Appear to have plenty of removal area

I believe these 2 exhaust downpipe bolts are the only thing holding the cylinder head down since the 10 head bolts are removed (as well as phaser)


2010 4.6l 3 valve. Engine "8"

Since the exhaust manifold bolts to the cylinder heads are freaking near impossible to remove without shearing off at least one off it looks like the smarter move would be to leave it attached and simple remove the 2 bolts at the exhaust downpipe flange.

Seems like plenty of room then to just haul that combined unit out the top. Am I missing something?

Goal here- examine pistons

 

Sure, you can pull the head with the manifold attached.

Why not use a borescope through the plug holes instead?

 

Thank you. I've had the truck 16 years and it's likely that piston I'm concerned about is destroyed (dropped valve) but I just have to see it and then make the final decision.

If it is destroyed I'm thinking of just getting it back together after cleaning out as much of the metal as possible then disconnecting the injector and coil and see if it will run on 7 cylinders. It's the biggest "if" in my life. It's use to be my work truck, now it's only used for an occasional run to Lowe's (3 miles away) so it would stay have to stay unregistered until I break for a used/rebuilt.

 

Dropped valve means you have to repair the head or replace it.

Running an engine like you are suggesting and expecting it to work good enough is not possible for a lot of reasons.

 

My concern is you still have the timing cover on, wont be pretty....
you mentioned the valve dropped, you would be able to see that by just looking at the valve spring from up above,

Unless you meant, the valve seat...

I agree with above, seems like way to much work without boroscoping it first.


ANOTHER huge issue I think you may have, im not certain but needs to be looked at.
The top retaining bolt for the timing chain guide may be attached to the front of the cylinder head..

Never seen on of these drop a valve seat before....

 

This entire ordeal has bad news written all over it.

 

As I said, never see one drop a valve!!!
This is clearly over your head.
You seized a roller follower. ignore the tale tail noises until it spit the rocker.
You need new rockers & a camshaft.
The cam lobe is toast!!!

If you boroscope the cylinder you will see that the piston is fine.
Im scratching my head!!!!

 

Thank you. I've had the truck 16 years and it's likely that piston I'm concerned about is destroyed (dropped valve) but I just have to see it and then make the final decision.

If it is destroyed I'm thinking of just getting it back together after cleaning out as much of the metal as possible then disconnecting the injector and coil and see if it will run on 7 cylinders. It's the biggest "if" in my life. It's use to be my work truck, now it's only used for an occasional run to Lowe's (3 miles away) so it would stay have to stay unregistered until I break for a used/rebuilt.

 

I hear you loud and clear. Just crimping along till I can put my eyes on it.

 

I'm in over my head for sure but I've been doing car/truck repairs for over 50 years and have found myself in a similar predicaments before and somehow manage to pull the repair through.

My son had a '99 V6 Concorde that blew the serp belt which stopped the engine on the freeway. It tanked a cylinder as well. We ended up bypassing that cylinder by pulling the injector and it ran pretty good. A trained ear could hear something was amiss (of course a check engine light came on) but I was surprised how well it ran on just the 5 cylinders.

Just hoping to get the truch into a similar situation. There's alot I don't know here but I'm gonna see this thing through.

Oh, and your right. I wasn't aware the timing chain cover has to come off so I'm working on that now. Piecemeal at best. Prolly take now until Friday to get that bear out of there.

Much appreciate the input. 🫵