently that said it would be two weeks from order date that they would need before sending off to the costumer..these guys, - http://www.remybattery.com/Terminal-Clamps-C1341.aspx . Well, I decided to try them out and ordered Quick Cable lugs, ring terminals and a few other things. To my surprise, they emailed me this morning informing me that my order was on the way, - sent directly from the manufacturer, - should be here by the 20th. So that's much quicker than 2 weeks lol. Use them, -if you need anything. So far they're doing me right.
Last edited by Jbrew; Jan 17, 2015 at 07:26 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,165
Likes: 19
Got the intake off, have 3 stripped coil pack fairings in the intake, so i pulled it off with 3 still on it, then a peice of old tape fell in my intake so i had to fill it with water and it came to the top, because the oil in the intake was making it stick down there, if i blow it out real good will i be alright? Also what should i do about those three coil packs, well now two, i dont have the money for a new intake.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 14,978
Likes: 143
From: Northern Virginia
Got the intake off, have 3 stripped coil pack fairings in the intake, so i pulled it off with 3 still on it, then a peice of old tape fell in my intake so i had to fill it with water and it came to the top, because the oil in the intake was making it stick down there, if i blow it out real good will i be alright? Also what should i do about those three coil packs, well now two, i dont have the money for a new intake.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,926
Likes: 144
From: Tallahassee, Fl
@charliedyal , @fordmotorsport
Long posts suck, so I'll try to as blunt as I can lol, I want to do you guys right, so, -
Yea, I should of explained cable sizes. Let me try and ASK questions PLEASE lol, if iffy of course. I can still recommend the best for what you have at a good price. I mentioned these clamp sizes (2/0) in my first post and assumed you guys new what they were. I apologize for that, wire /cable is more less second nature to me, - since I've worked with it allot and for some strange reason took an interest in it long ago. Yea, just didn't think about that before offering up those battery clamps.
Battery cable sizes are like this, from largest to smallest, -
4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.....etc.
F150 cable when measured correctly is only 7 gauge/awg. Yea, that's all it is.
The cable clamps I posted are 2/0 solid cast copper conductors. These aren't even offered or made for our factory automotive cable. So they won't work with factory set ups without modification.
_________________________
A little bit about automotive cable
Manufacturer's use a low strand count (thicker) solid 100% copper conductor strands vs high strand count more flexible cable. The reason this is done is because the thicker the strands, the slower the corrosion rate. The thinner the strands the higher the corrosion rate. Corrosion will wick right up and into thinner high strand count cable unless it's either in an controlled environment or each strand is tinned and protected in a uncontrolled environment.
Welding cable, - One of the best configurations, hey it even has it's own extinction, but can be the worse cable to use for our vehicle cable harness, IF the wrong type is incorporated. I can't tell you how many use this and have problems soon after, but it's many! It doesn't take long. So use the correct type. Differences in type,-
1. Clean WC
2. UL Tinned WC
Use the UL Tinned WC (#2). Clean (#1) WC is very corrosive and wicks quickly. Personally and in the past, -I've tried to sneak some in under the hood, just a small section and paid for it. Split it open to find heavy oxidation (darkened copper strand sections), greening in a short amount of time..pun intended! So use the UL only, absolutely no conductive difference vs Clean. It also doesn't matter hpow good your terminations are sealed (Adhesive heat shrinked) Clean cable corrosion starts and builds inside the cable insulation via heat(thermal) transfer in colder climates. This eventually allows just enough O2 to feed, impurityize and corrode. There's no way around it. Once that starts, it climbs up through the thin strands like a vine (wicks). This is why U.L. approved comes into the picture. UL is OFC (OxygenFreeCopper) cable. The very same type Ford uses for our O2 harness as it's also signal sensitive, - maintaining it for the most part.
__________________
Anyway, yea those clamps probably won't work with your cable harness. But if you guys can get the size of your cable to me, I can/will direct you to the best clamps/terminal cancellation for your set ups. Like I said before, I will professionally crimp or solder them up for yuh free if your provide the materials and shipping.
