Since I've tired of searching countless threads for answers, I decided to come here for a straight answer. Is there an actual resolution to the P0012 DTC?

I drive an 04 F150 FX4 with 89,000 miles on it. I just had the oil changed in it a week ago. I used 5-30 with Lucas since they were out of 10-30 at the time. I have heard that not using a FoMoCo oil filter can cause problems. I bought the truck with 62,000 miles on it and have ran it with either 5-30 and lucas or 10-30 with lucas depending on season. It has had the phaser rattle since the day I bought it. The oil was changed on a Thursday and driven all weekend with no problems or codes. I go to leave for work Monday morning and the check engine light comes on after the truck gets up to operating temperature. I take it back and scan it and pull this code. Immediately I jump on this forum and look for info. sadly nothing. I baby this truck and need it running.

I have already replaced the 2 cam sensors as a cheap solution. No change. I have a new VCT solenoid ready to go, but I am trying to find out if that will actually make a difference. Im no mechanic but if it was oil related, shouldnt the "dummy gauge" at least move when pressure drops? Ive noted that the sound of the phasers doesn't change when its idling rough. All I really notice is a popping sound in my exhaust since I have duals and a little shudder. The scanner I have says its idling between 580 and 650 rpms in park, not sure what real idle is. This to me seems like a fuel problem. It runs fine until I go to slow down at a light or stop sign. It wont die completely but it will drop to about 400 rpms and shudder. when I give it gas it jumps and hooks up hard. Thats my best description of whats going on. If you want to help, please do, if you want to flame, flame on. Im looking for anything definitive. thanks.

 

That is how mine started... Rough idle, mainly when the truck was at temp, and while slowing down or at a stop. Anyway, that code is for over retarding of the timing. I'm not an expert, I did not stay at a holiday inn express either, but it might be the starts of a cam phaser problem. If it sounds like a Powerstroke, Cummings, or Duramax, when it has these fits, I would lean towards the cam phaser.

Some people have changed the VCT solenoids, both sides, and said it resolved the problem, it is something that I have not tried, really do not want to put out more money on a possible fix.

Now you want flaming, I think my truck is sexually confused, it mainly does that dieseling stuff around sports cars, heavy equipment, or larger trucks. That might get some flames going.

 

That's the kicker, the diesel sound doesn't change. It sounds just like it did on day one. It's always been mild anyways so I wasn't worried about it. I decided this morning to really get down on the pedal and see if anything would happen. Had 0 problems or codes. Drove it like that for 30 minutes or so and then came to a stop light. It dropped down between the 4 and 500 mark and was running rough. Cel came on. I stomp it when the light turns green and it took off like a bat out of hell. I'm noticing no lag or loss of power at all. This is really baffling to me since I can't pinpoint a source of the problem. Again it seems fuel related but I'm no mechanic.

 

By dieseling I mean it sounds like a diesel engine in the truck. I am not referring to the normal ticking that the engine makes, which I believe comes from a lifter/injector. These engines are loud and have "abnormal" sounds to begin with, so it makes it hard to determine if it is a phaser or something else.

If you run the engine to around 1200 RMP does the sound go away? If yes it points to a phaser problem, which may or may not be fixed with a VCT solenoid change on both sides of the engine. I have not made that fix, at this point I am strongly considering dumping a new engine in the truck, sine I was told by the stealership that the engine is toast.

Anyway, mine started with a low idle, then moved to sounding like a diesel while slowing/stopped, and then it just started doing that and dieing. Look you can check oil pressure while the truck is at temp. It could be an oil pump going bad, but I will not swear to it.

To give you an idea of just how far I went with it...


Took it to the stealership, was told phasers were bad, told that the extent of internal damage was unknown ($500 to break the engine down, 1000 to put it back together), and that the engine would likely need to be replaced (66k miles). Refusing to accept this, I changed both CPSs, both CPS pigtails, MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body, new FPDM, new fuel filter, and a new PCV valve. I priced the VCT solenoids, and did not want to put the $400 out on them. So I am back to replacing the phasers, which have been failing for over a year, or dumping a new engine.

For what it is worth, my parents said they thought the truck was starving for gas as well, hence the new fuel filter, and FPDM. It really screwed with my head because everything I threw at it, seemed to help it for a little while.

 

Looks like you've gotten into it worse than I have. I am fortunate enough to have gotten 1 VCR solenoid for less than $100. I just havent had a chance to put it in. I'm gonna run some heavy oil through it first and see what happens. Worst case scenario, it explodes. At least then I'll be able to tell what was causing the problem lol.

 

My own stubbornness to refuse to believe that in the miles I had on the truck that the engine was shot. I cannot tell you what to do, but if you can get the other VCT solenoid for the same price, I would change them both at the same time. No sense in just changing one and having the other one fail a month later.

I enjoyed the part about if the engine explodes you will be able to find out what the problem was. It made my day, but seriously, if you can avoid an engine failure, more so if the warranty is out, you should. Best rebuilt engine price I have found is $2400 to $2500, before install. About $4000 with, which is where I am going, because at this point I really do not know how badly the engine is damaged, because of low oil pressure.

From what I have found/figured out from the many helpful and insightful posts in this forum, that dieseling sound comes from low oil pressure, and given that this has been occurring for over a year, I would rather not pay to fix the phaser only to find it does not help.

Good luck.

 

Seafoam seafoam seafoam

 

What does seafoam have to do with timing? Absolutely nothing. I wouldn't put that garbage in my lawn mower.
Why are using 10-30 oil? The 5.4 requires 5-20 and Lucas oil garbage is not helping anything either.
The p0012 is referring to either over advanced or over retarded timing on one bank. Sorry replying from phone do don't have my dtc book in front of me. It could be an oil pressure issue but I doubt it. If you had timing issues on both banks low oil pressure would make more sense. The p0012 is telling you that timing is off, not a bad sensor. If you thought it was a bad sensor the better thing to do to save money would have been to swap sensors and see if the problem follows. The p0012 could be any number of problems. Being that it is on one side it could be something in the phaser system (cam phaser, solenoid, etc) or possible a stretched chain, broken chain guide or bad chain tensioner.
I would start by putting in the correct weight oil and motorcraft oil filter. If you want to confirm oil pressure install a mechanical gauge with a tee at the original oil pressure sender location behind the oil filter. You can also inspect the VCT solenoids to make sure the screens have not become dislodged. If all of the checks ok might be time to find a good diagnostic person.

Kev

 

I run 10-30 because the truck seems to like it better. When I ran 5-20 I had horrible gas mileage and of course it was louder knocking from the vct system. The truck is payed for so I'm just gonna screw around with it. If I fix it then that's cool. If not well... She's been a good truck. I do run motorcraft oil filters. My scanner says that it's over retarded on bank one. The part I don't get is why it doesn't throw the code all the time. It only does it when operating temp is reached. So it will idle normal until op temp is reached or stop and go normal until then. And as a more recent thing I just unplugged the bank 1 vct solenoid and ran the truck. Idled better than with it plugged in. Any thoughts?

-edit
Just realized that it runs in closed loop until a certain temp is reached, meaning that the PCM runs it at what its programmed to until certain criteria are met like temp. So I will replace both solenoids at the same time and see if that works. Thanks guys.

 

Just replaced both VCR solenoids... The scanner still reads it as being over retarded but I actually gained power after the change.... What's left ? It only throws the code at idle... And there are no problems accelerating or driving until its time I slow down... Anyone else thinking oil pump? Seems like low pressure in the whole system is probably the culprit but that should also make the other side throw a code too... Any ideas appreciated.