Kulstad

I've done a lot of searching these forums over the last few months, and I can't begin to thank everyone enough for all the information you share...I've learned so much from here.

I've also found that many problems, despite the descriptions given, are very similar in nature. For example, my current dilemma.

It started out with this call for help: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/07-scre...00km-h-115168/

I haven't got the money or the time to fiddle-fart around with "best guesses" (I'm guess I'm kinda ****-retentive about that, too ), so I'm trying my best to narrow it down to what it might be.

Based on some suggestions, and a talk with my next-door neighbour (who happens to be a Ford dealership mechanic), I tried this first: Replace the O2 sensors

When that didn't seem to fix anything, I attempted to clean the MAF (based on further suggestions): Codes from my OBDII scanner

That still didn't solve the problem.

I was driving on the highway 2 days ago, and had to pull over 3 times in the space of 20 minutes because I was afraid I would really screw something up. Absolutely no guts to my truck at all, no acceleration, no power, nothing. Lucky for me, I keep my handy Bluetooth OBDII scanner in my glove box. After hooking it up to my truck, and using my Torque application on my Android phone, these are the 2 reports I ended up getting:

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Freeze frame report generated by Torque for Android
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Vehicle VIN: --------------------
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: RXDE4EX.HEX

Freeze frame information:
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Engine Load = 97.647 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 91 °C
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 29.688 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = 29.688 %
Engine RPM = 1,698.75 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 100 km/h
Timing Advance = 14 °
Mass Air Flow Rate = 57.54 g/s
Throttle Position(Manifold) = 32.549 %
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 = 53.125 %
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 = 53.125 %
Fuel Rail Pressure (relative to manifold vacuum) = 5.462 psi
Fuel Level = 52.941 %
Evap System Vapour Pressure = 25 Pa
Barometric pressure = 12.908 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2,Sensor 1) = 833.6 °C
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.169 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 67.843 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio = 0.996
Relative Throttle Position = 20.392 %
Ambient air temp = 15 °C
Absolute Throttle Position B = 55.686 %
Accelerator PedalPosition F = 32.941 %

End of report.


Connected by MOTOBLUR™

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Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
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Vehicle VIN: --------------------
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: RXDE4EX.HEX

Current Fault Log
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ECU reports no current faults

Pending Fault Log
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P0171: System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0191: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

Historic Fault Log
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ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
B1352: null

End of report.


Connected by MOTOBLUR™


Not able to understand 95% of what those reports were telling me (I'm a computer programmer, not a mechanic at all), I handed them off to my neighbour who happens to be a Ford dealership mechanic. He, in turn, took these reports to the Tune-up Specialist at his shop, and his recommendation was to replace the fuel pump and the FPDM.

After doing quite a bit of searching these forums (and other websites...forgive me), I found that there are many many other people having the same issues. This search alone returns 27 entries: Forum Seach: "Fuel Pump Delivery Module"

Now, after having said all this, I am left with a few outstanding questions:

1. I have searched for the FPDM online and have found that the prices vary quite a lot...anywhere from $55 to $120. Is there enough of a difference between manufacturers to justify this crazy price swing?
2. When searching for a fuel pump, I am often asked for a wheelbase measurement. Where would I find this number?
3. Since I will already be inside the gas tank to replace the fuel pump, is there anything else down there I should be looking at replacing? (remember, I'm a computer whiz, but an automotive idiot. "For Dummies" responses only, please)
4. What exactly is a Fuel Rail? Will replacing my fuel pump fix the fuel rail pressure error code I am getting?
5. Is my misfire being caused by my fuel pump issue, or is it a coil/plug issue?

I'm sure there are many other questions that other people may have regarding this issue, but this is my attempt at trying to summarize and combine all of the questions scattered about these forums into one easy-to-find central location (ie: I'm looking to make this a sticky ).

