I have long wondered if it's something just like you mentioned, especially with heat and cold of the weather causing expanding and contracting. Do you remember whereabouts in particular you looked? You mentioned the instrument cluster circuit board. Is that behind the odometer? Wondering how far I need to tear down to find that...

I can definitely tear it back apart and inspect cabling. I'm near certain this is the anti-theft kicking on. That helps a lot, thank you.

Edit: Found a good video on it. May be a day or two but I will try it. Thanks man!

 

MIZZOUMAN87 I owe you a beer. You nailed it. I took pics and will have a detailed explanation of the fix by tomorrow. It was 100% the instrument cluster.
Edit. Nope. See next comment

 

Aaaaand it's not starting again. Seems I am fighting a problem with something expanding and contracting electrically, because if it warms up in the sun it's fine. I must have started it 50 times yesterday afternoon. But this morning, it won't turn over. Oh well. Selling it

 

Back to basics, check the processor
The underhood main fuses might be loosing contact intermittently
You need a scan tool with pids so you can check a bunch of them against reference tables
VREF INJ Etc. you got something that is not happening during initial cold start

 

Just like a Dr. a guy like me is going to want to know all kinds of sheet
Every Like pid a cheap scan tool will give you
Watch the O2's switch and check the fuel trims, the works
Do not trust your solder repair either until you check the theft pids
You generally cannot test those theft pids or get those codes without a NGS or hitting the dealer possibly downloading and using Forscan