Hi do you need a scan tool to bleed my 2001 Ford f 150 4x4 . I just replaced both of my rear calipers along with a hard line and a flex line all on the rear. So I bled my brakes and I had a low pedal . I bought a new master cylinder and bench bled it ,replaced 2 master cylinder lines going to the ABS module. Bled the brakes 2 times using a vacuum bleeder. Seemed to get a lot of air out of the system but still pedal goes to the floor. Will pump up solid after 3 or 4 pumps but let it rest for a minute or two and pushes to the floor ,no leaks ??? So do I need a scan tool to cycle the ABS to get air out of it ? I'm buying a pressure pump to bleed the brakes(Motive brand) Can I bleed the ABS unit with the pressure pump by cracking the lines ? or does the unit need to be cycled so the position of the internal parts are in the proper spot ? Thanks for your time and knowledge Herman

 

Guess it could be considered a tossup, meaning some have had a problem with the ABS some no problem after the system was opened.
When I replaced the ABS pump on mine, had a hard time bleeding with a vacuum pump as air was being pulled in around the bleeders.
Did it the conventional way, had a pedal and able to drive w/o any trouble with the ABS. Don't use the truck much, but over the winter
hit the brakes hard to check while on snow/ice, the pump worked fine, no problems.

If you can get a pedal, some say to take the truck out and hammer the brakes, on sand, grass, or any slippery surface to activate the pump.

 

I don't recall ever needing a tool but I definitely recall that I bled them several times without a tool. I like Turbonut's tip for activating the pump. A good idea if you have a confounding low pedal and want to uncover every stone. Yes, there are some Fords that must use a tool but most don't need it and on most vehicles of this age there's not an option to do it in the Ford scan tool's (IDS) software.

First thing I do is verify the MC is bled by ensuring it gravity bleeds at either the 2 MC line connections or the 2 HCU inlet line connections. If either hydraulic circuit doesn't gravity bleed, the MC isn't bled. Then I gravity bleed the HCU and the rest of the brakes with the bleeder valves. That easy,no pumping, no helper needed.

Pro tip: If you open the hydraulic system but don't intend to replace the MC, wedge a stick between the seat and the brake pedal to hold the brake pedal down an inch or 2. This pushes the pistons past the compensator ports in the MC and prevents it from gravity bleeding and draining the MC reservoir. Keeps you from having the bleed the MC and the HCU, 2 things worth taking trouble to avoid.

 

I did bleed the Master Cylinder with block-off plugs and I was not happy with the results so I bled the cylinder with a bench bleeding kit with hoses that return to the Master Cylinder . That seemed fine. Got myself a vacuum bleeder and went at it to no avail. I even put Teflon tape around the bleeder screws to try and stop any leakage around the threads . You mention there's no option to cycle the pump on my truck ? Was that before they started doing that on maybe newer trucks ? I am waiting on a pressure bleeder and will try and bleed the system with that . Should eliminate extra air being introduced from leaks around bleeder screw threads. Your idea about getting the pump to activate sounds good . Is there a way to check that the ABS pump is working ? other than making the truck skid ? Herman

 

Herman,
Below is the brake section from Ford shop manual for your truck.
If you need to bleed the EHCU (abs hydraulic unit) you will need a scanner that can perform the procedure. I use Forscan but there are probably others.

 

I looked at my Ford paper shop manual for the '04 heritage and it says you can use WDS (a lol-worthy scan tool that's obsolete) and NGS (another obsolete scan tool that rocked) to bleed the brakes but that can just be a canned statement. Ford has been known to copy and paste stuff across platforms in shop manuals. I did abs work at a stealer when these trucks were in production and long after, and I don't remember using a scan tool to work on the hydraulic system nor do I remember whipping out a scan tool when a line or maintenance tech came to me asking for help with a soft pedal.
I guess my question remains, does each hydraulic circuit gravity bleed?
Also keep in mind that once you've been traumatized by a hard to bleed 10th gen its easy to forget how lame the pedal normally feels. A good rule of thumb is that they will slow slightly briskly when the pedal is pushed down to level with the accel pedal. If you want to lock anything up, you're going past the accel pedal.

 

Thank-You for taking your time to do this for me. It's the sources like you are providing that make all the difference. Herman

 

I am not one to insult anyone . I try to take everyone's opinion as gospel . In my opinion there's no body better to ask than someone who actually worked on these at a Ford dealer. Yes there is fluid at all calipers. No I don't know how a Ford pedal should feel I usually drive chevy's . But I have driven many Ford trucks for work at building supply companies I have worked for and they never seemed to have any unusually different feeling to the brake pedal. We have one truck at my work right now with a low pedal I won't drive but that's another story. A lot of people say NO Worries Just bleed the brakes. I did that 3 times now. Pedal shouldn't go to the floor. So more reading and researching . Vacuum bleeder didn't work. So now I ordered a pressure bleeder. In the meantime I read my ABS unit has most likely packed it in and has air trapped in it . When I get my pressure bleeder I check the unit (hard to do by yourself) Just one of those things I never had a problem with doing brakes on so many vehicles over the years . I'm pretty convinced my problem is a bad ABS unit. Ok does it make any sense to have my truck running while I bleed the brakes ? Going to try that too ;.I didn't understand what you were saying about . A good rule of thumb is that they will slow slightly briskly when the pedal is pushed down to level with the accel pedal. If you want to lock anything up, you're going past the accel peda . I know that is with the assist but you should have a firm feeling pedal with the engine turned off . Thanks for the help and advice. Herman

 

The problem trucks are 10th gens. The Super Crews have better pedal feel, as they used some Expedition pieces.

FWIW, Even the non-ABS 10th gens are harder to bleed than a lot of vehicles. BTW, I answered your question in another thread that you posted in (Thinking). My truck has always been a big PITA to bleed, even being non-ABS. My friend in the manager at a Big O, and I just have him do it for me for about 40 dollars. They have a bleeder that nails it every time. This is one of the few things I don't do myself. I have bled many different vehicles, but these trucks are the devil himself.

I mentioned the Expedition above, and my 98 Expedition (w/ABS) was much easier to do than my truck. I did not use a tool for that.

 

Thank-You for your input I did read your reply in the other thread. Not to sound like an idiot but my truck is in the air on jack stands . I don't have a buddy with a shop to go to . I did have he died of cancer . So i am doing this myself . I'm waiting on a pressure bleeder and will try again with that . Don't understand why these trucks are such a PITA. Herman