hey guys when i first got my truck I had an issue with the ABS light coming on at highway speeds and I tried everything to diagnose the problem and had no luck.well, all the sudden it quit doing it and I though it fixed itself until a couple weeks ago it started this again but still ONLY while on the highway.after i slowed to a stop I smelled brakes really hot! so after looking around i noticed my passenger front wheel was hot as hell! and now when i drive around that wheel only will take a notion to smell like brakes and be super hot and smoke coming off the pads/rotor....can an issue with the ABS cause this?? when i put on brakes the truck doesn't jerk to that side at all it's just like normal and I really can't tell that that caliper is dragging or not.....whats going on here guys?? also noticed that recently I have a bad vibration in the truck and seems to TRY to smooth out some at 55 and above MPH. not sure if this is an after effect of this or not but under 55 it makes the bed of the truck shake like theres a bent wheel or something but these are brandnew and the truck is all lined up to.thanks

 

Remove that passenger front wheel, the caliper bolts, and check for easy caliper slide. I suspect the caliper is binding, or the caliper mounting bracket is bent (tough to do, but can happen if you hit a curb hard). Could also be the piston(s) in the caliper are stuck; an indication that they need rebuilding, and a brake fluid flush.

 

I think it is your brake caliper. I had that happen to me changed the caliper and good to go.

 

yeah my thought was the caliper has just failed all together. if I change it I can just bled my brakes the normal way and be fine correct?? theres nothing special I need to do or tools I need with it being ABS correct? thanks

 

As long as you are careful and make sure you do not introduce air into the system it should be simple to change the caliper. I'm not sure about the ABS light you may want to look real close at the wiring near the wheel to make sure nothing melted.

 

Removing the flexable brake line from the caliper to replace it is going to introduce air into the system, and at the very least, that line will need to be bled.

If the brake fluid is 2 years old or older, it should be completely bled out at all 4 wheels. Most automotive stores will rent a brake bleeding tool, or you can buy one. I've used this "mityvac" for years with great success:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FcVi7AodizwAsA

Brake fluid obsorbs moisture, which distroys the caliper pistons and seals, which could be why one (or more) of your calipers has seized; the piston within the caliper cannot move easily within its bore.

 

This might be common sense, but if you suspect the caliper is seizing up, don't just grab that wheel and the caliper if you've just done some driving. That thing will be HOT.

BTW, if you buy a new friction-ready Raybestos caliper from Amazon ($50), it will come with a new bracket, too. That's what's on mine. They work very well and Amazon ships quickly.

 

these pistons use a organic piston, i think its made of soy. its hella fragile. replacements use metal pistons i think.

abs cannot apply the brakes or hold pressure on them. either a stuck caliper piston or a tear on the inside of the rubber brake line acting like a one way check valve.

 

Had the drivers side caliper lock up last Saturday. Driving on the highway I thought I had a flat. Hit the brakes and the front end shook. I got off the highway and took side roads home.
When I got home I pulled the wheel and then waited for everything to cool down.
When I pulled the caliper off one of the pistons was cracked. I assumed it was the cracked piston possibly not retracting.
Went to Advanced Auto and bought a Wearever caliper and bracket and had it changed and bled in about 15 minutes.

BTW, no ABS light came on.