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Can phasers

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Old 02-11-2019, 03:32 PM
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I’m going to try to post this because I’ve been reading all over the internet and now I’m not even sure it’s the phasers. Some people are saying something could be loose, the oil is wrong, do an engine flush, it’s the injectors, etc. I’m really good with 2 stroke bikes but cars and trucks are way more than I’m used to dealing with. These are my symptoms:

diesel like ticking
rough idle when sitting, even when cold
noticeably lower mpg
some pedal lag (don’t know if it’s relevant but figured I’d add it)
no codes
Stock oil gauge is reading normal
fuel gauge isn’t working (although my low fuel indicator comes on when I’ve hit empty)

the truck has about 150,xxx miles and oil was changed about 4,xxx miles ago with some 5w20 Castrol gtx high mileage and a motor craft filter. Only work that’s been done on my truck since I bought it 35,xxx miles ago was oil changes, air filter change, and both UCA’s changed.

Could this his be a simple engine flush and oil change to 5w30? Really don’t want to have to bring it into a shop to just charge me for looking at it but I also don’t want to spend the unnecessary money not knowing what the issue could be. Any help would be great.
Old 02-11-2019, 07:49 PM
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To answer your question: no, it can't be a simple engine flush. Fuel gauge is a separate issue.

What it is, is time for a full timing job. Time to buck up $1400 in parts or $3-4k to have a shop do it.
Old 02-11-2019, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by amd241997@gmail.com


i don’t know how long it’s been showing symptoms but I sure as won’t find it in the budget anytime soon to buy parts. What can happen if not replaced now? I’m not putting many miles on the truck rn since it’s winter and my commute to work is only a mile. But once summer hits I’ll be hauling bikes places. Basically is this something I need to do now?
What WILL happen is your engine will eat its timing chain, and you WILL be out the price of a new engine, installed, vs. the price of doing the job.

YES, you need to do it now, or you'll have NO truck to haul your bikes.

Your mile commute isn't helping, but actually is exacerbating the issue. Put some miles on it and get it to operating temp!
Old 02-11-2019, 08:39 PM
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Default You need to know the stock oil gauge is junk

It reads center scale for anything over 7psi . Sad but true ,ford should be shot for that ,to me that's fraud .But anyway you can clean your engine ,its in trouble anyway . An engine flush and several quick cheap oil changes helps . It not going to cure it but it will be cleaner if you go in .for repairs . Oil should be change every 5k or less or 4 months especially if you are doing short cold trips . You are condensing water in oil and not steaming it out on a long run .Super expensive oil is still dirty from carbon from combustion this engine runs cams hydraulically with dirty engine oil .
I believe you are having some misfires ,of course the pcm can't set an cel for every misfire .It has a high threshold compter count to prevent nuisance codes . If you look at mode six on code readers it will show you raw counts(computer counts ) towards setting a cel on each cyl . Such as torque pro /with cheap blue tooth Amazon reader and a android phone under test results . . A very good system cheap .
I do a and engine flush every other oil change and I run 1 quart marvel m oil as a slow cleaner . I'm at 200k now shooting for 300k at least . I run 5w-30 full syn for 5k miles . I live in sunny fl so no crankcase condensation,but in canada that's a serious problem with short trips . If you learn your ride and how to do it you will be far ahead . Trucks take money to keep up if you let it go shes going to go belly up . If you don't do it yourself its going to cost a lot and you better have a good mech friend .
Another first step guys do is change out the vcts for new redesigned ones ,that never hurts and they will still be good even if you have to do more work later . Clean engine first if you can . That used oil is my favorite bonfire starter, burns hot and slow .Not like diesel fuel .The more you work on her the easier it gets . .
Old 02-11-2019, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by redfishtd
It reads center scale for anything over 7psi . Sad but true ,ford should be shot for that ,to me that's fraud .But anyway you can clean your engine ,its in trouble anyway . An engine flush and several quick cheap oil changes helps . It not going to cure it but it will be cleaner if you go in .for repairs . Oil should be change every 5k or less or 4 months especially if you are doing short cold trips . You are condensing water in oil and not steaming it out on a long run .Super expensive oil is still dirty from carbon from combustion this engine runs cams hydraulically with dirty engine oil .
I believe you are having some misfires ,of course the pcm can't set an cel for every misfire .It has a high threshold compter count to prevent nuisance codes . If you look at mode six on code readers it will show you raw counts(computer counts ) towards setting a cel on each cyl . Such as torque pro /with cheap blue tooth Amazon reader and a android phone under test results . . A very good system cheap .
I do a and engine flush every other oil change and I run 1 quart marvel m oil as a slow cleaner . I'm at 200k now shooting for 300k at least . I run 5w-30 full syn for 5k miles . I live in sunny fl so no crankcase condensation,but in canada that's a serious problem with short trips . If you learn your ride and how to do it you will be far ahead . Trucks take money to keep up if you let it go shes going to go belly up . If you don't do it yourself its going to cost a lot and you better have a good mech friend .
Another first step guys do is change out the vcts for new redesigned ones ,that never hurts and they will still be good even if you have to do more work later . Clean engine first if you can . That used oil is my favorite bonfire starter, burns hot and slow .Not like diesel fuel .The more you work on her the easier it gets . .
thank you. You’ve been the biggest help. Going to be taking her in for a full diagnostic at a local shop for $70 and then going from there.
Old 02-12-2019, 02:05 AM
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Default Remanufactured engine is not necessarily $7k installed....

I'm having my '07 done right now..... Engine from Powersource out of Memphis.....3 year 100k "no fault" warranty..... EXACT same engine as Ford remanufactured, AER remanufactures both (almost 2k less than Ford)..... Ford dealer is doing the install.

Engine $2900
Install 1600
​​​

Last edited by Slicefixer; 02-13-2019 at 02:00 AM.
Old 02-12-2019, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Slicefixer
I'm having my '07 done right now..... Engine from Powersource out of Memphis.....3 year 100k "no fault" warranty..... EXACT same engine as Ford remanufactured, AER remanufactures both..... Ford dealer is doing the install.

Engine $2900
Install 1600
​​​
the crappy thing is is that I originally took the loan out for $15000 (bad credit, young kid) and now it’s really only worth about $8000 on a good day. I may just have to cut my loses while I still can, trade in the truck, and jump on the Powerstroke bandwagon. Trucks very sentimental but my finances aren’t seeing it that way. Seems like the costs are just adding up and up. Already lost $7000, really can’t afford to lose more due to wanting over needing to keep the truck. Thanks for the info though.



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