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Remote start and keyless entry install.

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Old 02-16-2013, 09:27 AM
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Default Remote start and keyless entry install.

For Valentines day my girlfriend got me a remote start system with keyless entry. I was looking through the manual and it says the system needs 30 amps from the ignition wire, further research led me to find that I only have 20 from the ignition wire (my repair manual). I figured id try and install it this afternoon so I was wondering could I just hook the system up to a fuse tap for the power? Im pretty good with electrical stuff but I dont want to mess my truck up by hooking up my system wrong. Also for the keyless entry, where is the control unit located in a single cab? Im almost positive my truck has keyless entry but the dealer we got it from didnt have the key fobs. Anyone install a remote start on their XL before? I guess my question is really just about the amps and all for the remote start. Does anyone have any links to their install of keyless/remote start system? If so I would love to see them. Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:52 AM
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you should have a wiring labeling diagram with that remote start system. youll need to hook up to your ignition, accessory and starter wires at the ignition switch. you will need to ground the neutral safety input wire and either hook the hood pin (killswitch) up or leave it unhooked for the system to start properly. you will also need a BYPASS unit to hook to the remote start system for the PATs. otherwise the system will not operate. bypass kits are around $40.

you can purchase one from amazon. i would go with an XPRESSkit. ive used many, they work great and are easily installed.

you can hook the system up to unlock your doors, its normally a 2 wire hook up. pay attention to the output and input requirements though. the system might give out a (-) pulse to the door wires when the wires require a (+) pulse. in that case you will need to have a relay drive the door locks. ive ran into this on an 02 mustang.

make sure you test all your wires with a voltmeter or 12v test light BEFORE hooking up to make sure you have the proper wires at the ignition harness. i would also go to bulldogsecurity.com to get your trucks specific wiring diagram/labeling for the wires you need to hook up to.

i would also recommend not soldering the wires under the dash, some people say to solder the wires but i find it can be a pain in the *** and if the system ever needs or wants to be removed from the truck youll have a bitch of a time getting it undone.

i would get all your wiring diagrams and wires labeled on the remote start system before installing it, would also read the manual through beofore even attempting.



damn good present man! shes a keeper. take your time and get all you need together before you install the system. electrical isnt something you want to screw up.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by CoreyJames View Post
For Valentines day my girlfriend got me a remote start system with keyless entry. I was looking through the manual and it says the system needs 30 amps from the ignition wire, further research led me to find that I only have 20 from the ignition wire (my repair manual). I figured id try and install it this afternoon so I was wondering could I just hook the system up to a fuse tap for the power? Im pretty good with electrical stuff but I dont want to mess my truck up by hooking up my system wrong. Also for the keyless entry, where is the control unit located in a single cab? Im almost positive my truck has keyless entry but the dealer we got it from didnt have the key fobs. Anyone install a remote start on their XL before? I guess my question is really just about the amps and all for the remote start. Does anyone have any links to their install of keyless/remote start system? If so I would love to see them. Thanks.
I just recently did this. All your power needs can be found at the body control module. The likelihood that alarm system would ever draw more than 20 amps is very unlikely. That is a lot of juice.

I personally recommend that you do solder the connections and shrink wrap. This makes it less likely for you to get corrosion in the wires which can cause loss of connections or even unnecessary resistance which could cause wires to heat up and melt. It also looks a little more professional and if you really want to be able to remove the system late you can just cut the wires closely to the main wire and electrical tape the wire up.

Here is a link to the thread I did. I tried to make it a step by step. Its for a viper system, not sure what your brand is.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/viper-5...l-pics-190454/
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Thisguyuknow View Post
I just recently did this. All your power needs can be found at the body control module. The likelihood that alarm system would ever draw more than 20 amps is very unlikely. That is a lot of juice.

I personally recommend that you do solder the connections and shrink wrap. This makes it less likely for you to get corrosion in the wires which can cause loss of connections or even unnecessary resistance which could cause wires to heat up and melt. It also looks a little more professional and if you really want to be able to remove the system late you can just cut the wires closely to the main wire and electrical tape the wire up.

Here is a link to the thread I did. I tried to make it a step by step. Its for a viper system, not sure what your brand is.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/viper-5...l-pics-190454/


check his install out for sure. did a damn good job and like he said, he used everything at the BCM. very clean install.

still disagree with the soldering though. the wiring is inside the cab, thus no water or weather would affect the wiring causing it to corrode. would like to add that i have done multiple installs and havnet soldered a single one. no problems with connection.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:38 AM
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I put one in on an Acura a few weeks back and soldered the connections, only because the guy wanted them soldered and paid extra for it. But on my truck they're not soldered.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:13 PM
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I had a audio shop install mine (Christmas present from the wife!!) and they told me about the 30amp requirement also and Ford ignition only being 20. They ran an extra wire to the battery. I would be leary of "hoping" that it never draws more than 20amps and hooking it up to something not rated for that draw. Just my opinion.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jetchaser View Post
I had a audio shop install mine (Christmas present from the wife!!) and they told me about the 30amp requirement also and Ford ignition only being 20. They ran an extra wire to the battery. I would be leary of "hoping" that it never draws more than 20amps and hooking it up to something not rated for that draw. Just my opinion.
That comment wasn't a "hope" I am confident that the remote system would never draw more that 20 AMPs based on looking at the wiring of both the F150 and the remote system.

That being said, if you install everything at the BCM there is a 30a,20a, 15a, and 10a always hot that you can splice into to piggy back off your power needs and you have access to your lights, horn, locks, door sensors, etc all in one spot.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:12 AM
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Never test with a test light! Use a DVM. I also have done this install. Not to bad. Just take your time.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GrnMachine210 View Post
Never test with a test light! Use a DVM. I also have done this install. Not to bad. Just take your time.
lol test lights work great. i wish i had one. all youre looking for is voltage presence.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Pity7700 View Post

lol test lights work great. i wish i had one. all youre looking for is voltage presence.
Yea but they pull power from the wire. And that wire is more than likely connected to the computer/control module. This can fry the electronics. Rather invest $50 on a DVM than thousands of dollars on a new computer.
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