My buddy thought he would help me tear down my engine for a head gasket replacement. The cam and phasers were removed and not marked at all. How to replace cam correctly and install new phaser. I am putting new timing chain on with new phasers. Any help is appreciated.

 

Also it's 2005 5.4

 

YouTube: fordtechmakeuloco

 

AllData at your library has the procedure, not to tough really

 

Your issue is that nothing is marked and in a big pile that your "buddy" built from all the removed parts?

Someone else recently asked a question about mixing up cam caps. Besides trying to match up the score marks in the cam caps with the cam, there is no way that I know to find their previous location.

 

Some of you may remember the Contour Mystique line of piles?
They used to flat out seize camshafts and that would seize the motor (when real low on oil)
Car would be worthless and not worth fixing either but...
I / we used to just pull the cam caps and emory cloth the hell out of them and the cam
Reassemble with a new timing belt and go another 50k miles (checking the oil of course)
Yes look closely for witness marks (any)
Worry little about if any are in the wrong spot
007

 

I think if you can't tell from any witness marks you should buy some plastigage and do some experimenting with trying each cap in a different position and making note of how much clearance there is. Takes lots of notes and you should be able to come up with a fairly consistent clearance then install.

 

Cams are different on passenger side/drivers side, different lengths . But the caps are supposed to be marked before you take them off ,same with the rollers , they should go back exactly the same way . However you can put all new rollers on ,which is desirable as the new ones are redesigned to improve oil pressure and point toward roller shaft . My caps were engraved from the factory .
But the caps are going to be hard to match up , you can try to match wear marks . I put all rollers and lashs in place and slowly tighten them down in sequence a little at a time watching the rollers staying in place . I do this at the timing point . Crank dot at six oclock , cams/phasers like the timing drawing . If you don't do this right you will bend a valve . Its torqued to 89 inch pounds , or around 8 foot pounds . Hand oil everything during assembly .





Cam lobes should be like drawing at timing point. Ideally engine should have been at timing point and marked before removing chains to help assembly . Pay attention to crank gear dot don't get confused by all this 11/12 oclock keyway stuff .
I feel you need to view a lot of ford tech malukocos videos. You must fully understand how this timing works .

 

needsmoarturbo His idea of the plastigage has merit . After all you want some clearance without binding ,room for a little oil , supposedly the factory sizes each one to the cam and journal/cap on each spot . They must have a fancy jig of some sort . I wouldnt mind having a video of how they do that quickly .

 

line boring caps /journals in head, adding bearings .
Depending on wear or ability to figure true spots for cam caps .