alternator help
normally i wouldnt make a post for a job as simple as an alternator, but my situation is as follows....
3.75 hours into a 4 hour drive my truck started making a pretty loud clicking noise, the abs light came on, and i rolled to a stop. parking brake light came on and upon inspection, my battery was shot. got a deep cycle from my cabin on there, and got it the rest of the way home, but the majority of the time, the voltage was reading anywhere from 12.7-13.9v... with a few spikes up to 16-18v...
so now my questions... since my truck is about 3.75 hours away and im going to have to fully prepare for this job before i go... aka, no... oops, forgot the 10mm socket, gotta run back to the shop for it...
1. sounds like an alternator, yes? is there a regulator, or are they built into the alternator?
2. is their a good write up on the tools i need? or a how to vid? ive done alternators before... get access to alternator, remove a plug, loosen belt, remove 2-3 screws, and then repeat in reverse.
this one looks good:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...nt-w-pics.html
one additional question... can i skip the rad hose removal? if not, what coolant do i need? or is it so little that i can get away with a bit of distilled water?
3.75 hours into a 4 hour drive my truck started making a pretty loud clicking noise, the abs light came on, and i rolled to a stop. parking brake light came on and upon inspection, my battery was shot. got a deep cycle from my cabin on there, and got it the rest of the way home, but the majority of the time, the voltage was reading anywhere from 12.7-13.9v... with a few spikes up to 16-18v...
so now my questions... since my truck is about 3.75 hours away and im going to have to fully prepare for this job before i go... aka, no... oops, forgot the 10mm socket, gotta run back to the shop for it...
1. sounds like an alternator, yes? is there a regulator, or are they built into the alternator?
2. is their a good write up on the tools i need? or a how to vid? ive done alternators before... get access to alternator, remove a plug, loosen belt, remove 2-3 screws, and then repeat in reverse.
this one looks good:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...nt-w-pics.html
one additional question... can i skip the rad hose removal? if not, what coolant do i need? or is it so little that i can get away with a bit of distilled water?
I would not. I would be more apt to role the dice on a new after market, if going for least expensive based on funds as my first choice.
My opinion is to get the remanufactured alternator from O'Reilly with a limited lifetime warranty. I bought one for a 2005 Ford Freestyle and have replaced it once already (within 7 yrs) and the warranty covered it.
Because the alternator is so easy to replace on the F150 I would go this route. Unfortunately on the Ford Freestyle (not freestar) it takes about 4 hrs and having to be a contortionist to get the alternator replaced.
Because the alternator is so easy to replace on the F150 I would go this route. Unfortunately on the Ford Freestyle (not freestar) it takes about 4 hrs and having to be a contortionist to get the alternator replaced.
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I have a mechman high output alternator I would sell cheaply. It is a drop in to the stock unit, a little larger case size. Only reason I no longer need it is the mechman is deeper than the stock alternator so the positive stud grounds out on my whipple intake manifold so I am now using a JS Alternator unit which is denso based and 240? amps or so. I used the mechman when totally stock and also with my roush blower.
Now are you ready for your mind to be blown? Want an OEM fit and larger alternator? Drop in the high output from crown vic. Bolts in 100% perfect, pic the vic for your year. These are 200-220 amp units and run about $200 or so usually.
The replacement of the alternator is pretty easy. You will unhook the neg terminal on the battery. There are 4 bolts that hold a bracket to the top of the alternator and 2 on the bottom. The two on the bottom do not need to be fully removed and should be able to pick the unit up/out and then remove the plug and cable.
Also, skip the parts store totally and just get this one if cost is an issue: This is my spare/backup unit.
Now are you ready for your mind to be blown? Want an OEM fit and larger alternator? Drop in the high output from crown vic. Bolts in 100% perfect, pic the vic for your year. These are 200-220 amp units and run about $200 or so usually.
The replacement of the alternator is pretty easy. You will unhook the neg terminal on the battery. There are 4 bolts that hold a bracket to the top of the alternator and 2 on the bottom. The two on the bottom do not need to be fully removed and should be able to pick the unit up/out and then remove the plug and cable.
Also, skip the parts store totally and just get this one if cost is an issue: This is my spare/backup unit.
My opinion is to get the remanufactured alternator from O'Reilly with a limited lifetime warranty. I bought one for a 2005 Ford Freestyle and have replaced it once already (within 7 yrs) and the warranty covered it.
Because the alternator is so easy to replace on the F150 I would go this route. Unfortunately on the Ford Freestyle (not freestar) it takes about 4 hrs and having to be a contortionist to get the alternator replaced.
Because the alternator is so easy to replace on the F150 I would go this route. Unfortunately on the Ford Freestyle (not freestar) it takes about 4 hrs and having to be a contortionist to get the alternator replaced.
are they like advanced auto though? i tried this with my grand cherokee which would destroy calipers, and figured, ok, ill just get lifetime warranty ones... they replaced them the first time, but then the second time they said, nope... one replacement per warranty.
additionally, im not really looking to get stranded again... im kind of amazed that there was zero warning or idiot light that popped on. just... boom, you're screwed.
I have a mechman high output alternator I would sell cheaply. It is a drop in to the stock unit, a little larger case size. Only reason I no longer need it is the mechman is deeper than the stock alternator so the positive stud grounds out on my whipple intake manifold so I am now using a JS Alternator unit which is denso based and 240? amps or so. I used the mechman when totally stock and also with my roush blower.
Now are you ready for your mind to be blown? Want an OEM fit and larger alternator? Drop in the high output from crown vic. Bolts in 100% perfect, pic the vic for your year. These are 200-220 amp units and run about $200 or so usually.
The replacement of the alternator is pretty easy. You will unhook the neg terminal on the battery. There are 4 bolts that hold a bracket to the top of the alternator and 2 on the bottom. The two on the bottom do not need to be fully removed and should be able to pick the unit up/out and then remove the plug and cable.
Also, skip the parts store totally and just get this one if cost is an issue: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SRRP6S This is my spare/backup unit.
Now are you ready for your mind to be blown? Want an OEM fit and larger alternator? Drop in the high output from crown vic. Bolts in 100% perfect, pic the vic for your year. These are 200-220 amp units and run about $200 or so usually.
The replacement of the alternator is pretty easy. You will unhook the neg terminal on the battery. There are 4 bolts that hold a bracket to the top of the alternator and 2 on the bottom. The two on the bottom do not need to be fully removed and should be able to pick the unit up/out and then remove the plug and cable.
Also, skip the parts store totally and just get this one if cost is an issue: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SRRP6S This is my spare/backup unit.
ouch, that amazon one is a hell of a price, but the reviews look awful.
crown vic one sounds great, but again, i dont really need high output.
thanks again.









