Anyone sitting on a wiring diagram for the keyless entry in a 2006 SC? I am prepping for a security/remote start install and the system isn't in my archive of wiring diagrams.

TIA

 

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...8&link=Bulldog

 

Chris thanks.

I know you just completed this project. Where did you locate everything physically? I would assume that almost 90% of the wires i needed to tap into would be centrally located at the BCM where the controls for the factory remote lock/unlock/panic sensor is since the factory fob is tied into the lights, horn, interior and door locks.

Got any surprises or challenges I should be prepared for?

 

I didn't do an alarm, just remote start with keyless entry. I skipped several connections because of this. There is another link on that site that will tell you how to diode isolate the door pins for entry triggering. I skipped that since I didn't feel it was needed in my application. I originally tried the color wires for the locks listed at the connector, but they didn't work so I dug into the harness under the driver door sill going back to the bcm for the lock wires. The link shows where to get the wire for park lights and brake switch. All the wires for remote start are at the ignition switch under the lower column plastics. Immobilizer wires are at the lock cylinder, horn wire is at a plug in the same area. I zip tied the remote start brain and key bypass to the dash brace. For an alarm it would probably be best to hide it behind the instrument cluster or behind/over the radio.

Best advice I can give is to bench prep the unit - remove all the unneeded wires before you start to try to install it.

 

tip for you man.

dont just splice into the wires without checking them with either a voltmeter or 12v test light. make sure you have voltage where voltage should be present. check your starter wire for voltage while cranking, check ign for power with key at the on position aswell as when the truck is running and your ACC wire with key at ACC. ign and acc should show no voltage while cranking.

dont use T-taps and dont solder. everyone says to solder but its a pain in the *** and what happens if you need to uninstall the system for some reason? then you have to cut the wires...

keep it simple, strip wire coating off the wires at the PCM/BCM split the wire threads so you can fit the wires from the remote start brain through the PCM/BCM wires and twist em good, tape em up. i always do mine this way. its easy, you dont burn yourself trying to solder under the dash and it makes it easier to take the system out if you need too. i know all the install locations say to always solder but its not needed, just my opinion.

also check to make sure youve got good grounds. make sure your hood pin is either connected properly or unconnected, neutral safety must rest at ground at all times.

pay attention to the polarity of the trucks systems, like door locks and lights as well as the polarity of the brains output for those systems. the door locks on my girlfriends mustang had a negative polarity, i had to use a relay to make sure the locks got the right signal so nothing shorted out/got ****ed up.

samething with the lights. my dads 2012, which i jsut finished installing a Python 414 in, has both a negative and positive polarity at two different wires.

The brains normally have a light polarity jumper. make sure youve got the jumper in the proper position. the horn function may also have a polarity jumper on the unit depending what unit you have.

 

big help right here. like he said "bench prep it"

makes it a hell of a lot easier if you know what wire is what and you have any other wires out of the way. ive even used masking tape at the end of every wire to be sure.

 

I agree with everything there about testing and whatnot but disagree with not making a permanent connection. I soldered mine in but wouldn't use t-taps.

 

T-tap is a nono for sure lol

i solder EVERYTHING i wire with the exception of remote starts lol yea you get a permanent connection...thats why i solder everything but a remote start is inside the vehicle, not exposed to water,salt etc. the way i wire and wrap aint ever coming undone.

gotta make an O in the wire threads and thread the new wire through it, pull tight, twist like a **** and tape that shiz tight! haha aint had any problems.

 

I am looking at the BCM wiring now, so instead of hooking the unlock/lock to the wires listed on that site(which run through the switch) you hooked them straight to the wires that run to the actuators (pink/orange and pink/black) i guess that makes sense. Do you remember which was up and which was down?

 

here is what I put together so far from the links you guys gave me and some googling and comparing to my wiring archive

if I can I would like to locate the brain on the back wall with the BCM if I can and ive bolded the wires that I would have to extend if I chose to do this. So far it looks like 2 maybe 3 wires I would have to run extensions. I have note picked through the remote start yet because I am still learning how the bypass fits into the equation.

Main Harness

h1/1 red const 12v - tap to a const 12v lt grn/yellow BCM
h1/2 black grnd - chassis ground Bk BCM
h1/3 brown siren out - connect to sirens red (black to ground)
h1/4 white/brown park light isolation wire - not used
h1/5 white park light out - BRN BCM
h1/6 orange ground when armed out - not used

Door lock

1 blue out - tap to neg unlock - Pnk/OG
2 empty
3 green - tap to neg lock- Pnk/BK

Aux/shutdown/trigger harness, 24-pin connector

h2/1 pink/white ign/flex relay out - not used
h2/2 black/white neutral safety input - Run straight to grnd
h2/3 blue white 2nd stat/rear defog out - not used
h2/4 green black oem alarm disarm out - not used
h2/5 red/white trunk release out - not used
h2/6 green door trigger in - tap to door trigger Bk/yl, Bk/Pk, BK/Lt Bl, BLK/WT BCM

h2/7 black/yellow dome light supv out - hook to any one of the 4 door triggers in h2/6

h2/8 brown/black horn honk - tap to horn DK BL BCM
h2/9 dark/blue status out - Do I need this?
h2/10 pink ign out - not used

h2/11 white/black aux3 out - not used
h2/12 violet door trigger in - not used
h2/13 white/violet aux1 out - not used
h2/14 violet/black aux2 out - not used
h2/15 orange/black aux4 out - not used
h2/16 brown brake shutdown in - tap to brake wire switch LT GR at brake pedal

h2/17 grey hood pin - to hood pin Under the hood
h2/18 violet yellow starter out - not used

h2/19 blue instant trigger in - not used

h2/20 grey/black diesel wait to start - not used
h2/21 white/blue remote start/tt acvt in - not used
h2/22 orange acc out - not used
h2/23 violet/white tach in - under the hood Is this necesary?
h2/24 oem alarm out - not used

I still need to pick through the above and make sure everything meshes correctly as far as polarity. If anybody has any input on the couple of wires I have questions on i would appreciate it.

This is for a viper 5704 system