2004 F150 Lariat Crew. 5.4 - code P0022 (Bank 2)

Ok so here's the deal. Got this code the other day driving home from Lowes. Read it with my scanner. Came on here and found 2 possible causes (NO OTHER CODES). So I decided to replace the VCT solenoids (both) started truck reset code drive about 10 miles (5 highway/5 city) it was fine idle 530 - 600 Pulled in to get gas, as I'm leaving the light comes back on idle gets roughish real time data shows RPM in between 580 - 600. No knock, no tap, has never stalled. Figured if this was a timing chain or guides etc... it would throw another code right ??? Or tap or something???? Any ideas ??? Can I drive it this way ??? More damage ??? Leave me stranded ???? Any help is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. THANK YOU.

 

 

120000

 

Also replaced cam sensor this morning. No change. It needs plugs I've never done them.I just got the truck last year with 116000 on it. But that would throw a misfire code if that was an issue right ???? I also tried Ford Techs trick with unplugging the VCTs to smooth out hot idle but there was no change. Idle still rough through 2 more codes obviously with VCTs unplugged for open bank but they cleared when plugged back in. They are brand new so at least I know they are working.
I also should note this started happening right after an oil change. Less than 5000 miles always Motorcraft filter and 5w-20 Motorcraft. Since I've owned it. Might going to a heavier full synthetic clear it up ???? Dont see how it could be phasers or chain. No Knocking or slapping at cold or hot idle and truck has never stalled. Just seems to have a low RPM now when at lights and stuff and engine runs rough. Trying to relearn fuel trims now. Have disconnected negative terminal and turned on headlights for complete drainage. Will run through new relearn process now since never unplugged batterey during work just cleared codes and tried it again. Let's see what this does.....😐😐😐😐

 

Relearn process didn't do sh**. Code is now pending hasn't popped yet but is still idling rough.

 

Don't be too sure. Your cam position sensors ARE working if you got a P0022 code. The PCM is closest to everything going on at breath taking speed - and there are codes for OPEN(s) SHORT(s) and all kinds of other stuff under the hood. Trust the codes. They are very specific. The absolute meaning of P0022 is that the bank 2 cam was more than five degrees from the angle commanded by the PCM, for more than five seconds. That means the PCM was able to move the cam toward retard (or it 'drifted' toward retard due to insufficient oil pressure) when the PCM wanted that cam more advanced than it was. This condition is also consistent with rough idle when hot.

That code is 'sticky' (once it happens, it sticks). It will clear like your open codes did if the condition does not occur again for two or three drive cycles. (For this reason - I advocate caution / thought before deciding to clear codes too quickly or frequently.)

With 120k miles - I would not be surprised if there were broken chain guides that had made their way to the oil pan and obstructing the oil pump pickup screen. They make their way to the very bottom of the pan - RIGHT underneath the pickup screen and get sucked up when oil thins out.

 

Ok. Thank you I appreciate the response. Now for my next question. Can I drive it like this ??? Obviously not going on 100 mile trips with it but would I screw anything else up doing 10 -15 mile trips with it till I can save up a little more money to get this fixed ????

 

No, chances of driving it some this way resulting in a 'catastrophic' failure are very remote. I would suggest watch for low (drop out) of oil pressure. If guides are broken up and settled in oil pan - when the oil warms up it sucks the crap into the oil pump pickup screen and whips up bubbles in the oil galley system. The rough idle is an annoyance, and at some point it may act bad enough you wonder if you can keep it running. If it's not too bad - it may act fine on occasions. I would try to get it fixed as soon as reasonably possible. Degraded oil pressure places other stresses on cams and roller/followers.

If you do the job yourself (with lots of good help from here) you can do a good, long term, repair job repairing this for $1,500 - $1,800. Don't even think about asking the dealer without at least a fifth of strong whisky under your belt!

 

Would it be advisable to take out the Motorcraft 5w20 I just put in it and go with something heavier and full synthetic ???

 

Would probably push some symptoms off for a while. I'm a strong believer in full synthetic anyway. Have ran Mobil 1 full synthetic the whole 240k miles in mine. I started having some of the same issues (P0022 etc) around 190k and tried 5-30 and 0-40 and even Lucus. But the variable valve system must have very good clean, finely filtered oil and has extremely fine screens in the VCTs and Valve Bodies to catch the smallest of junk from getting to the phasers. Thicker oil makes them operate noticeably sluggish (as observed on live monitoring). But I've used 5w-30 for a while now (exclusively since my phaser job at 212k).