I've got mine out right now. Chiltons manual was alright for the basics. If you've ever pulled a motor before, it's not that bad.

I'm currently looking at a few places to get a remanufactured motor;

Fred Jones - Supplies the ford dealers with their remans - $3800 + $800 core

ProMar Engines - $2900 no core charge

Eagle Engines - $2900

and a few other joe blow remanufacturers

 

Nevermind I found the sites. Does Fred-Jones sell to the public? Not seeing anything on the site.

 

Good luck man. Luckily I haven't had the need to remove my engine but me and abuddy did a swap in his f350. And believe me. Removeing a 6.0 powerstroke diesel with out the fancy tools ford has to remove the cab isn't fun.

 

Yea, you have to call and talk to them though. I actually think I'm going to go with a ProMar. It's about a grand cheaper and they pretty much do the exact same thing that fred jones does. They recondition the rods, replace the pistons with OEM.

Both offer worthless warranties, ie, don't cover part failures, only manufacturing problems. So, if a piston melts or rod breaks, they don't cover it, but if they put something in backwords or wrong - they cover it..... and good luck proving that's what caused the problem type of warranty.

 

After all the research i did.....ProMar seems like the best option as well. This out to be fun.

How did you go about pulling your engine?

 

At first, I thought it was the phasers / timing setup so I went about dedressing the front of the engine to open up the timing cover / remove the valve covers. When I saw that wasn't the problem, and saw the the drivers side valve train looked good, I knew there was something on the pass side valve train that had to be scary - since you can't pull that valve cover w/o discharging the AC. Well, I didn't want to discharge the AC, so I left that as a complete system, the motor was pretty much already dedressed, so I pretty much pulled it as a long block.

The only thing on the front was the timing cover and crank pulley, the heads and exhaust manifolds were still on, you'll have to remove the intake completely and I would remove the hood and firewall valance. I broke mine pulling out the motor, but it was already cracked so I knew it had to be replaced.