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Now he'll be blinding everyone, since those headlamps weren't designed for that amount of light.
Aimed correctly they aren't bad... on my 2010 F450 I was able to clock the bulbs and aim them down. I added an LED light bar to fill in and it worked well..
Originally Posted by Promodmerc
I had the same issue with the LED & foglights. My original headlight assemblies were fairly yellowed so I replaced them with some aftermarket
headlights that have a projector low beam & reflector high beam. LED bulbs will not fit because of the design, so I went HID for the low beam. If the LED thing becomes an annoyance I may go that route too.
BTW, your link comes up as Jacky Jones OEM Ford Parts replacement steering wheel.
Thanks I fixed it - but the links in the quotes remain broken ftl
Just now finished checking my front driver side ball joint for rattle/clunk with the truck on a jackstand (been hearing the noise in the cab for years now, since I bought the truck in 2014, and its driving me nuts, but could never quite figure out what it was, though I think I might have pinned it down).
Also went ahead and took my FPDM off and cleaned it up, in addition to the mounting bolts, frame and surrounding area. Turns out its the original OEM one. (I'm from Arkansas, so thankfully I don't have deal with as much road salt, so there's minimal rust issues to worry about).
For those that still have their original OEM FPDM that still works, has anyone used washers between the module and the frame? As a preventative measure, I just tried this to keep it away from the frame and it seems to have worked. (The washers are pictured last)
My question is, will this work as a long term solution to prevent the common corrosion?
Last edited by International96; 03-05-2020 at 10:52 PM.
I just replaced mine the last week after it died right after a carwash. Real pain in the ***... The new ones come with a spacer since the genius Ford engineers didn't think about putting an Aluminum part directly on the steel frame. The spacers should prevent that from happening again.
I just replaced mine the last week after it died right after a carwash. Real pain in the ***... The new ones come with a spacer since the genius Ford engineers didn't think about putting an Aluminum part directly on the steel frame. The spacers should prevent that from happening again.
Ouch that one is bad.
Glad you got it fixed but it’s very old news. Replaced mine in 2010 and it’s been a known issue since then.
I had to replace my driver side front window regulator today. I was at lunch, went to put my window down and it dropped as soon as I pressed the window switch. Not a good sign when the cable looks like a tangled fly casting reel.
I had to replace my driver side front window regulator today. I was at lunch, went to put my window down and it dropped as soon as I pressed the window switch. Not a good sign when the cable looks like a tangled fly casting reel.
How many miles on your truck? I’m at 233k miles and all original....
Another cheap ***** design auto makers use to save a couple pennies! Somehow my 85 RX7 still has original regulators that always work.
Fortunately they are relatively easy to change.
I did my regulator after it exploded last year. I cant complain as it was a relatively inexpensive repair (my buddy's 911 Porsche regulator costs 4X as much).
I replaced my rear shocks finally... RS9000xl's that came with my leveling kit, the old shocks, OEM at 230k were in perfect condition... crazy huh? I also replaced my cowl trim and fog lights. See the last photo.. the trim is "higher" at the drivers end and moves a little. I can push it down to the "perfect" position. Does anyone have a quick answer to making it fit? Otherwise I'll run a SS screw into it to hold it in position.
03-03-2020, 06:17 PM
