The PCV valve should be clean and the piston inside the valve should not be stuck. You can hear it easily move when you pull it out and shake it. With the engine running you will feel suction at the valve. Very inexpensive and easy to replace if DIY.

Just one belt to replace and all you need to do is move the tensioner to loosen and remove the belt and put the new one on. I use a long handle socket wrench on the tensionor wheel bolt (think it is a 9/16 bolt). I am not familiar with gator belts but most likely OK. I have used Good Year, Gates, Kelly Springfield, with good success. You can buy them out on ebay for about $30. Belts are a lot better than they used to be when I bought my first car back in 1965. Breaking a belt was common back then but today is is a rare occurrence and if you install a new belt it will most likely last for as long as you own your truck.

Battery service; clean the terminals and cables with an appropriate wire brush and the battery case and box. I always spend a little time cleaning rusted bolts and cover them with a protective lube. Reinstall the battery cables and cover the top of the connection with an appropriate grease (I use Permatex dielectric grease available at Autozone for about $4.00; I use it on all electrical connections).

Shocks; see if they show evidence of leaks and they are securely attached to the frame and axle or A-Frame. Manually push down on the front and rear bumper and make sure they are stopping the truck from making excessive movement when you stop rocking the truck.

For the chassis lube, you want to grease all the ball joints and tie rod ends if they have grease fittings on them. The original equipment most likely did not have grease fittings so there is nothing to grease. Replacement fittings or ball joints might have grease fittings to grease. I also use an appropriate spray lube to do all the hinges on the doors, hood, tail gate. Also lube hood release, door latches, locks, hood release cable, accelerator cable, and parking brake cable.

Point of information: Ford recommends adding friction modifier (Ford part no C8AZ-19B546-A) to SAE 75W-140GL-5 synthetic gear lube that you used in the rear axle. I am telling you this because I once change the rear axle gear lube in another vehicle and about two years later the differential failed. I am not sure what caused this but my mechanic told me that in years of experience with the vehicle (a BMW) he had never seen such a failure.

hope this helps Good luck

 

Ok so even though I just replaced the rear with flying that said it had modifier in it you suggest I go by ford for some of there friction modifier?

 

If your rear differential fluid said that it includes a friction modifier, you probably don't need to add any additional. But for normal run of the mill SAE 75W-140GL-5 synthetic gear lube, Ford suggests that you add their friction modifier. I understand that it requires 4 oz for the small case and 8 oz for the large case. Sounds like you found a gear lube that already has the friction modifier in it.

 

Would it hurt to add a 4oz of fords stuff?

 

The friction modifier? It is required for limited slips

 

The bottles said they had modifier in it I'm just asking if I should add some of fords

 

What fluid did you use?

 

One bottle of royal purple and 2 of Lucas

 

The royal purple or the lucas had the modifier? I would check the concentration to see if there would be enough. I think adding a 4oz bottle couldn't hurt anything though