External Resources
During the course of my searching, I have found some very helpful websites. I thought I would share them here (credit where credit is due). If you have any others to add, please feel free to include them here:

• From F150Online: How to replace your Fuel Pump Delivery Module (with pictures)
• Rock Auto - lowest prices I could find for fuel pumps and FPDM's, even with the exchange rate between Canada and the US
• Ford Part Number Lookup - When I was attempting to locate the FPDM at auto part stores here in Calgary, I kept getting quoted prices for fuel pumps. When I explained what and where an FPDM was, I was often met with puzzled looks. Checking the part number on this site (part number 4L3Z-9D370-A) helped bridge that gap (but unfortunately the price). Be sure to have your VIN when you visit this site.

kevhead75

No offense to Ford Mechanics but I don't understand why they would suggest replacing both of those components without doing a little diagnostic work.
You definitely have a fuel issue. 5.4 PSI on the fuel pressure is way low which is most likely causing the other issues. Your fuel trims are way off to, again most likely due to fuel issue. The first thing I would do would be to physically inspect the FPDM on the frame rail above the spare tire. If it is badly corroded or cracked then replace it. Seeing that you are from Canada I would bet a little money that it is corroded. Rock Auto now sells the FPDM from Doorman parts for around $60 US.
If that doesn't solve the problem then yes you may have some issues with the fuel pump. Also make sure the vacuum line is attached to pressure sensor on the drivers side fuel rail.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Replace the FPDM first...very easy and least expensive...prior to getting into the tank...agree with Kevhead.

Kulstad

Just placed my order through Rock Auto for the FPDM. Here's the details:

(using 1.0201 as the US/CDN exchange rate)
Price: $67.11 Cdn
Shipping: $30.31 Cdn
GST/HST: $3.56 Cdn
Total: $100.98 Cdn

For any fellow Canadian out there, the process was incredibly easy. They have payment options that include bank payments from all major Canadian banks (CIBC, Scotiabank, etc) if you don't have/don't want to use a credit card. The site provides you with a form to take to your bank, and it's a simple money transfer (ie: no fees!) to Custom House Ltd (Canadian agent for Rock Auto). Should be here sometime next week.

s_vares

Rock Auto is great and Im 90% sure thats your problem. lol
Based on codes and that super weak fuel pressure reading!
If not, its prob filter/pump (other 10%) lol
Good luck!

old_stang

i replaced fpdm that had failed now there are 2 codes p0191 fuel pressure sensor a circuit range/performance,and p1237 fuel pump secondary circuit. engine running or not, the fuel rail pressure reads 75.4 i am leaning towards a damaged fuel pump when fpdm shorted out in the carwash. oh this happened the day i made the first payment on my new(used) truck any ideas???

Mod (Ret.)

Excellent research!!! Good for you not to just throw parts at a problem; I guess you learned that by replacing the O2 sensors to no avail.

I wrote up some time back that the Ford Explorer/Expedition uses the same FPDM; there was a rash of orders last year and Ford had the F150's on back order. I got ahold of a good parts guy who quickly identified that the Explorer/Expedition used the same. It even had a "boss" on the mounting locations to keep the back off of the frame, which helps in keeping the moister trapped and rotting out the backside.

Kulstad

Just got my order from Rock Auto today. Here's what came in the box:













Gonna try and install these tonight. It's -29C outside right now, so I have to wait until my neighbour gets home so I can use his garage.

Kulstad

Just finished putting the new FPDM in and taking it for a test drive. The installation took about an hour, with the toughest part being the lowering of the spare tire. "So easy, a programmer could do it!"

Here's the pics of the one I took out:




I didn't even bother to clean the back off to see just how corroded it was. It just looked plain ol' nasty, and I had the new part anyway.

Once I had it all replaced, I took it for a test drive on the highway. My truck actually has some guts to it now, but it still stutters/hiccups when I stomp on it. I re-traced my route from a few weeks ago, and she didn't seem to miss a beat, but she really didn't want to be stomped on.

Unless anyone has any other ideas, I think I am going to try replacing the COP on Cylinder 1 (according to the test results in my first post), or my catalytic converters (I'm still convinced they're in need of some attention). Seriously....I'm looking for more ideas to pinpoint the issue(s). Please, for the love god, please help me!

Question: Should I have disconnected my battery for a few minutes before I took it for a run, or is she going to be ok as-is?

picaflor

i wonder if you need to unplugg the battery for a while if you didnt do so to replace the fpdm for the computer to relearn. it cost nothing, just unplugg the battery, turn on the headlights to exhaust power in capacitors, wait 10 minutes and reconnect.