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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

Timing components

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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 10:11 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Lap99xlt
no more cold start chain rattle or hot idle phaser ticking?
Nothing. Just injector noise. Mine never had the start up rattle just the hot tick between 900-1100rpm. After that it was gone. The chain tensioner seals were blown out which staves the phasers of oil






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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 10:21 AM
  #12  
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From: Louisville Kentucky
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Originally Posted by TOPGLOCK
Nothing. Just injector noise. Mine never had the start up rattle just the hot tick between 900-1100rpm. After that it was gone. The chain tensioner seals were blown out which staves the phasers of oil






That's awesome! Hopefully the new tensioners use a better gasket material as a seal.
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 12:10 PM
  #13  
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I want to do my timing so bad. I don't have the confidence to order the parts and do the job. I have suspension and bolt on experience at most. I've never worked on a motor internally. Hope all goes well!

My oil pressure is barely floating at 20-25psi when hot
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 06:19 PM
  #14  
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massart
 
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Mitchel and all data book time is 8-10 hours. I work at an Indy shop and did two so far my second took me 6.5 hours on an 06 5.4 with 101xxx miles. Not a bad job to do just time consuming.
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 07:36 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 04f150lariet
Mitchel and all data book time is 8-10 hours. I work at an Indy shop and did two so far my second took me 6.5 hours on an 06 5.4 with 101xxx miles. Not a bad job to do just time consuming.
That's quick man. Did you discharge the AC to remove the VC's? This was my biggest feat. Wrestling with the VC without messing with the AC. One thing I learned is the VC goes back on a lot easier especially with the bolts pulled out.
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 08:06 PM
  #16  
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massart
 
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I didn't discharge ac at all. The thing I found worked best getting them off was getting as much slack in the wiring harness as possible and getting it over the side or of the way (down by the exhaust manifold so it's not fighting you) and put just a little bend in the dipstick tubes so you got enough clearance. It doesn't take much either and bend it back when you got them back on. Make sure you blow out all around the valve covers after you take the coil packs off to avoid a bunch of debris falling in.
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