I need some help. I had some HID lights on my truck,both head and fogs then I noticed that one on my balest was making a arching snap sound like a spark plug wire shorting out sound. Then when I was looking for the short, the light turned off then about 5 sec. Later my truck turned off now I can't get my truck engine to turn over and start. I check all fuses in the cab, my batt. Is fully charged. Any ideas please some one help

 

disconnect the wire from the negative terminal on the battery and let the truck sit about 10 minutes before reconnecting.

thats the first thing i would try. it might not be a bad idea to unhook your ballasts at the same time and see if the truck will go back to normal without them.

 

Rick thanks for the reply. I left my truck's battery unplugged while I towed it some. I work about 1. hour away from home I reconnected batt. and still truck will not start. Any other ideas ?

 

CORRECTION:

One of the 3 Fusible links. There are three fusable links in the engine compartment. All three from the battery to the alternator. If any one of these three melt due to overload, the entire battery positive cable (with these three fusable links) must be replaced. These three links protect the alternator. They are basically three individual guage wires that will burn "open" if there is too much amp draw by the alternator.

DISCONNECT THE HID BALLASTS BEFORE REPLACING THE DAMAGED FUSIBLE LINKS! otherwise you'll just burn up the replacement.

I suspect you blew one or more of these fusible links. They are located next to the battery; trace the smaller of the two wires that connect to the battery positive post; you'll see it goes into a black rectangular tube next to the battery, connecting to two other links, then to the alternator. If any of these links are "open" the alternator will not charge the battery. Go to your local parts store and pick up the Chiltons repair manual; if you buy it, it's about $23.00. If you read it there, check the chapter on electricals.

 

Bucko
Thanks for reply , well I bought a book and had my brother check fuses and he ohmed them out and it checked out fine. Any other ideas ?

 

I made a correction to my first post. Go back and read it. Did you ohm out the "fusable links"? I'm not talking about the fuses in the fuse box at the passenger side footwell, nor any extra fuses/relays in the engine compartment. The fusable links are in a plastic rectangular box, next to the battery; they are wires that will burn, simular to a fuse if the alternator gets overloaded (such as the amp draw the alternator may have experienced with your HID balast(s). If you did check these "burnable" wires, and all three are good (not showing open on the ohm meter), then my question would be: is the starter spinning the engine when you turn the key? If it is not, then check fuse 102; this is the ignition switch/starter fuse.

If the starter is spinning, then it's got to be one of the fusable links, as the PCM (powertrain control module, located on the passenger side firewall) gets it's battery from the alternator, via through the fusable links to the positive battery post. The PCM controls various engine vitals (timing, fuel pulse to the injectors, and many more), but it requires 12 volts to operate.

So, does the starter work? If not, double check fuse 102. If the starter is spinning over the engine, but the engine does not "fire", check those fusable links.

 

Bump, due to correction.

 

Bucko I found the 3 fuse link to alt I also checked the fuses 101 and 102 in fact I checked them all. I even tried pushing the fuel pump reset. Also the truck engine won't spin at all everything came on lights and dash. But it won't turn over

 

I'm stumped then. I can only guess then that the starter itself perhaps got fried. Using your multimeter, set it to DC voltage and see if you are getting 12 volts at the starter motor post (red wire) when the ignition key is switched to engage the "start" position. If you see 12 volts, then that wiring is good, and the starter/solinoid is bad. If there is no 12 volts at the starter, then there is an open between the ignition switch and starter motor circuit. I'd have to re-examine my wiring schematics to see what else could be causing an open in this area.

Let me know the results of the test.

Of course be sure the truck is in park, and emergency brake set, as you or your buddy will be underneath the truck checking voltage at the starter.

 

do you have an alarm or remote starter?