IF you have the harmonic balancer that does not have the bolt holes used to remove it from the block then AutoZone is your friend.

I used their tool loaner program and the tool number is 57139. It is listed as a Chrysler Harmonic puller but it worked perfectly just now to get mine off.

Question, looks like balancer has a gasket which I'll replace. The main bolt holding the balancer on had what looks to be some gasket residue. The hole is goes through also has some what appears to be gasket maker. Anyone know whether the bolt has a non metal washer in addition to the metal one that should be in place? Or do you think someone (at factory) applied a little gasket maker on the fat washer during install?

Gasket maker in the hole?

Says Chrysler, works perfect for Ford balancer as well

Better shot of balancer that works with the Chrysler puller.

 

Yeah I think you are supposed to put a daub of silicone sealant at the keyway when reinstalling

 

Yup, you used the correct tool, they come in handy vs big cheap bulk ones...


as stated, clean it all up & dab of silicone on the keyway slot on the dampner itself.
The bolt apears to be all there.
I wouldnt re-use the bolt.

Put a light film of oil on ourside of front crank seal before installing & light film of grease on inside lip.

If theres a deep grove where the seal rides on the dampner, lightly knock it smooth use scotchbrite pad.

 

Looks like youre going after the timing cover gaskets...
Dap of silcione at all the head T joints, theres 4...
dap of silicone where the bottom of oil pan meets the block, the 2 corners.
& I do the same at the very top corners of the timing cover too, even though im sure it wont matter much.

But a light film of oil of some sort on the waterpump oring before sliding it back in place & be careful as they like to **** sideways & you will role the oring & not know it.

To get the crank pulley back on, sledge hammer....

 

nevermind, youre the guy taking the head off for the kaboom.....

 

noted 🫵

 

great info, 👍 I always use a little grease or oil when reinstalling items with gaskets or in over tight areas. A screwup there can end a project sometimes.

That bolt may be re-used. Depends on the damaged piston site. The engine could be toast so any re-install items will be the ones that came out or low cost items to replace (gaskets, etc.)

 

all good info. (cept the crank pulley, not much slinging room in there 😬 saw some press bolt item while researching but I'm away aways from putting her back together.)
dang power steering pump is the next hassle, plus some sort of feature attaching the trans cooler lines to the front of the timing cover. (Covered in gunk currently, figure it out later &#129488

 

🫵 🤣😂🤣, correct!

 

Ok, got the steering pump off. Had to use a box end through the spines of the pulley to loosen it. Got that one and the back one off from the top using a swivel closed end ratchet. REALLY considering removing the pulley for re-install. Depend on energy level probably.

NOW, the plastic HEAVY duty bracket holding the trans cooler lines and the positive bundle of wires headed to the starter was something else. Got the bolt out and the nut off but the overkilled attachment of the plastic bracket holding those positive cables was unapproachable to release.

After this much energy and time and fight (on everything) I pulled a probably frowned upon move but when you see a light at the end of the tunnel and it happens to be a train unrational decisions can be made. The only thing I could get into that area was my soldering iron. I melted it free (45 minutes of melting).

The cooler lines will still bolt onto the timing cover and on reinstall I'll just ziptie that electrical bundle back

Never had to make a move like this before

Melting away

Bracket cleaned out, can finally access all timing cover bolts.

Had to stop
.

Had to quit, rain coming..