new guy needs help please
#32
Member
Thread Starter
i have an edge evolution programer on it too, will that thing tell me whats causing it or do those just read trouble codes when the check engine light is on?
#33
Senior Member
You guys get too nervous I've replaced the VCT's myself and the ticking was still there, and it's been doing it since the oil change when i got it at 185k (guy put diesel oil in it i believe to hide it when he sold lol). Now at 200k and still tickin, so i'm gonna just say the old Honda Saying "If it ain't tickin, it ain't lickin"
But if it bothers you that bad, depending on the sound, Livernois lockouts would make it shut up
Also if the lights on, its usually too late.. Dummy lights, and oil pressure light wont come on unless its less than like 5psi of oil pressure lol (It knows when you sling a rod through the block but that's about it)
You could also add a oil pressure guage to it if you rather keep an eye on it that way i did. I still get right at 25 idle when hot, and itll jump up to 80 psi in the matter of a second
Anything lower than 20 psi at idle from what i've read is bad news for the oil pressure, but if thats the case run it till she dies or your chain will just re kill itself.
Also i got my VCT's off of Amazon (like 45 a peice), Dorman is a good brand even if most people disagree, they have been around a long time.
Link to it here!
Just be sure to pull on the VCT when unscrewing it to keep that bolt in it, (OEM should hold but you never know what someone else has done)
The replacement will let the bolt slide through, you can get some pliars and bend it into the screw to catch the end of the threads, then you just feed it down in the hole and hope you find that bitch quick.
But if it bothers you that bad, depending on the sound, Livernois lockouts would make it shut up
Also if the lights on, its usually too late.. Dummy lights, and oil pressure light wont come on unless its less than like 5psi of oil pressure lol (It knows when you sling a rod through the block but that's about it)
You could also add a oil pressure guage to it if you rather keep an eye on it that way i did. I still get right at 25 idle when hot, and itll jump up to 80 psi in the matter of a second
Anything lower than 20 psi at idle from what i've read is bad news for the oil pressure, but if thats the case run it till she dies or your chain will just re kill itself.
Also i got my VCT's off of Amazon (like 45 a peice), Dorman is a good brand even if most people disagree, they have been around a long time.
Link to it here!
Just be sure to pull on the VCT when unscrewing it to keep that bolt in it, (OEM should hold but you never know what someone else has done)
The replacement will let the bolt slide through, you can get some pliars and bend it into the screw to catch the end of the threads, then you just feed it down in the hole and hope you find that bitch quick.
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 05-02-2014 at 04:28 PM.
#36
Senior Member
He can argue all day, but the 5w20 was used to meet the EPA requirements,
and 5w30 isn't gonna hurt the engine, same weight just a touch thicker at temperature is what the goal was to help the phasers stay lubed up.
As long as you dont see -35 degree's your oil should be fine! I for one do not live in the polar ice caps.
200k on my engine mostly all highway, and that's what they use overseas and they don't have problems lol
People say they run 10w40 in it, but that's got me a little nervous
also with the Motorcraft filter i don't get that bad of a chain rattle on cold start anymore.
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 05-02-2014 at 04:27 PM.
#37
Replacing the vcts is a preventative measure if and only if the seals on the tensioners aren't blown yet....using a oil filter that doesn't have the anti drain valve will cause dry starts which before I knew any better I did. That caused a loud "sounds like something is broke and flying around in my fan" noise....that I believe is a lower chain guide (opposite of tensioner) that is prone to breaking by design flaw....there is two bolts that holds the lower guide on and its like a 10mm or something like that and the total lower guide is like 10 or 11 inches long....so a dry start up from the wrong filter and wrong vcts would put slack in the chain which would cause it to slap the guide and tensioner back and forth causing them to wear out or break (guides) and seals to break (tensioners)
To sum it up I wish I would've known to use the right filter and learn about the newer vcts before my truck started making the noise at 45-50k miles. It didn't do it when I bought it at with 27k....so yeah....I admit it...I did the damage myself. !!!!!!!!!!
To sum it up I wish I would've known to use the right filter and learn about the newer vcts before my truck started making the noise at 45-50k miles. It didn't do it when I bought it at with 27k....so yeah....I admit it...I did the damage myself. !!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by beast150; 05-02-2014 at 05:44 PM.
#39
i checked napa and they only carry there brand... they have the new ones on ebay. I guess ford is the next best bet. i don't have any experiance with any non-motorcraft/ford brand ones but with ford changed the design a few times so i'd have to wonder if they copied the newest design or not. Especial86 has a thread somewhere where he put washer in them with a smaller hole and that with 5w-30 made it go away.
the ticking doesn't necessarily have to be a big deal like Mhowell34 said but to me that's a gamble. i think it's worth the effort and the cost to try the new solenoids and 5w-30 but to each their own.
did you end up looking at your exhaust manifolds? if it's a decent leak from them, the exhaust gases can eat away at the heats.
your edge is able to pull codes that don't throw CEL's
the ticking doesn't necessarily have to be a big deal like Mhowell34 said but to me that's a gamble. i think it's worth the effort and the cost to try the new solenoids and 5w-30 but to each their own.
did you end up looking at your exhaust manifolds? if it's a decent leak from them, the exhaust gases can eat away at the heats.
your edge is able to pull codes that don't throw CEL's
#40
Replacing the vcts is a preventative measure if and only if the seals on the tensioners aren't blown yet....using a oil filter that doesn't have the anti drain valve will cause dry starts which before I knew any better I did. That caused a loud "sounds like something is broke and flying around in my fan" noise....that I believe is a lower chain guide (opposite of tensioner) that is prone to breaking by design flaw....there is only one bolt that holds the lower guide on and its like a 10mm or something like that and the total lower guide is like 10 or 11 inches long....so a dry start up from the wrong filter and wrong vcts would put slack in the chain which would cause it to slap the guide and tensioner back and forth causing them to wear out or break (guides) and seals to break (tensioners)
To sum it up I wish I would've known to use the right filter and learn about the newer vcts before my truck started making the noise at 45-50k miles. It didn't do it when I bought it at with 27k....so yeah....I admit it...I did the damage myself. !!!!!!!!!!
To sum it up I wish I would've known to use the right filter and learn about the newer vcts before my truck started making the noise at 45-50k miles. It didn't do it when I bought it at with 27k....so yeah....I admit it...I did the damage myself. !!!!!!!!!!
^^^ i agree with this! still before I'd drop the coin on a new timing set, I'd try the solenoids.
beast150 did you have a cel or any codes from that? seems pretty likely because that slack can easily change the timing a bit.