Pop’s Truck

Hi all! I’ve browsed f150forum for years but only recently acquired an f150, handed down from my grandfather who recently passed. Thus, this was “Pop’s Truck.” Previous vehicles were a 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ (3 inch lift), 2005 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7, and my current daily, a 2012 Tacoma Regular Cab 4x4. I live in Maine.

Anyways, I thought I’d start out with a question I haven’t seen much info on. The metal power steering line that runs along the top of the steering rack is leaking...well, spraying/misting the bottom of the whole truck in fluid. The shop says you have to replace the whole rack, but I’ve found the lines separately online so I’m calling BS on that. He said something about how it uses a special fitting and you can’t get it out without destroying the rack? I thought it was just threaded, even shaped for a crescent wrench to go around it (octagonal/hexagonal)? Any info is appreciated. Anyone actually replace just the line? It’s a $25 part, compared with the $250+ for the whole steering rack.

Truck is an 07 XLT 5.4 4x4 SuperCab 6.5 Bed

Pop’s Truck

Well, I went ahead and ordered the hose. Gonna use pb blaster and hope for the best! Also ordered a new exhaust head shield (old one rusted through, exhaust was burning the under-cab insulation). Other things on the to-do list are exhaust manifold, fuel filter, possibly fuel pump or module (if that doesn’t fix the misfire in overdrive), IWE hubs and/or actuator (blew up the hubs last winter stuck on ice and shifted into 4x4 with wheels still turning—newb mistake)

Roadblock007

I might have missed it but the year of the truck, engine size, and 4X2 or 4X4 would be helpful info when asking questions. I can't see why you couldn't just change the line but make sure not to strip the nuts.

dukedkt442

I changed out several of my lines over the winter, and can 100% say they can be replaced separately from the rack. IIRC all I used was a flare nut wrench. The most difficult part will be accessing the one that connects to the bottom of the PS pump...you’d be wise to remove the pump. I also installed a filter to the return line when I replaced the pump.

Nothing you do to the fuel system will cure your OD misfire, it is ignition related. Time for new SP546 plugs and boots/springs.

redfishtd

He did state his year and drive, we always look for it up front but he buried it
Truck is an 07 XLT 5.4 4x4 SuperCab 6.5 Bed
There is a you tube video on this fix . Its not easy because of corrosion/clearance.
Ford tech malukoco is really good if you have a ford triton watch all his videos

dukedkt442

Second best mechanic I've every "come across" (and I'm not that narcissistic to consider myself the best); best is my ship's engineer at work.

Pop’s Truck

Hmmm that’s odd. Shop told me it was throwing a fuel pump code and I assumed that’s what the misfire was...I need to get an obd2 scanner

How difficult would this be to do at home? I hear spark plugs on the 5.4 tend to be tricky. I live in an area where rust IS an issue.

dukedkt442

Oh I wouldn’t doubt you also have a rotted fuel pump driver module contributing to a fuel pump code, but 11 times out of 10 when there’s a misfire under light load around 50 mph in OD, it is ignition related. Plugs should be done every 60k miles...so compare that to your mileage.

Difficulty relates to skill level and tool supply. We all do plugs at home. Luckily rust isn’t typically a plug issue, but carbon build up is, snapping plugs. Have the lisle extractor tool handy. Remove the PCM and mounting bracket to get to #3 and 4. There’s more extensive info here on that if you do a quick search.

650NutKase

On the PS line, the reason they say that it requires "special" tools or fittings is bc you really want to use a flare nut wrench on the line fasteners. They are soft metal and if theyre stuck, can round off easily with a regular open end or crescent wrench. Worst case, get some vise grips on there and be done with it

Pop’s Truck

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but the line fasteners are the “nuts” to my untrained eyes, correct? Also it’s funny you mention the vise grips, as I was planning on using them. Only problem is how tight it is space-wise under there! I’m trying to do this without removing the rack at all...is this possible?