What did you do to your 11th gen today?
Senior Member
I had the same issue with the LED & foglights. My original headlight assemblies were fairly yellowed so I replaced them with some aftermarket
headlights that have a projector low beam & reflector high beam. LED bulbs will not fit because of the design, so I went HID for the low beam. If the LED thing becomes an annoyance I may go that route too.
BTW, your link comes up as Jacky Jones OEM Ford Parts replacement steering wheel.
headlights that have a projector low beam & reflector high beam. LED bulbs will not fit because of the design, so I went HID for the low beam. If the LED thing becomes an annoyance I may go that route too.
BTW, your link comes up as Jacky Jones OEM Ford Parts replacement steering wheel.
Work Truck Owner aka Josh
Just now finished checking my front driver side ball joint for rattle/clunk with the truck on a jackstand (been hearing the noise in the cab for years now, since I bought the truck in 2014, and its driving me nuts, but could never quite figure out what it was, though I think I might have pinned it down).
Also went ahead and took my FPDM off and cleaned it up, in addition to the mounting bolts, frame and surrounding area. Turns out its the original OEM one. (I'm from Arkansas, so thankfully I don't have deal with as much road salt, so there's minimal rust issues to worry about).
For those that still have their original OEM FPDM that still works, has anyone used washers between the module and the frame? As a preventative measure, I just tried this to keep it away from the frame and it seems to have worked. (The washers are pictured last)
My question is, will this work as a long term solution to prevent the common corrosion?
Also went ahead and took my FPDM off and cleaned it up, in addition to the mounting bolts, frame and surrounding area. Turns out its the original OEM one. (I'm from Arkansas, so thankfully I don't have deal with as much road salt, so there's minimal rust issues to worry about).
For those that still have their original OEM FPDM that still works, has anyone used washers between the module and the frame? As a preventative measure, I just tried this to keep it away from the frame and it seems to have worked. (The washers are pictured last)
My question is, will this work as a long term solution to prevent the common corrosion?
Last edited by International96; 03-05-2020 at 10:52 PM.
Junior Member
I just replaced mine the last week after it died right after a carwash. Real pain in the ***... The new ones come with a spacer since the genius Ford engineers didn't think about putting an Aluminum part directly on the steel frame. The spacers should prevent that from happening again.
Senior Member
I just replaced mine the last week after it died right after a carwash. Real pain in the ***... The new ones come with a spacer since the genius Ford engineers didn't think about putting an Aluminum part directly on the steel frame. The spacers should prevent that from happening again.
Glad you got it fixed but it’s very old news. Replaced mine in 2010 and it’s been a known issue since then.
Senior Member
I had to replace my driver side front window regulator today. I was at lunch, went to put my window down and it dropped as soon as I pressed the window switch. Not a good sign when the cable looks like a tangled fly casting reel.
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Mike2147 (03-09-2020)
Senior Member
Another cheap ***** design auto makers use to save a couple pennies! Somehow my 85 RX7 still has original regulators that always work.
Fortunately they are relatively easy to change.
Fortunately they are relatively easy to change.
Senior Member
Senior Member
QuickRick
Senior Member
Senior Member
I replaced my rear shocks finally... RS9000xl's that came with my leveling kit, the old shocks, OEM at 230k were in perfect condition... crazy huh? I also replaced my cowl trim and fog lights. See the last photo.. the trim is "higher" at the drivers end and moves a little. I can push it down to the "perfect" position. Does anyone have a quick answer to making it fit? Otherwise I'll run a SS screw into it to hold it in position.