need help please
Boy, I doubt the stock alternator can keep 5 batteries charged. I'll assume he has something in the way of a Troyer gas generator running in the bed of that truck!
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); Apr 23, 2012 at 05:07 PM.
The batteries are all charged, its not an issue of low voltage. All the batteries have 0 corrosion on the terminals. It has to be a fuse or one of the relays like bucko said near the front battery. Im not quite sure how the "audio" would be the problem, i have been installing stereos in many different vehicles for years and years. Im also sponsored by some of the best audio companies in the world, i double checked everything audio related i.e. connections, dissconnected each battery and checked them all with 2 different dmm's, all are good. I have also called a few friends who own audio companies and are a legend in the industry, all concluded it has nothing to do with the aftermarket audio.
The only thing that would sound plausible to me would be the wire run from the front battery to the fuse pannel in the passenger kick pannel. If thats all it is then ill just replace the whole wire and go from there. Thanks for the advice everyone, an extra idea or 2 always helps when troubleshooting. As soon as i get home ill check the load on the wires going to the starter and fuse box and go from there.
The only thing that would sound plausible to me would be the wire run from the front battery to the fuse pannel in the passenger kick pannel. If thats all it is then ill just replace the whole wire and go from there. Thanks for the advice everyone, an extra idea or 2 always helps when troubleshooting. As soon as i get home ill check the load on the wires going to the starter and fuse box and go from there.
Lol, the factory altnernator has been sitting in my shop since 2 months after owning the truck. It now has 2 Dc power 290xp amp alternators with a MLA module to bypass the factory regulated voltage. I get over 600 amps of current at 15.5volts, electrical is plenty strong enough. Even with the max load on the vehicle the voltage never drops bellow what is factory regulated to the truck.
You have the oem electrical looped into the aftermarket electrical..?. Are these battery's daisy chained to the factory system???
Do you have an auxiliary relay manifold for the audio and non factory components???
You may have exceeded the factory wiring capabilities and could be arching somewhere.
Does your second alternator have a built in voltage regulator?? Do you have a capacitor at the amps?? I'm assuming you have all these things being an audio competitor...
Do you have an auxiliary relay manifold for the audio and non factory components???
You may have exceeded the factory wiring capabilities and could be arching somewhere.
Does your second alternator have a built in voltage regulator?? Do you have a capacitor at the amps?? I'm assuming you have all these things being an audio competitor...
Last edited by Especial86; Apr 23, 2012 at 04:47 PM.
Let us know what it ends up being...I'm courious. Hope it's just one of the fusible links for you.
By the way, if it is, replace it with another fusible link (purchased from and reputable auto parts store). Don't use a heavy guage wire, as this can overheat, burn, and cause an electrical fire! Sounds like you have a large investment tied up with that truck!
By the way, if it is, replace it with another fusible link (purchased from and reputable auto parts store). Don't use a heavy guage wire, as this can overheat, burn, and cause an electrical fire! Sounds like you have a large investment tied up with that truck!
Lol no capacitor, they are useless in any audio system. The wire between batteries is all 0 gauge wire. Approx 150 feet from the front to the back with multiple anl fuses. All are fine, connections are tight and everything is good. The alternators are regulated by the MLA module i have, all of my batteries are sealed and the factory wiring is all intact minus the run that was there for the factory alternator. That was removed since its only 4 gauge (and too short) to go around the dual alternator bracket. It was upgraded with the 350amp capable (per run) 0 gauge wire to the front battery. If you have a large audio system and know what your doing you dont need capacitors or relays, the only non factory relays i have are for boosting the rem voltage from the headunit to the multiple amps. The audio is not a problem in this situation, it has been in there for years and never had a single problem. This is new and it sounds like it is a problem with the relay on the power wire to the fuse box or something similar.
Let us know what it ends up being...I'm courious. Hope it's just one of the fusible links for you.
By the way, if it is, replace it with another fusible link (purchased from and reputable auto parts store). Don't use a heavy guage wire, as this can overheat, burn, and cause an electrical fire! Sounds like you have a large investment tied up with that truck!
By the way, if it is, replace it with another fusible link (purchased from and reputable auto parts store). Don't use a heavy guage wire, as this can overheat, burn, and cause an electrical fire! Sounds like you have a large investment tied up with that truck!
Your the one ive had the most help from bucko, if it is a fusible link or relay to the fuse box, where would i find the relay? You said next to the factory battery location, but since i wont be home till late it will save some time if i know exactly where to look beforehand.
There is a decent amount of money into the truck, its my baby
but not as much money as you may think, the beauty of being sponsored is i get stuff at cost and even less as long as i promote whatever company it is
Do you get power to the obd2 connect? you could hook up the edge and check for codes, if the ob2 works.
I can tell you went with the "Big 3" approach and then some to car audio. Your problem seems like it could be a number of things, even one of the fresh alternators judging by the clicking of the vod before failure. Since you swapped the battery problems persist, I would focus on the charging system...It may have "spiked" causing some failure somewhere else. Once you find the damage, then you have to trace back to the potential cause.
I can tell you went with the "Big 3" approach and then some to car audio. Your problem seems like it could be a number of things, even one of the fresh alternators judging by the clicking of the vod before failure. Since you swapped the battery problems persist, I would focus on the charging system...It may have "spiked" causing some failure somewhere else. Once you find the damage, then you have to trace back to the potential cause.
Your initial posting was you had juice to your aftermarket audio equipment, but nothing to the factory equipment, Dash, Lights, interior, correct. You need to trace from the factory battery connection to the main power panel and find where your losing the voltage. If youare getting power to head lights and stuff, it is possible that you could have spiked your computer. It sounds as if you have a good amount of electronics / electrical knowledge. Use the same skills / techinques you would troubleshoot a problematic auto systems with just do it on the truck itself. Electircal issues can always be a bear. You have got to start from 1 point and work your way to the end, and usually the easiest start point is where you have voltage that can be traced. FYI, if you think you have a falty relay, remember most of the relays are rthe same in your trucks factory wiring, try swapping them, particularly from no vitals, such as A/C etc.
Obd2 has no power, i already tried that. Both alternators work fine, they are built not to "spike" since i have a small window to play with before something bad can happen. Another reason why i have the MLA module to regulate ontop of the alternators custom internals. The electrical and charging system are both perfectly fine, those can be canceled out as possible issues. Im still gonna go with bucko's idea of checking the line to the fuse box.... if i had to guess i would say thats the problem.



