fuel pressure driver module
06-27-2011, 12:20 AM
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fuel pressure driver module
Truck stalled on wed after work in the middle of a busy mall parking lot. Threw the hazards on and tried to start it, nothing.
Popped the hood, found that the oil was overfilled and I figured that it was possible that the PCV valve pumped some oil through the intake fouling sensors causing this no start condition.
Got it started and drove it home and drained the oil and filled it to the proper amount.
Next day the truck was not starting easily, but did start, and the day after I noticed very sluggish and poor performance. Engine was shaking on stop to go acceleration, and transmission was shifting weird due to lack of power issues I suspect.
It was getting worse and I noticed the check engine light on, so I drove it home to disconnect the battery, clear the code and see what happens.
Disconnected the battery and the plugged it back in after about 10 minutes and the truck started then died. Would not start after that.
For a while it was sputtering then stalling, then it would just not do anything other than turn over with the starter.
Pulled out the can of instant start and sprayed it into the intake with the filter removed while the girlfriend cranked it and the truck started and ran until the spray stopped. Got the girlfriend to put the ignition to on while i listed under the gas tank for a pump, and heard nothing. Wasn't getting any fuel!!!
Checked the fuel pump fuse, and it was good, found the pump reset button and found that it had not been tripped.
Borrowed a simple code reader from a friend, but did not find any codes!!! So I was shaking my head, I figured a faulty pump would throw a code... Did some searching and found this nugget of gold
http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...ition-DTC.html
Sure enough when I pulled the rear tire, my module was cracked and exposed through the aluminum housing on the under-left side when I pulled it off. Tons of white calcium deposits that smelled very much like a battery? What the hell is this thing made of? Aluminum does not corrode like that....
Peered inside and the PCB was full of rocks, dirt and a large black scorch mark on the corner, thing stunk like a dried out turd...
Called around to autovalue and canadian tire the next day and no one has even heard of this thing... So I'm off at 7:00am tomorrow to the ford dealer to pick on up, hopefully it's in stock!
Is there anything else I should check or do before I finish this repair?
thanks for your help!
Popped the hood, found that the oil was overfilled and I figured that it was possible that the PCV valve pumped some oil through the intake fouling sensors causing this no start condition.
Got it started and drove it home and drained the oil and filled it to the proper amount.
Next day the truck was not starting easily, but did start, and the day after I noticed very sluggish and poor performance. Engine was shaking on stop to go acceleration, and transmission was shifting weird due to lack of power issues I suspect.
It was getting worse and I noticed the check engine light on, so I drove it home to disconnect the battery, clear the code and see what happens.
Disconnected the battery and the plugged it back in after about 10 minutes and the truck started then died. Would not start after that.
For a while it was sputtering then stalling, then it would just not do anything other than turn over with the starter.
Pulled out the can of instant start and sprayed it into the intake with the filter removed while the girlfriend cranked it and the truck started and ran until the spray stopped. Got the girlfriend to put the ignition to on while i listed under the gas tank for a pump, and heard nothing. Wasn't getting any fuel!!!
Checked the fuel pump fuse, and it was good, found the pump reset button and found that it had not been tripped.
Borrowed a simple code reader from a friend, but did not find any codes!!! So I was shaking my head, I figured a faulty pump would throw a code... Did some searching and found this nugget of gold
http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...ition-DTC.html
Sure enough when I pulled the rear tire, my module was cracked and exposed through the aluminum housing on the under-left side when I pulled it off. Tons of white calcium deposits that smelled very much like a battery? What the hell is this thing made of? Aluminum does not corrode like that....
Peered inside and the PCB was full of rocks, dirt and a large black scorch mark on the corner, thing stunk like a dried out turd...
Called around to autovalue and canadian tire the next day and no one has even heard of this thing... So I'm off at 7:00am tomorrow to the ford dealer to pick on up, hopefully it's in stock!
Is there anything else I should check or do before I finish this repair?
thanks for your help!
06-27-2011, 06:26 AM
#2
Moderator (Ret.)
About a year ago, I posted this thread with the part number for this fuel pump module:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/need-fu...-module-48279/
It includes another unit used by the Ford Expedition that can also be used if the F150 part number is out of stock.
