Hi all. I have a 2008 F150 FX2 SuperCrew with roughly with 95k mileage. The truck seems it be a little twitchy and drifts to the right on the highway. Before I take a look. Is there any suggestions what to look for other then the obvious? Any help is always greatly appreciated!
No apparent worn parts. So off to the mechanic I went. The mechanic says it's the rack. Has anyone had this problem with 95k on the truck?

Thanks everyone!

 

tire wear (edges/inner tread)

alignment

 

Worn front suspension components, or the right brake disc brake caliper is dragging.

 

Make sure your tire pressure is correct or at least the same left to right.

 

Alignment

 

X2 with tire pressure to start. Cheap n easy. If that doesn't help, it's definitely alignment... You may have a few chassis parts that need to be replaced.

 

2005 lariat was doing the same thing. I had 180k on my truck so I changed lower ball joint and upper control arms and tie rod ends. Still have to have it aligned and hopefully that will fix my truck pulling to the right and yes the inner tire was worn. Hope this helps.

 

Before you do alignment check the front end for loose parts - or have it checked.
With 95,000 miles, the front end parts may have some wear just depending on how the truck has been driven and maintained.
No sense in doing alignment before you make sure all front end parts are good.
Drifting is normally the result of worn/loose parts.
Struts are beyond due for replacement at your mileage.
There are good tutorials on YouTube for all of the front suspension checks and repairs. You can save many $$$$$ by doing the inspection and work yourself. If you do not have tools, the price of the tools to do the work would be less than the price of labor for a front end rebuild.

 

I bought my parts on line
2 tie rod ends
Upper control arm ( both sides)
2 ball joints
Total price 223.00

I looked up YouTube video and did it myself. Shops were ask Around 700

 

FYI, if you are borrowing a ball joint press from Autozone (possibly Advanced auto as well) you will need a 3/4 to 1in piece of black pipe (or similar heavy wall pipe) that is around 2in in diameter (i.e. just wider than ball joint). The reason is the kit does not have a low enough cup to allow you to put a cup on bottom and a cup on top and fit the tool over the ball joint and control arm. The black pipe will give you the room to let the 1/8in of ball joint to move up and out the top of the control arm in order to install the snap ring.
PS. If you are using MOOG ball joints, the new joints do not install flush to the bottom of the ball joint. Moog uses a much smaller dust boot and the taper on the shaft stops about 1/2in from the boot. If you look closely at them you will see the taper stops and it has about 1/2in of shoulder. In short when you get them installed you will see about 3/16in of ball joint shaft exposed between the top of the spindle and the bottom of the lower control arm.