powerstrokeaaron

I am working on a 5.4 for a friend that stalled and wont start. Had timing codes p0340 p0012. I havent pulled the timing cover yet (waiting on my puller) but I pulled the valve covers. Looking at the phasers if I remember correctly the R on the phaser should have the middle of the 3 tangs pointing at it while the L should be on the side with the 2 tangs with the L mark in the middle of the 2 tangs. The driver side of the vehicle has the middle of the 3 tangs pointing at the R and the passenger side has the middle of the 3 tangs pointing at the L. Does it sound like one of the phasers came apart? I will know the condition of the guides tomorrow when I pull the timing cover but I am hoping all it needs is a timing set.

needsmoarturbo

The middle of the three fingers should point to the L regardless of which side you are looking at, but with the engine at the tdc on the compression stroke the L should be showing on the driver's side.

powerstrokeaaron

Looks like the driver side one cam apart, the middle of the three fingers is pointing at the R and the spring is loose. Do you think any valves could have been damaged if the phaser spun 180*?

needsmoarturbo

IF the 3 little pins that hold the timing plate onto the front shear off then that piece could spin 180, but the phaser cannot spin that much unless the bigger pin on the back that engages with the camshaft end breaks off. So if lucky the pin in back is still in tact and the timing wheel has just spun on the front.
The internal hub of the phaser can only move ~30 degrees in relation to the sprocket by design and does so in normal vct operation. The only ways to hit valves are by breaking a chain, breaking the pin on the back of the phaser, or by chains getting off timing by enough teeth.

powerstrokeaaron

Ok thanks for your help.

needsmoarturbo

No problem. The more I think about it the only way for the middle of the three fingers to point at the R is for the timing wheel to have come loose from the phaser. Doesn't mean there couldn't be other things wrong, but the only other explanation for that part would mean shearing off all the vanes inside the phaser and I don't think that's likely.

powerstrokeaaron

I just got the front cover off and it looks to have a recent timing set done. It is a new to him vehicle so no history. I can tell the oil pump is new and all the guides are in tact. I put the crank key at the 12 o clock position and the L and R are both pointing up how they should be and I counted the links and it doesn't appear to have jumped time. It looks like the passengerr side spring came un doneon the phaser for whatever reason and the middle finger is 180 off. They definitely aren't ford phasers so thats probably it. Going to do a complete ford timing kit and hope for the best.

needsmoarturbo

Is the bolt tight on the passenger side? Im curious how this happens even with cheap phasers because if the bolt is properly torqued it seems like the clamp load should keep the little pins from ever shearing off.

CKsBAT

Based on just replacing the phasers on my 5.4,it looks like the front of the phaser is pinned to the body from the bolt, so as stated above, maybe it wasn't torqued to yield and has come loose.

Definitely a good idea to replace everything with Ford parts. Other than the timing and oil pump, these engines are pretty reliable.

redfishtd

According to ford tech malukoco always use the ford chains they are smooth and flat on the outside that wears on plastic guides , After market ones are not flat and smooth .
I think melling hv oil pump and melling steel ratcheting tensioners are preferred .
Try to do an engine flush before timing job , maybe let it sit overnight .
My ford replacement timing parts have made it past 100k mi , I do an engine flush every other oil change . My last oil change was royal purple and 1 quart marvel mystery oil to see if it helps clean , it will still get dumped before 5k . I had tried 1 quart royal before and it seemed to do some cleaning . If I make it past 300k mi I will be happy, I'm at 233k now , I don't think I would do a full timing job again if it fails because it burns too much oil at this point, I think its number five but I don't know if its rings or valve seals . Still runs great, just did a plug job again .