EDIT- @fordmotorsport , - Do you recall that link I posted earlier for Remy Battery ? This is the Quick Cable distributor I found recently that said it would be two weeks from order date that they would need before sending off to the costumer..these guys, - http://www.remybattery.com/Terminal-Clamps-C1341.aspx . Well, I decided to try them out and ordered Quick Cable lugs, ring terminals and a few other things. To my surprise, they emailed me this morning informing me that my order was on the way, - sent directly from the manufacturer, - should be here by the 20th. So that's much quicker than 2 weeks lol. Use them, -if you need anything. So far they're doing me right.
Long posts suck, so I'll try to as blunt as I can lol, I want to do you guys right, so, -
Yea, I should of explained cable sizes. Let me try and ASK questions PLEASE lol, if iffy of course. I can still recommend the best for what you have at a good price. I mentioned these clamp sizes (2/0) in my first post and assumed you guys new what they were. I apologize for that, wire /cable is more less second nature to me, - since I've worked with it allot and for some strange reason took an interest in it long ago. Yea, just didn't think about that before offering up those battery clamps.
Battery cable sizes are like this, from largest to smallest, -
4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.....etc.
F150 cable when measured correctly is only 7 gauge/awg. Yea, that's all it is.
The cable clamps I posted are 2/0 solid cast copper conductors. These aren't even offered or made for our factory automotive cable. So they won't work with factory set ups without modification.
_________________________
A little bit about automotive cable
Manufacturer's use a low strand count (thicker) solid 100% copper conductor strands vs high strand count more flexible cable. The reason this is done is because the thicker the strands, the slower the corrosion rate. The thinner the strands the higher the corrosion rate. Corrosion will wick right up and into thinner high strand count cable unless it's either in an controlled environment or each strand is tinned and protected in a uncontrolled environment.
Welding cable, - One of the best configurations, hey it even has it's own extinction, but can be the worse cable to use for our vehicle cable harness, IF the wrong type is incorporated. I can't tell you how many use this and have problems soon after, but it's many! It doesn't take long. So use the correct type. Differences in type,-
1. Clean WC
2. UL Tinned WC
Use the UL Tinned WC (#2). Clean (#1) WC is very corrosive and wicks quickly. Personally and in the past, -I've tried to sneak some in under the hood, just a small section and paid for it. Split it open to find heavy oxidation (darkened copper strand sections), greening in a short amount of time..pun intended! So use the UL only, absolutely no conductive difference vs Clean. It also doesn't matter hpow good your terminations are sealed (Adhesive heat shrinked) Clean cable corrosion starts and builds inside the cable insulation via heat(thermal) transfer in colder climates. This eventually allows just enough O2 to feed, impurityize and corrode. There's no way around it. Once that starts, it climbs up through the thin strands like a vine (wicks). This is why U.L. approved comes into the picture. UL is OFC (OxygenFreeCopper) cable. The very same type Ford uses for our O2 harness as it's also signal sensitive, - maintaining it for the most part.
__________________
Anyway, yea those clamps probably won't work with your cable harness. But if you guys can get the size of your cable to me, I can/will direct you to the best clamps/terminal cancellation for your set ups. Like I said before, I will professionally crimp or solder them up for yuh free if your provide the materials and shipping.
EDIT- @fordmotorsport , - Do you recall that link I posted earlier for Remy Battery ? This is the Quick Cable distributor I found recently that said it would be two weeks from order date that they would need before sending off to the costumer..these guys, - http://www.remybattery.com/Terminal-Clamps-C1341.aspx . Well, I decided to try them out and ordered Quick Cable lugs, ring terminals and a few other things. To my surprise, they emailed me this morning informing me that my order was on the way, - sent directly from the manufacturer, - should be here by the 20th. So that's much quicker than 2 weeks lol. Use them, -if you need anything. So far they're doing me right.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,926
Likes: 144
From: Tallahassee, Fl
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,533
Likes: 7,638
From: MI
@Jbrew, maybe I should hold off on it. I really don't want to mess with my cabling much. Please send my set to @fordmotorsport. Thanks again friend.