new guy needs help please
#41
If this links works read this page....a lot of good info and good pictures explaining everything....
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/115
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/115
#42
Unfortunately no codes or cels...I have 33s and an edge programmer and a cat back exhaust...so let's just say it was fairly fast on extreme....but I always had the problem with the timing and what not and since the rattle or what not (what I think was the guide) its such a dog!!! Super slow!!!! I did have one cam phaser break on me which was a check engine light limp mode yadda yadda....so ford dealer fixed that for me and they replaced the vct on that bank with a new smaller hole vct....but didn't do the other side...(I still didn't know all this info yet) but its getting louder and louder so hopefully Monday I start ordering a bunch of parts and I'm gonna attempt to tackle all that on my own in the near future...
#44
You guys get too nervous I've replaced the VCT's myself and the ticking was still there, and it's been doing it since the oil change when i got it at 185k (guy put diesel oil in it i believe to hide it when he sold lol). Now at 200k and still tickin, so i'm gonna just say the old Honda Saying "If it ain't tickin, it ain't lickin"
But if it bothers you that bad, depending on the sound, Livernois lockouts would make it shut up
Also if the lights on, its usually too late.. Dummy lights, and oil pressure light wont come on unless its less than like 5psi of oil pressure lol (It knows when you sling a rod through the block but that's about it)
You could also add a oil pressure guage to it if you rather keep an eye on it that way i did. I still get right at 25 idle when hot, and itll jump up to 80 psi in the matter of a second
Anything lower than 20 psi at idle from what i've read is bad news for the oil pressure, but if thats the case run it till she dies or your chain will just re kill itself.
Also i got my VCT's off of Amazon (like 45 a peice), Dorman is a good brand even if most people disagree, they have been around a long time.
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z09GE4/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to it here!
Just be sure to pull on the VCT when unscrewing it to keep that bolt in it, (OEM should hold but you never know what someone else has done)
The replacement will let the bolt slide through, you can get some pliars and bend it into the screw to catch the end of the threads, then you just feed it down in the hole and hope you find that bitch quick.
But if it bothers you that bad, depending on the sound, Livernois lockouts would make it shut up
Also if the lights on, its usually too late.. Dummy lights, and oil pressure light wont come on unless its less than like 5psi of oil pressure lol (It knows when you sling a rod through the block but that's about it)
You could also add a oil pressure guage to it if you rather keep an eye on it that way i did. I still get right at 25 idle when hot, and itll jump up to 80 psi in the matter of a second
Anything lower than 20 psi at idle from what i've read is bad news for the oil pressure, but if thats the case run it till she dies or your chain will just re kill itself.
Also i got my VCT's off of Amazon (like 45 a peice), Dorman is a good brand even if most people disagree, they have been around a long time.
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z09GE4/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to it here!
Just be sure to pull on the VCT when unscrewing it to keep that bolt in it, (OEM should hold but you never know what someone else has done)
The replacement will let the bolt slide through, you can get some pliars and bend it into the screw to catch the end of the threads, then you just feed it down in the hole and hope you find that bitch quick.
#45
Texas A&M Aggie
Replacing the vcts is a preventative measure if and only if the seals on the tensioners aren't blown yet....using a oil filter that doesn't have the anti drain valve will cause dry starts which before I knew any better I did. That caused a loud "sounds like something is broke and flying around in my fan" noise....that I believe is a lower chain guide (opposite of tensioner) that is prone to breaking by design flaw....there is two bolts that holds the lower guide on and its like a 10mm or something like that and the total lower guide is like 10 or 11 inches long....so a dry start up from the wrong filter and wrong vcts would put slack in the chain which would cause it to slap the guide and tensioner back and forth causing them to wear out or break (guides) and seals to break (tensioners)
To sum it up I wish I would've known to use the right filter and learn about the newer vcts before my truck started making the noise at 45-50k miles. It didn't do it when I bought it at with 27k....so yeah....I admit it...I did the damage myself. !!!!!!!!!!
To sum it up I wish I would've known to use the right filter and learn about the newer vcts before my truck started making the noise at 45-50k miles. It didn't do it when I bought it at with 27k....so yeah....I admit it...I did the damage myself. !!!!!!!!!!
#47
Texas A&M Aggie
Maybe so. Before I order all the expensive stuff I may order the VCT's and pull the valve covers and front cover to see if the guides and everything look fine. If they don't then I'll order everything before putting in the new VCT's. Just wish there was a way to know without pulling everything apart or risking damaging the new parts.
#48
Ya know I was thinking about the vcts again and when they're out you can partially see into the front where the chain and what not is....so maybe just try that first I might actually do that too...
#50
Member
Thread Starter
Can't seem to find an exhaust leak on the manifold and it definitely sounds like it's coming from the motor itself guess I'm gonna order some solenoids, change the oil, and Hope for the best.