All, I am new to the forum but have researched this and haven’t had any luck.

Current issue:

Truck starts fine, and drives fine for about 10 - 15 minutes. If I’m light on her I can go for a bit. Haven’t tested how long. If I get hard on her I’m stuck more to the 10 minute timeline. I haven’t actually timed it.

Fuel trims are great at first. However, if I get hard on it, or drive about 65 and over, I go lean on bank 2 and rich on bank 1.

Truck had a lot of repairs from the previous owner, so I got this at a good price.

MAF was bad, but replaced with Motorcraft and its testing good. However, my readings are low when WOT. I don’t recall exactly off the top of my head, but I feel I should be pulling more.

The FPDM was replaced because my fuel pressure was stuck at exactly 40psi with no movement. Now it fluctuates as it should. I also jumped the plug to test the fuel pump and that gives great pressure.

CPS sensors are good.

VVT sensors have been replaced with Ford ones because they were bad. Now that’s running strong.

Previous owner had plugs and coils replaced approximately 5,000 miles ago. I haven’t pulled them yet to inspect.

Oil pain was replaced less than 10,000 miles. It was loose, so I had to tight that.

CATS were checked and good.

O2 sensors were faulty. Not sure if new ones are good, need to double check them. Upstreams.

I replaced the gasket around the intake box since it was missing.

I checked the passenger side fuel rail. I’ll be checking the driver side as soon as I can. No leaks when pulled. Looked solid (yes I know looks don’t mean much). Metered good. With key on they don’t leak or anything. I also have fuel cleaner in there just in case they were gummed up.

While the rail was off on that side I checked that the hose was connected on the back since it’s common for it to come off. It was on and on good. No vacuum hose issues that I could find.

I’m sure I’m missing some stuff I’ve checked. I have been fixing one thing at a time as I find it to rule stuff out.

I have not smoke tested the system yet, but I lean away from that being the issue since it runs great for awhile. Even initial WOT pulls run great. Even initial interstate speeds run fine for the first couple minutes.

I haven’t checked for exhaust leaks yet either.

Only codes I get is sometimes a lean on bank 2. Sometimes a P0340 after driving and fuel trims going crazy.

However, fuel trims are for sure showing lean on bank 2, and rich on bank 1. Almost perfect for the first bit at close to 0. After it suddenly shifts, the idle will jump around. I have the idle raised to 900 to help prevent low oil pressure. When it hunts it will rapidly jump around that (I forget by how much off the top of my head). When fuel trims don’t do this it idles great.

I'm sure I’m missing stuff it’s doing and stuff I’ve done. Ask questions as needed or make suggestions as you see fit.

Thanks everyone.

 

Sorry

2004 F150 5.4l Lariat. Approximately 180,000 miles. Full timing, phasers, etc done less than 10,000 miles ago.

 

"The FPDM was replaced because my fuel pressure was stuck at exactly 40psi with no movement."
The quote above is an interesting statement considering that the fuel pressure under all (except inital pump up) is supposed to be ~40 psi under all conditions.

 

I mean it was stuck exactly at 40. I could go WOT and let off and it would still be at 40 the entire time. No fluctuation. If you look at the tune for these engines it should be higher at WOT since load is up. I don’t recall the exact number off the top of my head. Now it is doing what it should do. Also, the issue was there with the old one as well. I was just eliminating one issue at a time so I didn’t overcompensate and fix five things at once to then figure out I got a bad part but had no idea which one it was, and for many other reasons.

Thanks though. I get what you were asking.

 

Holy parts canon! IMO need to solve one issue at a time. New does not mean good even for OEM parts. Also touching everything makes/breaks other parts. FYI, your idle is very high and should be around 600rpm. That is a HUGE tell tale sign of issues trying to be covered up.

The very first thing I would do is get an OBDII reader, bluetooth, and then pull all the live data including misfire data. The most important pids I would look at first (at idle, operating temp engine, closed loop) are: VCTADV, VCTADVERR, RPM, MAF, SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM, LONG TERM FUEL TRIM, and all O2 sensors. This data should be from both banks using all the sensors.

IMO you exactly described timing issues. The P0340 is set on engine start which says that the cam phaser is not locked at the 0 degree position. The cam phasers should be at 0 degrees below 800 rpm. Since your idle is at 900, that's kind of hard to see but when you stop the engine, they should go back to the locked position which is not happening on one of the banks.

