Good morning, I have a 2006 f150 5.4 3V that I recently had issues with the Cam phasers, chain and belt. I went in and replaced all those items to I clue camshaft sensor and solenoids.
When I was in there I found that the guides were shattered and it was rotated 180 degrees out. I replaced all components and rotated everything exactly 160 turns to get the chain marks lined up exactly.
Replaced spark plugs also. Once I put everything back together, I now have crank but no start. I also sprayed quick start to see if that would work but nothing.
first instinct is fuel pressure, I replaced fuel pump recently, so I don’t think it’s that. I did check the fuel pressure driver module for proper 12V coming in to it and I got 11.85. ( is this voltage acceptable?)
I do hear the fuel pump turn on but it didn’t sound like it shut off the last time I attempted to start.
I need some expert advice on what to check / do now as I am not a mechanic. I know I should check pressure at the fuel rail but I’m unsure of how to exactly do that. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don’t want to take it to a shop and spend thousands of dollars. Just want to get it fixed for my soon to be new driver.

 

Not knowing your procedure you used I will cap the proper thing .
Before taking it apart set it at the timing point is best . Verify all timing points and valve cams on number 1 and 5 . That way you can avoid removing rollers or crashing valves into pistons . Unless you are replacing all rollers ,which is a good thing to do .
It sounds to me you have set the timing wrong no amount of fuel or starting fluid is going to be compressed or fired at the right time . I just hope no damage was done . The final procedure is to turn the engine clockwise by hand 2 revs to prove no piston to valve contact .
I will give you a frequent failure point of the timing replacement -putting the reluctor wheel on backwards on the crank . This will cause no crank signal ,whish you can see by observing tachometer not moving during cranking . Also the crank sensor and its cable is subject to failing internally .




Of course this may not be your problem. There are other tests to find other stuff .

 

I appreciate the information, when i used the exact procedure that you posted. I ensured that everything was lined up properly before putting it back together. Reluctor was put on correctly.when I was rotating the engine, everything rotated smoothly and I did hear a little air come out at one point. I know I’m in over my head but, I’m in this far, I want to see it out. Anyone located in Virginia Beach, willing to lend a hand?

 

try re pluging in crank sensor. mine was loose once, truck would crank but no spark
if you put a splash of fuel down the throttle body and dont get any ignition, the plugs are not even firing, thus the pcm/truck dose not know what position the cranks in, so it doesn't do anything.

 

Ditto checking the crank sensor connection and wiring.
it's most likely something didn't get hooked back up all the way after doing all that work.

 

As previously mentioned try some starting fluid to see if you are getting spark. You were deep into the timing so I am hoping you get some reaction from the starting fluid and we can go from there.
Did you reconnect the flexible ground wire between the cylinder head and the firewall?

 

My guess is that if a ran before, but not after the work, then something was done wrong, or one of the new parts is bad.

I haven't done this work so I don't understand why you: . If it ran before then why would it need such a major change?

 

CliffJ03,

Any update?

jimboy

 

good morning, no update as of yet. Weather hasn’t been on my side the past couple of days. But to answer the 160 turns after putting it back together, it was because it was no properly timed when I took it apart, everything was off and nothing was aligned correctly.

 

If what you mean is that you manually moved the crank 160 times to set the timing points up links and all on the chain . Thats not the way it needs to be done ,it may work but !
The thing to do is to is ignore the links for taking chains off get no 1 cam lobes and no 5 cam lobes like ford says on drawing with the crank dot at six oclock . The phasers should also look like the drawing . It should match if cam lobes are in proper place.
Realize the ratio of the cam phaser gear to the crank gear the crank will turn 1 full time to a half turn on cams , Pistons can only be once at top dead center per revolution . but the secret is the cams determine whether its on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke . So each 4 stroke cycle the crank turns twice, the cams once . The cams determine this so your job at the timing point is to lock each chain in sync with cams to crank . That chosen point uses the cam gear marks with 2 links straddling mark to the crank dot set at six oclock .
One trap to avoid -stop using left and right nomenclature , use passenger side /drivers side. But realize passenger side is equal to right side as viewed by ford from the drivers point of view .
Also avoid turning motor counter clockwise .
You don't have to remove rollers per ford if you take chains off at timing point and don't move crank or cams after that . When you go to put chains on you need another set of hands one person uses ratchet on cam phasor bolt while the other fights the chain on . You will be fighting the valve springs but you only need enough force to move it a half inch or so. The procedure of removing certain rollers stops the spring pressure
so a single person can put chains on .
all that keyway stuff is because its hard to see crank dot . It just confuses most guys. A work mirror makes it easy to see dot .
Try setting it up again, ignore links at timing points ,remove and reinstall chains with the proper links , make sure the 2 links are used on the cam gears . The cams on 1 and 5 verify that you have the cam gears near the proper timing point . I assume you are using new chains that are marked . If not there is a way to mark them .