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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

Can phasers

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Old Jan 8, 2019 | 03:20 PM
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Default Can phasers

I’ve got a 2006 5.4 F-150 with about 150,000 on the clock. I’ve been doing a lot of reading on why my engine sounds like a diesel and has a rough idle so I stumbled upon this page https://forbiddendiesel.com/n-10-how...s-failing.html and discovered that my truck matches all the symptoms listed. I also stumbled upon this part for $30 by reading their article https://forbiddendiesel.com/i-234386...e-engines.html

For those of you that have experienced this issues what did you do and how does it perform now? Seems like I may pull the trigger on this part since it’s only $30 and should be something I can do myself. Any info on the subject would be good too as I know there’s a ton of mixed opinions on the subject whether to leave it alone, replace the phaser for a huge price tag, or like me, stumble upon this part and install it. Thanks for the help!
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Old Jan 8, 2019 | 06:56 PM
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That $30 part requires a whole lot of work to put in, more work than replacing your phasers because you have to take the existing phasers apart and put those lock outs in. Then, you have to buy their custom tune which is going to be $500 plus, otherwise your truck isnt going to run correct. I contemplated this before as well, but after my research I don't think it was the best option...
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Old Jan 8, 2019 | 07:05 PM
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Just do a proper timing job
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Old Jan 9, 2019 | 10:53 PM
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^This... Use Motorcraft phasers when re installing. Lockouts aren't as easy or as cheap as they look. You're in there anyways, might as well just replace them with new, updated part numbers from Ford.
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Old Jan 10, 2019 | 02:33 PM
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http://www.modularmotorsportsracing....roducts_id=725


They have a whole timing set and it was the cheapest I could find. All parts I received were OEM from them. The only thing they don't have is the gasket set but you can call them and add it in.
I got my other OEM parts from fordgiant.

Also, NO to LOCKOUTS!
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Old Feb 11, 2019 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 650NutKase
^This... Use Motorcraft phasers when re installing. Lockouts aren't as easy or as cheap as they look. You're in there anyways, might as well just replace them with new, updated part numbers from Ford.
sorry for the late reply, but I’ve also gotten info that replacing the phasers altogether will result in failure again. How much truth is there to this and will the OEM phasers you mentioned cause the problem again or solve it altogether? Also if you could add a link to everything I need because I’m entirely new to this. Thank you.

Last edited by amd241997@gmail.com; Feb 11, 2019 at 03:41 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2019 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by amd241997@gmail.com


sorry for the late reply, but I’ve also gotten info that replacing the phasers altogether will result in failure again. How much truth is there to this and will the OEM phasers you mentioned cause the problem again or solve it altogether? Also if you could add a link to everything I need because I’m entirely new to this. Thank you.
The phasers fail because they are starved for oil from the blown out tensioner seals.

There is only 1 way to fix your problem, and that is with $1400 in FORD parts. If you use aftermarket parts, you'll have failure again within a few miles, and be relegated to the "5.4 is junk" crowd. There's no cheap or quick fix.

Go to youtube and search for "ford tech makuloco 5.4 timing" and he's got a 4 part series on the job, and has listed links to all the parts needed.
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Old Feb 11, 2019 | 10:07 AM
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Default Even if you spend the lockout money there's more

New phaser bolts ,gaskets ,sealant .If you pull phasers from the top you need wedge tools and you better not let it slip. Hopefully it has not already jumped time. Lockout tune kit runs around $700. If pcm fails you may have to pay it again-its a one time tune . Pcm outputs sometimes fail due to shorted plug job or bad injector among other things . It degrades performance of the engine . It does nothing to fix a tensioner seal leaking off the oil pressure. You don't clean the engine or fix broken plastic guides .The pieces of plastic guides which maybe blocking oil pu with many chewed up fibers in screen are still in there . . And yes I would use the old style steel tensioners with no seal to blow out .
What you need is good clean oil pressure of a new unblocked system using a hv oli pump . Chain stretch is coming into play and if guides broken it may be eating into timing cover. Plus your rollers and lashes may be going bad and that requires opening it up and pulling cams, not a terrible job if you get timing cover off . All of these parts have been improved . Its up to you to keep engine clean . If you do the oem job correctly there is no reason for it to fail in the next 150k .
Stop it now before you need a 7k reman job .All this is much cheaper than a new truck financing/cost or even financing a used set of trouble from someone else . Yes I wish it was cheaper But I already wish I was 25 again-- it ain't happening .Don't try short cuts its been done many times ,the labor is time consuming so do it once correctly .Don't use aftermarket phasers .
There is plenty of help here if you diy it .
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Old Feb 11, 2019 | 10:12 AM
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You've been given good, proper, and proven advice. Much what I received and am grateful for.

There are many knowledgeable persons on here who are generous with their time and experience.

If you're mechanically inclined, you'll benefit from virtual step by step instructions. Otherwise, you'll be armed with enough
info to find a competent, independent mechanic to perform the job.

Either way, it'll be worth it.
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Old Feb 11, 2019 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ecobuilder
You've been given good, proper, and proven advice. Much what I received and am grateful for.

There are many knowledgeable persons on here who are generous with their time and experience.

If you're mechanically inclined, you'll benefit from virtual step by step instructions. Otherwise, you'll be armed with enough
info to find a competent, independent mechanic to perform the job.

Either way, it'll be worth it.
i don’t know how long it’s been showing symptoms but I sure as won’t find it in the budget anytime soon to buy parts. What can happen if not replaced now? I’m not putting many miles on the truck rn since it’s winter and my commute to work is only a mile. But once summer hits I’ll be hauling bikes places. Basically is this something I need to do now?
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