I just did new coils and plugs and read somewhere here that gap should be .048 which is what they were more or less out of the box, Motorcraft Platinums. I finish up and remove my drop cloth from front cowling and it says .052-.054?
i"m i fine or is this an issue? Doing all these w/ the fuel rails on is not the easiest thing to do for the amateur mechanic.

 

Personally... I would leave them unless you start having problems...as they burn your gap will increase.

 

Yea 52-54 is correct. That's what they should be.

You don't really want to wait for the gap to expand. Usually won't happen for 60,000 miles with these plugs...if you even run them that long. Surprised to hear they came gaped at 48. They usually come gaped perfectly. Anyway, there isn't any TSB's stating the gap has changed for the modular 5fours.

 

well, thats what my cheapo gap disc said and they were. And all the same at .048. They trucks got 149,000 on it and were org. plugs w/ little electrode left. The ones I removed gapped at around .08 so i"m thinking .004 isn't a big deal. Maybe I can change or check some of the front ones. Cylinder #7 almost killed me...

 

Pick up wire gauge next time your at the auto store. It's much easier to be accurate with one.

Best thing to do is just follow users manual. - If it's not too late lol.

Hey these trucks/engines are fairly resilient, some can't even tell if they can run better than they do. They can and do with proper maintenance...last long long time.

 

so the plot thickens.. Jbrew says they usually come gapped pretty good and that was bugging me. These were from .045 to .048. I went back to Oreilys and he said we sold you the wrong plugs! The plugs were for the gas/nat gas model, SP-405 AGSF-22FM1 He said the heat range is the same but if were his truck he would replace them. He sold them to me for $1.99 and will give me credit on the old ones. #7 was REALLY a pain to remove the coild bolt because of that valve hangning down on the fuel rail. Do you think I can leave that one alone?? this sucks...

 

I'd change it.. That's just me though

 

#7 is easier if you loosen the drivers side fuel rail. I fought that one for ~30 minutes getting it off and another 20 getting it back.
2nd time I just took off the fuel rail bolts and moved it just out of the way, took 10 minutes total for plug 7.

 

It does go quickThat's what I do. Well perhaps not quite ? I remove the fuel rail almost completely. I take both sides off and flip it up on top of the intake. I don't like it the least little bit in the way lol.

Take heed, or doing so may be a little bit of a catastrophe if you haven't done before lol.

Just lay rags down to protect coils and keep from filling the plug chambers with fuel. Bleeding the pressure off in the rail will help a little, - very little, I don't do that. But this can be done quick once you know a few things.

1. Disconnect the injector connectors.

2. Stuff rags under the rails.

3. Leaving the injectors in the manifold, then pull the rails from the injectors. Have more rags on standby.

4. Wrap the rails with another rag and place the rail on top of the manifold.

5. Remove the rags you stuffed in there earlier. Done!

It does go quick and it speeds up the entire process.

 

thanks guys. asking the question on this forum may have saved me a huge headache / damaged engine down the line.