I have a 2001 F-150 5.4 Triton V8 that slowly started having a crank no start issue over 30 days, then finally just went to where it will not start.

When it does start (about every 50 tries) it runs great. No stalling, hesitation, or running issues. Continues to run until it is shut off by key, then it goes back to cranking with no start.

Here's where it gets weird: (Let me explain, then I will get to everything we have done so far.) If I crank it one time, then leave the ignition in the On positio and wait with a 5 minute timer *timed on my phone) and crank again, it starts!!! Nearly every time. I can replicate this over and over and over, and it will start with that sequence.

Turn and crank, wait 5 minutes with the key still on, and crank again. Boom, it starts.

Now let me save you the breath of what you think it may be before you offer to help, for which I humbly thank you in advance...

3 mechanics and over $1200 later, no one can figure this out. I personally have spent 30 hours on this. (You have no idea how long it took me to arrive at that 5 minute sequence I mentioned above...) We have replaced:

-The fuel pump and filter at $750 (Obviously this mechanic shop just guessed, and they guessed wrong.)
-The fuel pump relay.
-The crank position sensor.
-The aftermarket alarm is gone, now completely removed and out of the wiring.
-The PATS transponder & cable has been replaced (Passive Anti Theft System)
-Ignition switch is likely not the culprit, as it faithfully starts each time after the 'crank-wait five minutes-crank" procedure
-New key with FOB / Transmitter programming, no change.
-Starter is fine as expected, so is solenoid, but they were both replaced anyway to t-shoot (at least I got my money back on that one...)
-Grounding cables to each major point inspected and tightened.
-Grounds from coil packs inspected.

Also note: Zero codes thrown. Ever. The one and only time we got a code of any kind, was right after the aftermarket security system was removed. Then we got a PATS alarm. However that has cleared and the new PATS cable assembly made no difference, so I think it was just taken off the ignition during the alarm system removal and ended up being a false positive.

To me this all points back to the Anti-Theft system but I have no way of being certain.

The Anti-Theft light does come on for 1 second when you turn the key and it lights up with all the other console lights, but then goes away. There is no blinking or fast blinking from the light. This is the regular light within the dash above the spedometer that just says "Theft" and it goes away as expected.

 

If it cranks, it's not a starter/ignition/connections problem.
If it can be predictably started, it doesn't sound like a PATS problem.
If it runs normally after starting, it's not an engine problem.

Sounds more like a fuel problem to me. Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator ?

 

I was thinking FPR the whole time as well.

Bleeds off after shut off, leave key on (engine off) and pressure builds back up…that’s my only guess without being there with a gauge in hand. All that other mess is just firing the Random Parts Cannon just for fun. Sometimes it is, but it’s costly.

 

Good question. FPR was supposedly checked and fine when they had the fuel tank dropped and replaced the fuel pump replaced.

Now get this: I sprayed some QD electronics cleaner in and all over the ignition switch and it cranked right up, first try, about 35 times. I mean CONSTANTLY started up every time.

Buttoned the whole dash back up, started up a few more times. Thought I had solved it.

Tonight, nope. Right back to where I was: Only turns over now if I wait five minutes after the first attempt.

 

I don't think spraying the ignition switch was the changing factor. It was already cranking before so the ignition was working.

Seems like once the fuel pressure builds up it will continue to start repeatedly. If allowed to sit, the pressure bleeds off and it won't start.

Key on, engine off rebuilds the pressure and allows it to start. Still sounds like a fuel problem.

Like JohnnyPaycheck said, you need to get your hands on a fuel pressure gage and see what's happening. Use it to verify regulator is working properly too. There are videos on how to do all this.

 

A test light on the fuel pump power feed and a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield
A little diagnosis is badly needed
Run the PIDS for the fuel pump and antitheft key on power etc.
You can check all of that on a 2001 with a Ford NGS
Correct your mechanic did not have one (a NGS)
There are pinpoint tests for the antitheft in the PCED no start subroutines flowchart
Buy a 01 PCED or camp out at your local library for a few days, printing pages out of it using AllData for free
Compare your PIDS to the reference values in the PCED for your engine combo
Good luck

 

Thank you guys!!! According to the shop that replaced the fuel pump, pressure at the rails was at 35lbs before the replacement and is now at 80lbs.

I really don't think it's fuel system related myself, but anything is possible at this point.

Regarding this: "Run the PIDS for the fuel pump and antitheft key on power etc.
You can check all of that on a 2001 with a Ford NGS
Correct your mechanic did not have one (a NGS)
There are pinpoint tests for the antitheft in the PCED no start subroutines flowchart
Buy a 01 PCED or camp out at your local library for a few days, printing pages out of it using AllData for free
Compare your PIDS to the reference values in the PCED for your engine combo
Good luck"

Yes that's exactly what I asked for at the shop, said I wanted to see if they had any real-time screenshots of voltage drops and PIDs when turning the key and they said they didn't save any of the data but that it all checked out fine with their "$10,000 machine" I think they're just full of **** and guessed and swapped the fuel pump out...

 

35 lbs is correct, 80 lbs is way too high. When you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for a couple of seconds then shuts off, it doesn't constantly run that's why you cycle the key to build up more pressure.

 

Yeah I figured they were blowing smoke up my **** about 80lbs of pressure. Whatever. I hate that shop and will never go back.

 

Have a 2003 F150, 5.4L 255K, that did the very same thing about 5 years back.

After driving and shutting off would get a crank no start. After about 5 mins sitting it would fire right off, rinse and repeat.

I’m glad I scoured the internet before throwing parts or time at it because the problem turned out to be cracked solder connections on the instrument cluster circuit board.

Turns out the Anti-Theft System circuit runs thru the cluster and a bad connection there doesn’t allow the system to register the presence of the chip key in the ignition.

I bought a soldering iron, roll of solder and a magnifying glass, pulled the cluster and inspected it. Sure enough there were hairline cracks in some solder. Daubed some fresh solder on those and haven’t had another no start since.

No previous soldering experience required just be careful not to damage or dirty the circuit board and only get solder on the points you intend to fix. No sweat!

I hope this helps!