After dreading the plug change for the past few years and watching countless you tube videos, I bought the Lisle tool and a set of plugs and decided this was the weekend. I decided to use the impact method. Tried it on cylinder 1 without breaking them loose and soaking them. It came out easily. This method worked for all bit the back 2. They were done by hand after breaking them loose and letting them soak in PB Blaster for a half hour or so. They came out hard but in one piece. Total time was about 2 hours and the other 4 trucks that my friends own will probably go faster. I'll hang on to the Lisle Kit but hope it stays new forever. If you've been dreading this job, it didn't seem as bad as some of the stories have told. My truck only had 85000 miles on the original plugs so higher miles might make it a little more difficult but a friend has used this method and says he's never broken a plug. He's a Senior Master Tech for Ford.

 

Was your engine warm or cold when you removed the plugs?

 

Glad it went well for ya! I too will be using the impact method when I do mine, which will be soon. Have heard nothing but positive things about the impact method. Excluding the negative from those who have not tried it! Lol

 

It was warm. The whole job went smoother than I dreamed except the lost tools. Be careful not to drop any sockets or anything because they fall into a black hole never to be seen again. Lost a socket, an adapter and a pair of needle nose.

 

When I had mine replaced over 100K a senior Ford tech said his method was to have the engine at operating temp and do the BG induction service to it and then remove the plugs. He said he never had one break this way.


I put him to the test and had him do mine for $75.00 minus the plug cost. All 8 were out, unbroken and clean as new. He did mention that if the plug squalls when being turned to keep turning or...... snap! Hand tools only!


I believe 33ftlbs on the removal when applied is sufficient and if more is applied than you may break them. I watched where cracking the plug loose 1/4 turn then spraying a carbon breaking spray in the well and letting it sit for 1 hour is best with a cold engine. Most folks don't want to be patient and wait the hour and wind up snapping the plugs off.


Please remember to blow the wells out (crud) before any work to the plugs and not heavily over applying the carbon spray in the holes. Large amounts that enter the chamber and possibly result in a hydro lock issue after.


A single body plug is now available so the snapping off plug can be avoided. Apply an anti seize compound to the plug bottom but, avoid getting any on the U shaped electrode. A small application of marine grease to the boots and COP electrical plug can also help decrease the moisture issue besides dielectric grease most commonly used.


More food for thought for the folks that are scared straight about doing the plug change out. I only use hand tools and avoid any impacting tools to remove or installation of the plugs. 1/4 turn to break them loose to spray them. An impact gun / wrench can't do that precisely enough. Beware, there!


Always think twice and be careful when pressure washing the engine as this one doesn't like any moisture on the COP areas!

 

I and many others have impacted them out without issue. It's best done on a hot engine and works very well.

 

Hi.

Which plug are you referring to? Motorcraft has no single-piece plugs for the 2004-mid 2008 3V's with the original head design. Even the latest spec'd OEM plug - SP-515 - is a 2-piece design. Do you have info on an even newer plug revision I don't know about? ( Personally, I use Champ 7989's - and new boots are crucial. No need to use anything but silicon dielectric as specified since it is readily available everywhere. I also would not trust the high-voltage breakdown properties of any other compound in this very potent ignition system).

I concur on hand-removal - although 1/4 turn is far too much - all you need is to break the gas seal, so 1/16 turn or less is plenty to allow the PM-2 to wick down where it needs to go, and let it do it's job.

I'd rather take my time, and I do - I'm not doing this for a living - just fer 'free' beers, lol. Have done several trucks with no issues ( but will not touch a truck near, at, or over 100K. ) 60K is the recommendation currently. Stripping soft, hot aluminum threads with power tools is definitely NOT on my bucket list. I just KNOW if I tried that method I'd pekker it up .


MGD

 

I worried about the threads on a warm engine but after talking to several techs they had never seen a problem. Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees F and the alloys they use for heads these days are stronger than that. Unless the engine is very hot you shouldn't have an issue. To each his own though. I'm glad it's behind me and my new plugs have the anti-seize. I was also told by the techs that the anti-seize didn't completely stop the deposits.

 

Hi.

Roger that. But - it does soften as temps rise. However, yer right - I'm probably worrying for nothing, lol.

Yes - I have seen reports of folks breaking on their second (and even third) set of MC SP-5xx plugs, despite the hi-temp nickel anti-seize. That's one reason I tested the waters and switched to 7989's. And also why I advocate more frequent R&R than what most folks would consider 'normal'. Past 60k or so, the gaps on most I've seen is starting to grow anyway, so they're due, IMHO.


MGD

 

Anti seize compound isn't to stop the carbon build up but, to aid in the easy removal when the carbon is on that plug location.


Check out this clip on the 4.6L / 5.4L plug removal. Bon Apetite!