When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh I wouldn’t doubt you also have a rotted fuel pump driver module contributing to a fuel pump code, but 11 times out of 10 when there’s a misfire under light load around 50 mph in OD, it is ignition related. Plugs should be done every 60k miles...so compare that to your mileage.
Difficulty relates to skill level and tool supply. We all do plugs at home. Luckily rust isn’t typically a plug issue, but carbon build up is, snapping plugs. Have the lisle extractor tool handy. Remove the PCM and mounting bracket to get to #3 and 4. There’s more extensive info here on that if you do a quick search.
Every 60k? Pshhhh I don’t know if they were ever done at all! 135k miles. My grandfather bought it used so who knows?
@PopsTruck Dukedkt442: Every 60,000 miles is his personal recommendation, which is a good idea. I did mine at 86,000 miles. The furthest I think they should be done is 100,000 miles. BTW, not only will you have to remove the PCM and its bracket, but you'll have to take the battery out of the truck just to get to the two screws (of four) for the bracket, which the battery is in the way of. Because of that fiddling around, it actually took me two hours just to do those to on the right rear. I think it might have taken me about 4 to 6 hours to do the entire job.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Jun 20, 2019 at 04:51 PM.
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but the line fasteners are the “nuts” to my untrained eyes, correct? Also it’s funny you mention the vise grips, as I was planning on using them. Only problem is how tight it is space-wise under there! I’m trying to do this without removing the rack at all...is this possible?
Yes the fasteners are the nuts on the ends of the lines. I would only recommend vise grips to remove the lines, however lol. Use a proper wrench to refit the new ones. And yes, all lines can be removed with the rack in place, just takes some patience.
I think the 60K mileage for plugs is Ford's newest recommendation for spark plug changes...
Bill
That and 60k is usually the threshold after which plugs, even 100k milers, start drastically losing efficiency. Even though the plug may physically fire, the large gap causes premature spring/coil failures. I'm far from the only person with that opinion.
but you'll have to take the battery out of the truck just to get to the two screws for the bracket, which the battery is in the way of. Because of that fiddling around, it actually took me two hours just to do those to on the right rear.
Battery doesn't need to come out, but should be disconnected. PCM/bracket removal takes about 10 minutes at most (it's only 3 plugs and 7 bolts). A "proper" job will definitely take several hours though, especially if you encounter rusted/rounded COP hold-down bolts and have to tap the hole in the head for a larger bolt (if you go that route).
Battery doesn't need to come out, but should be disconnected. PCM/bracket removal takes about 10 minutes at most (it's only 3 plugs and 7 bolts). A "proper" job will definitely take several hours though, especially if you encounter rusted/rounded COP hold-down bolts and have to tap the hole in the head for a larger bolt (if you go that route).
At 135k miles... have the extractor tool nearby.
I had to take the battery out, didn't have a small enough wrench to get into the space between the battery and the bolts on that side.
Thanks for all the responses! The line came in today and I think I’ll be able to access one end of the line, but the part where it attaches to the “distributor block” thingy on the rack and pinion (the box with all the lines coming from it) will be very hard to access...Any easy
way to get to it? The line that I’m replacing is the long one that goes parallel along the top of the steering rack.
I had to take the battery out, didn't have a small enough wrench to get into the space between the battery and the bolts on that side.
I use an cordless impact with an 8” extension and a 10mm socket. No issues.
for removing the line, remove the engine shield and the plastic shield above the crossmember to gain room. Use a flare nut wrench not vice grips, the latter is a hack way of doing it. If you use vice grips you’ll only ever be able to use vice grips as you’ll mar the nut enough to never get a wrench on it.
Consider installing a filter in the low pressure line as youll have drained all the fluid. Fill with Mercon. (Or mercon v I forget which).
Last edited by dukedkt442; Jun 20, 2019 at 11:16 PM.
