Hello. Newer to working on my own truck but I have a 2008 f150 5.4 triton that I’ve been struggling with. I love the truck. It’s got 209K on it. Check engine light came on. Got a P0352 code in which was thought to be the ignition coil (duh) I got all new coils and managed to get them all in. Though I still had codes. Went back to orileys and ran again. And still got the same code (both on B circuit = 2). I went ahead and changed the spark plug as well - even though all the spark plugs were done back in January (I didn’t do coils hence me prompting to do all instead of just the faulty one). Had a friend w/BlueDriver run it and it was B D and E (2,4,5)… I made sure everything was connected. 5 heard an audible clip so I know it wasn’t in. And eventually had no codes! Sweet. Next day (today) went to haul to a horse show and noticed misfires. Pulled over and it looked like coolant on the engine block. Mostly by 2/3. Got it back just a mile up the road. Ran codes. Said 4 injection coil (d)… got a new one and swapped it (I think I broke the original on install bc I manhandled the clip and broke the actual coil housing where it clips)… no codes. Great. Go down to horse show. Coming home. It starts to misfire (I thought) then no engine light and it was fine. But about 15 miles from home it was very clearly misfiring and now check engine light is on. I’m going to run for codes again very soon (waiting for roommate to be home) but now I’m like. What’s the deal.. obviously have to wait and see what it’s reading. And yes I’m going to drop off at a real mechanic tomorrow. But wondering if anyone had any thoughts??? Would it be throwing a different code if it was a different issue? I replaced a couple random things in the process but didn’t want to go for fuel plugs or anything. BlueDriver said it was running great but clearly not. No more coolant anywhere. I tried to make sure everything was securely connected (some of my clips are broken from locking but seeded and not slipping off).. just frustrated by the process. I love this truck. I know it’s got a lot of life left… I was going to do a full transmission fluid change/pan cleanup/filter swap and some other maintenance things before I haul to Montana in a couple weeks. Now I’m really concerned with every bump in the road… any thoughts on what to do next (obviously will update soon w codes I’m getting)… any help is appreciated for this lost veteran (never been a car gal).. my dad was my guy but unfortunately not around to ask now.

 

When you replace the coil packs and spark plugs did you use Motorcraft parts?

I know it sounds like a silly question but F150s like Motorcraft parts the best/

Also when the plugs were changed were the plug boots changed then as well? A lot of people dont change the boots and old boots can cause misfires

 

hi! I know I should use motorcraft. The spark plugs are for sure but the coils are BlueStreak. They convinced me they were an upgrade and that even ford users liked them…. I just ran codes and got C and D again primary ignition codes… at this point I’m thinking strongly that maybe it’s the actual electrical housing? The fact they aren’t locking into place maybe? Slippage? I cleared the codes and snugged everything. Now the check engine light is off … it drained my gas tank though. I was full went maybe 180 miles today and have like a quarter of a tank. Which is pretty excessive.. the only other code is telling me to change the ignition switch (which I need to do the multifunction switch anyways) but I’m still pretty defeated. If it’s just the electrical stuff I’m willing to just pay a mechanic I think.. or just for the piece of mind

 

Post actual code numbers

what code is is it that “tells you to change the ignition switch”??

 

My BlueDriver it gave me a PATS code B1352 ignition key in circuit fault. Says top fixes are replacing the ignition switch and repairing the engine switch wiring harness.

 

I’d put almost zero stock in what blue driver tells you (other than the actual code number, and then google for its definition). The “fixes” that it provides are not A diagnosis, just simply a list of theoretical possibilities.

Is that the only code you left now (if not post actual codes)?

are there currently any drivability condition issues ? If so try to describe them in detail, as well as under what conditions those issues happen or so not happen.

 

ive had decent luck with the accuracy of blue driver. But the ignition I’m not too worried about. That’s a quick fix - and my multifunction switch is toast anyways. I’m more worried about the continuing Ignition Coil codes.

 

based on this thread it kind of appears otherwise. You’ve replaced a bunch of parts yet appear to still be battling same issues.

its hard to tell though, especially without knowing actual codes and current symptoms.

FWIW: for misfires, there isn’t a code that isolates the cause of the misfire. So blue driver can list all it wants as “potential” fixes, but without some testing it/you will only be guessing as to cause and what part to replace (sometimes referred to as “parts cannon” or “shotgunning” approach).

 

Well all the codes for the ignition coils have been accurate. Which is why I was now debating the electrical connection. The first time I should have confirmed the ignition plug was bad but being 200k miles and never doing them, I figured it wouldn’t hurt. But ever sense it’s just all been ignition codes like this one. It’s only been B D and E. The only reoccurring codes have been on B and D. Now it’s showing no codes after I cleared it and ran again. But it’s clearly having some kind of issue to keep popping coil codes. Just not sure where to go next as far as looking for the issue

 

if you have the p035x codes, and you suspect connectors not “clicking” in that is likely or at least potentially the problem (035x) means failure in the curcuit/wiring).

if you don’t have time or parts to solder in new connectors, you should be able to rig up small zip ties to help keep connectors together (not as good as replacement, but better than nothing).

try that, clear your codes, then go on long test drive. Rescan for codes

*** then post up an exact list of the actual codes you currently have (example: p0352, p0355, etc), list then all, and make best attempt to describe any symptoms and under what conditions they do and/or do not occur.

there are some people on here that know this stuff really well, and providing that info will be best way to enable them to help you.