Install a few nylon washers to "space" the module away from the cross frame. It's common for them to corrode, so spacing them away will allow the water, mud, and other junk to drain off. You may need longer bolts, but it's worth it.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/need-fu...-module-48279/
It includes another unit used by the Ford Expedition that can also be used if the F150 part number is out of stock.
Install a few nylon washers to "space" the module away from the cross frame. It's common for them to corrode, so spacing them away will allow the water, mud, and other junk to drain off. You may need longer bolts, but it's worth it.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 06-27-2011 at 06:28 AM.
06-27-2011, 09:55 PM
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I got the part today, thank god...
Installed it after work and mounted it up just as is to make sure that it works, plugged in the connector and then turned the ignition on to prime the system. Couldn't hear the pump from the cockpit, but she fired right up, idled a bit nicer.
A white piece of wiring harness was left in the old unit as it was melted into the old unit's housing! The terminal pins were starting to scorch as well as the PCB on the old unit, word of caution to people who are thinking of checking there's. It doesn't seem that there is a fuse for this circuit, and wires could melt if given the chance. It does look like the PCB in itself is sort of a fuse as it is the weakest link for a short and will melt, but like I mentioned the terminal connectors got hot enough to melt the harness in place so wires could have been next.
Bucko, I did read that thread, that thread is what saved my *** to tell you the truth. If it weren't for that post, I would have not have checked my unit, let alone even known it had existed.
I will take your advice and mount up some nylon washers to keep it away from the frame, I guess that answers my next question of 'does the unit need to be grounded?'.
I smashed my old unit trying to get the white piece of wiring harness out, but in the end I gave up
Oh yea, btw, the part here in Calgary AB Canada was a whopping 166$ from the dealer!! This did not include the mounting kit, which came in together with the unit at 188$. lol, the US always get's the best prices!
Installed it after work and mounted it up just as is to make sure that it works, plugged in the connector and then turned the ignition on to prime the system. Couldn't hear the pump from the cockpit, but she fired right up, idled a bit nicer.
A white piece of wiring harness was left in the old unit as it was melted into the old unit's housing! The terminal pins were starting to scorch as well as the PCB on the old unit, word of caution to people who are thinking of checking there's. It doesn't seem that there is a fuse for this circuit, and wires could melt if given the chance. It does look like the PCB in itself is sort of a fuse as it is the weakest link for a short and will melt, but like I mentioned the terminal connectors got hot enough to melt the harness in place so wires could have been next.
Bucko, I did read that thread, that thread is what saved my *** to tell you the truth. If it weren't for that post, I would have not have checked my unit, let alone even known it had existed.
I will take your advice and mount up some nylon washers to keep it away from the frame, I guess that answers my next question of 'does the unit need to be grounded?'.
I smashed my old unit trying to get the white piece of wiring harness out, but in the end I gave up
Oh yea, btw, the part here in Calgary AB Canada was a whopping 166$ from the dealer!! This did not include the mounting kit, which came in together with the unit at 188$. lol, the US always get's the best prices!
10-01-2016, 03:30 PM
#4
I had a similar issue when my truck died in the car wash. The Ford Mechanic told me the failure is common anytime after 5 years service. The FPDM is located above the spare tire and isn't noticed when crawling under the vehicle. Note to check for casing failure.
10-01-2016, 04:46 PM
#5
Member
Do yourself a favour and use RockAuto from now on
10-02-2016, 08:45 AM
#6
Mark
iTrader: (1)
That's fine if you don't need your truck for 5 days
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pawprint (08-08-2021)
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10-02-2016, 12:38 PM
#8
Mark
iTrader: (1)
If you add $25 for next day shipping it would be about a wash, $57.79 plus next day $25.. $83. $15 more you can get it and install it same day.
Last edited by techrep; 10-02-2016 at 12:45 PM.
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pawprint (08-08-2021)
10-03-2016, 12:39 AM
#9
Member
Yeah that's great for you in the states but it doesn't work like that up here... FPDM is $75 CAD and international priority shipping is $48 dollars to where we are. He's still saving a ton of money by getting it online and getting the part the next day.