I have a power rear window and when i hit bumps in the road it starts squeeking. It sounds like a rubber on rubber sound and is annoying as hell. Has anyone experianced it with their trucks?

 

Am still trying to figure out your name, oh well. Have you checked the movement of the window as it moves in its track. Perhaps over or under travel causing it to jar out of position. Lube track with some vaseline, it is used for other things you know!

 

It could be what Bill mentioned or possibly dirt or dust in between the glass and the rubber insulation. My windows squeak when I roll them down because they're dirty and I haven't clean the inside of the rubber.

Just a thought.

 

The thing is i think that my rear window motor is fried because it stoped working.

 

I have heard of alot of people having the problem with the switch not the motor. It will work sometimes and sometimes it won't. I'd say check the switch first. Led's inside the switches for the sunroof and backglass are notorious for going out too.

 

How would I check the switch? It still lights up if that's worth anything?

 

Ive had all these problems. The dealer put in a new motor and switch. Switch works but the window still makes noise. What I do now is close it all the way then give the switch a quick tap to back the window away from the frame slightly. No more noise and still water tight.

 

How much did it cost to get your switch and motor replaced?

 

Do you have a multimeter (volt/amp/ohm)? A cheap one can be bought at Radio Shack, or an automotive parts store. Remove that rear window switch, remove the wire harness plug from it, then set the multi-meter to "ohms" and set the dial to "x 1" scale. Place the black and red probe leads of the meter accross the switch's contacts, and operate the switch. The multimeters needle (or digital readout; depending on how much you spent) will show "0" with the switch on (closed), and a large numbered reading when the switch is off (or opened). Basically, all the window switch does is allow the ground connection to the electric motor to the rear window. Battery is a direct conect to the motor. Switches normally open and close the ground side of an electrical path, as it will not produce an "arc" accross the contacts like the positive side of an electrical connection would do. An arc will eventually "pit" the contacts and cause the switch to fail.

If the switch tests alright, then you could gain access to the electric motor, and use your meter to test for battery and ground to it. Set the meter to DC, and the scale to read 12 volts. If the ignition key needs to be "on" for the rear window to operate, then turn that to "on", then place the black probe of the meter to a good ground, and use the red probe to connect to the positive side of the window motors connection. Operate the switch, and you should see 12 volts at the contact. If you do and the window does not operate, then either the motor is bad, the electrical connection between the switch and motor is bad (can test this with your meter set to ohms), or you have a blown fuse. Check the fuse first. If it is blown, the electric motor may be going bad and drawing too many amps to operate.
Get a good repair manual with the electrical schematic for your year truck. It's not hard to learn to troubleshoot your own electrical problems, and will save you some bucks too.

 

My rear window isn't quite closed and squeaks some when on rough roads as well as allows water in during a car wash. I want to get to the motor...anyone know how!!!