What did you do to your 11th gen today?
10-16-2019, 08:24 PM
Senior Member
FordTechMakuloco says that a rattle at start up is also a sign of bad lifters. I'm planning on doing lifter, and followers with the timing set, and possibly cams (fingers crossed).
Ford parts giant has good prices on the parts.
Last edited by Screwed05; 10-16-2019 at 08:27 PM.
10-16-2019, 09:08 PM
Member
Nice job! I'm assuming you'll still be going through the effort of removing/cleaning the pick-up tube anyway?
There is a little wear on that cover (mine had worse), so hopefully the oil filter caught it. All the more reason to change the oil pump (to get it out). I drove the original engine in my Olds for a few thousand miles with a spun bearing, and its pump was nearly clogged with gray mud.
FWIW, I never pulled the wheel wells and never had to; I never touched any transmission both (I'm assuming for the dipstick?). Once the AC accumulator was removed, the passenger side VC was cake. IIRC, getting to the aft bolts on the driver's side VC was far worse.
Post some videos of the phaser slop.
There is a little wear on that cover (mine had worse), so hopefully the oil filter caught it. All the more reason to change the oil pump (to get it out). I drove the original engine in my Olds for a few thousand miles with a spun bearing, and its pump was nearly clogged with gray mud.
FWIW, I never pulled the wheel wells and never had to; I never touched any transmission both (I'm assuming for the dipstick?). Once the AC accumulator was removed, the passenger side VC was cake. IIRC, getting to the aft bolts on the driver's side VC was far worse.
Post some videos of the phaser slop.
10-16-2019, 09:15 PM
Senior Member
Im hoping I havnt let mine go long enough to require new lifters. We shall see. I dont have time to do it myself so ill bite the bullet and get a shop to do it.
10-16-2019, 10:28 PM
Senior Member
Nice job! I'm assuming you'll still be going through the effort of removing/cleaning the pick-up tube anyway?
There is a little wear on that cover (mine had worse), so hopefully the oil filter caught it. All the more reason to change the oil pump (to get it out). I drove the original engine in my Olds for a few thousand miles with a spun bearing, and its pump was nearly clogged with gray mud.
FWIW, I never pulled the wheel wells and never had to; I never touched any transmission both (I'm assuming for the dipstick?). Once the AC accumulator was removed, the passenger side VC was cake. IIRC, getting to the aft bolts on the driver's side VC was far worse.
Post some videos of the phaser slop.
There is a little wear on that cover (mine had worse), so hopefully the oil filter caught it. All the more reason to change the oil pump (to get it out). I drove the original engine in my Olds for a few thousand miles with a spun bearing, and its pump was nearly clogged with gray mud.
FWIW, I never pulled the wheel wells and never had to; I never touched any transmission both (I'm assuming for the dipstick?). Once the AC accumulator was removed, the passenger side VC was cake. IIRC, getting to the aft bolts on the driver's side VC was far worse.
Post some videos of the phaser slop.
You need to loosen the transmission dipstick tube, and the only way to get to it is to remove the wheel well liner. Given that my truck is on ramps, I couldn't really remove the tire to make it even easier. Removing the wheel liner also makes getting to the valve cover bolts on that side easier, too. I really was tempted to just unbolt the line into the accumulator and let the freon vent to atmosphere, but I felt the struggle was better to do. I did remove the accumulator mount bolts to try to move that out of the way, which helped alot. Also rotated in place the fuel injectors so that the connector side was out of the way (Since I noticed a couple was moved in the video I linked)
You want me to post videos of phaser slop? I tried rotating the phaser and cam with the chain on with my bare hands, and I couldn't. It probably requires more force.
10-17-2019, 02:36 AM
Lifter noise is completely different. Once you've heard the typical chain rattle it's pretty easy to tell the difference. Lifters that are bad or bled down will usually continue to tap for a while in a regular pattern. The usual tensioner failure will let the chains slap for some seconds in a less regular way at startup until they build enough pressure and then quiet down. Up to the point that they're shot and the guides et. al. are done and then you'll get an irregular clacking at the front of the motor that continues beyond startup and you'll know that you're running on borrowed time.
10-17-2019, 10:10 AM
FWIW
On cold starts (first start or after it's been sitting for a while) I'll hold the gas pedal down while starting.
On cold starts (first start or after it's been sitting for a while) I'll hold the gas pedal down while starting.
10-17-2019, 10:15 AM
Senior Member
@SCORGE Why do that? Doing that achieves nothing. (That only worked on carburated engines) There is always pressure in the system, and the fuel pump pressurizes the fuel as soon as you turn the key to run before turning over the engine.
10-17-2019, 10:42 AM
Senior Member
Got one quote for $4050 for timing components with water pump and oil pump... waiting on a few more quotes from smaller shops.
10-17-2019, 10:53 AM
Member
@SCORGE Why do that? Doing that achieves nothing. (That only worked on carburated engines) There is always pressure in the system, and the fuel pump pressurizes the fuel as soon as you turn the key to run before turning over the engine.
The following 2 users liked this post by dukedkt442:
redraiderford (10-17-2019),
SCORGE (10-17-2019)
10-17-2019, 10:54 AM
My thought process was to build oil pressure prior to starting. Maybe lessening chain rattle or slap. Does it work, who knows.
The following 2 users liked this post by SCORGE:
dukedkt442 (10-17-2019),
redraiderford (10-17-2019)