That said, a lean condition on one bank and rich on the other directly relates to timing issues. Make sure timing is working exactly as it is supposed to be before going after fuel/air issues.

The fact that the truck runs okay until after about 10 minutes is that the oil warms up losing oil pressure and is not acting on the cam phasers because of some oil restriction. Just because you've been told that a timing job has been done by someone else does not mean it was done properly with the proper parts as well as all oil passages and oil pan/oil pickup cleaned out ensuring no restrictions.

I said alot, I'm sorry. The very first thing that needs to be done is to look at your live data.

 

No mention of oil condition, oil/filter being used. Idle set way high. Prior owner has done shoddy work, yet their plugs/coils/boots not checked. Fuel issues noted, but haven’t checked whole fuel rail/injectors/orings. running WOT? Agree on prior comment on fpdm.

there is a whole storm of stuff in your post. I’d get to the basics. set it to stock, not run it hard and sort one thing out at a time. Check hot idle oil pressure (at realistic/stock rpm).

 

Ok, I think we have some misunderstandings here. Let me clear some things up.

I have been fixing one thing at a time. No sense in trying to fix everything you see since some things may not be a problem. That’s why I have replaced certain components. They were discovered faulty by looking at the data from several PIDS through my HpTuner software.

The idle was raised by me. It was idling fine at lower rpm.

I haven't finished checking the fueling because there is only so many hours in the day and I dont need this vehicle. It sits and I’m slowly working on it as time is available so my boy can have it when he’s older.

Like above, I just have had time to check timing yet. I plan on doing that and fueling. However, the reason I haven’t yet is because there were other issues that I was tackling.

I would agree with the oil warming up, however, I can shut it off and start it up a minute later and it will be fine. Not always, but more often than not. If it’s not, I just shut it off again and wait a minute and it’s almost always good.

Not sure why the comment on the FPDM. The old one looked original and was verified faulty per the live data. I placed a new one, old looked like it was going to fall apart, and the new one functions like it should.

Im not just throwing parts at something, I’m also not just hot rodding the truck. I use the WOT when all live data is good and using it as a test. It’s barely been done. I’ve been working on cars for awhile, and even tuned some performance cars. Not saying I know it all, that’s why I made this post. Just making sure to get other opinions since sometimes we get narrow focused and lose track of other things. It’s always better to get other people’s opinions and verify it on what you are seeing and thinking.

 

How are you measuring the oil pressure?
I'm thinking you have an oiling and/or a timing issue especially if you have an occasional timing code.


Dropping the oil pan to ensure there is nothing obstructing the pickup screen might be worthwhile.

Observing the vct angles and errors might shed some light as well especially since that's easy to do. The errors should always hover around zero and spike only for a moment at transitions between on/off or off/on the throttle in my observation.

 

ok, but still seems strange to have ignored some of the basics (especially after seeing suspect work of prior owner).

fpdm: nothing wrong with replacing if it looked old (ie preventative). Just didn’t follow/understand the data provided as evidence that it was currently failed/failing.

 

Haven’t ignored basics, just fixing one thing at a time. I can’t help there is a ton wrong haha.

The FPDM was faulty based on live data. When it just shows 40 and never fluctuates anywhere, including at higher loads compared to idle, then it’s not doing its job. This could also be the pump not outputting more, but that was verified by jumpering it and check fuel pressure. Now I see the fluctuations you should see with load.

As for the shot work, I only recently discovered the oil pan. No steady leak, no oil beneath the truck. Got under to inspect things and saw oil all around the pan. Oil was also low, but not burning. So I figured I’d check the bolts on the pan. I also checked the repair history the previous owner had on it since he always brought it to shops. Less than 10,000 miles and when I checked the bolts they were all loose. Used the three step process and they didn’t even pass the second stage.

I plan on checking the other fuel injectors since that’ll be quick and easy. Once I can dedicate a day I will check more in-depth stuff. The problem is I squeeze an hour here and an hour there right now. With other things verified wrong, I fixed those things and checked other things while there.

Just looking for a second opinion on next steps. I am honestly shocked the shops that worked on this missed most of what I’ve found. I guarantee these issues have been there for a bit. Could be mistaken, but I’m afraid I’m not.